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- #421
Painted.
1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter miker
- Start date
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Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
Your TIG beads look better than mine. Luckily most of my welding is cosmetic and I get to grind it away.
Mike,
Those cuts on the clamp in post #416 almost look like you used a vertical mill - really nice work. Probably no limit to what you could/would do with a mill and lathe.
Nice to see someone else using a hacksaw
I don't know much about TIG (or welding in general for that matter) but those welds look great to me. Looks like you're really making progress with the Diversion
Have you dedicated a grinding wheel of some kind for sharpening the Tungsten? I'm just wondering if the general setup of the TIG stuff has been much of a hassle?
Gus
Those cuts on the clamp in post #416 almost look like you used a vertical mill - really nice work. Probably no limit to what you could/would do with a mill and lathe.
Nice to see someone else using a hacksaw
I don't know much about TIG (or welding in general for that matter) but those welds look great to me. Looks like you're really making progress with the Diversion
Have you dedicated a grinding wheel of some kind for sharpening the Tungsten? I'm just wondering if the general setup of the TIG stuff has been much of a hassle?
Gus
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- Thread starter
- #424
Those cuts on the clamp in post #416 almost look like you used a vertical mill - really nice work. Probably no limit to what you could/would do with a mill and lathe.
Nice to see someone else using a hacksaw
Yep, those were made with a hacksaw. I actually do quite a bit of cutting with a hacksaw. If you have a good frame, and purchase good quality blades (I like Starrett - the yellow ones, 18 TPI) then you can make nice straight cuts, and pretty fast too in 1/8 to 1/4 thick steel which is the majority of what I'm using. The other benefit is it that adds to your days cardio minutes.
At first I was keeping a separate wheel for grinding just the tungston but then I started using whatever was handy and I haven't noticed any issues. When I start working with aluminum, then I'll probably have to be more careful about keeping things separate.
I've heard too that if you want to switch to aluminum with the same tungston, all you need to do is to strike an arc onto some copper for few seconds and let any impurities burn off before starting to weld on aluminum. Haven't welded any aluminum yet so I have no experience with this. I still plan to make the gas tank from aluminum so I will need to learn. I'm using the type of tungston that works for both carbon steel and aluminum so I might give this copper thing a try. The tungstons are not very expensive in the whole scheme of things so having dedicated ones is no big deal either.
The quickest way I've found to grind the tungston and get great results is to chuck the tungston into a battery powered drill. Then use this to spin the tungston, then while its spinning, move it against the grinding wheel. Fast and accurate. Arc from the tungston is nice and predictable.
They told me it is best to grind the tungsten in the direction of the current.
- Thread starter
- #426
yes, that seems to matter and I follow that practice.
We used to reverse the polarity and strike an arch on the table with the tungsten. This would melt the end into a ball for welding aluminum. Lately, I see that folks are moving away from that idea, and going back to sharpened tips. (I've used the battery powered drill trick on a belt sander for years) Some suggest useing pure tungsten instead of thoriated as well.
jC
jC
What does that mean - direction of the current?
[Edit Update:]
Got it - found some really good info on the Miller website in their downloadable TIG book...
http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/TIGhandbook/pdf/TIGBook_Chpt4.pdf
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- Thread starter
- #429
Picked up a set of VDO cockpit gauges. I liked these because they had black faces, white markings, and a red pointer. Basically the same colors as the stock gauges. Decided to make the gauge cluster rather than buying one. Made a couple and then decided on the design pictured below. I had also bought a 2-1/16 inch tach but I could not get it positioned where I thought it looked good in thecluster. I also didn't like the look of 2 large (speedo and tach) 3-3/8" gauges in the cluster vs. a singe speedo in the middle so at this point, there's no tach. I may mount it in the dash to the left, or I may just not have a tach at all.
First pics are of the cluster unpainted.
I first painted it all silver/pewter and then tried black in the raised section and liked the black, so for now, going with this but hey, I may change my mind. This is just rattle can paint with a rattle can clear coat on top. Eventually I'll repaint with some better quality paint but for now, I wanted to see what it would look like.
First pics are of the cluster unpainted.
I first painted it all silver/pewter and then tried black in the raised section and liked the black, so for now, going with this but hey, I may change my mind. This is just rattle can paint with a rattle can clear coat on top. Eventually I'll repaint with some better quality paint but for now, I wanted to see what it would look like.
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- Thread starter
- #430
Painted the raised sention black and the lower section pewter/silver.
- Thread starter
- #431
Connected the steering column to the steering box. Used Borgeson universals and a collapsible sector. Need to cut to length, drill a couple of holes, paint it.
- Thread starter
- #432
Its not much progress over the couple of months, but its something... 
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- Thread starter
- #433
Tool info...
Recently saw these 2" roloc flap discs either here on mud or somewhere else. Can't recall, but anyway, placed an order for some and have now had a chance to use them, both on aluminum and steel. They work great for grinding and smoothing small areas and also for getting into tight places. Like the larger ones, they last much longer than just a flat single sheet disc. I bought them from Lehigh. I'd say they are not the best quality you can get, but so far, happy with the price/performance at $1.45 each. No affiliation, just passing on some info.
2" Mini Flap Disc - Zirconia Roloc
![c682_1[1].webp](https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachments/c682_1-1-webp.581333/ "c682_1[1].webp")
Recently saw these 2" roloc flap discs either here on mud or somewhere else. Can't recall, but anyway, placed an order for some and have now had a chance to use them, both on aluminum and steel. They work great for grinding and smoothing small areas and also for getting into tight places. Like the larger ones, they last much longer than just a flat single sheet disc. I bought them from Lehigh. I'd say they are not the best quality you can get, but so far, happy with the price/performance at $1.45 each. No affiliation, just passing on some info.
2" Mini Flap Disc - Zirconia Roloc
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
Nice, I'll have to ask my supplier about them. I know the 5" ones work great.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Mike, I remember installing my column and steering shaft and actually having steering!! Its just one of many small steps that keep the motivation going!! Great fab skills and someday you will be hangin on the 45 run!!
- Thread starter
- #436
Mike, I remember installing my column and steering shaft and actually having steering!! Its just one of many small steps that keep the motivation going!! Great fab skills and someday you will be hangin on the 45 run!!
Thanks Whitey! And you're absolutely right! I get pretty excited about the small accomplishments. Once I had the seat in and the steering attached, my plan was to sit in the driver's seat, turn the wheel back and forth, and drink a beer.
But, I've been so busy with other things I haven't done it yet, so I need to make time to so that soon.
The ultimate plan is to drive it to the 45 run. Maybe I can make that happen for 2012!
I almost ordered some of those (2" flappers) at one point but decided my anemic air supply/air grinder wouldn't handle them - they seem like a great idea. I feel pretty much the same about Lehigh, maybe not as good as say a Tiger flapper but the price is right.
Your schedule really is tight - it can't take that long for an imaginary ride and a beer?
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- Thread starter
- #438
- Thread starter
- #439
Got some time on the 45 this past weekend. Finished locating everything on the rear axle, then pulled it out from under the truck and finished welding up a few items.
I went a little too crazy on the bracing. I'm not sure I'm going to like the bottom brace so it may be cut off later. For now, keep it as it is.
The tall bracket on the top of the diff is for a torque bar. Played with the triangular type bar/shackle for awhile and didn't like where I would have to locate it so I decided to go with the single bar instead. Simpiler and I've had good luck with this design on my other cruisers. Its tucked up high, no interference with a potential gas tank. Basically same design as Deckers.
Then, started to take it all apart and did a little rattle can primer/paint. Nothing fancy, easy to touch up the inevitable scratches.
A few pictures...
I went a little too crazy on the bracing. I'm not sure I'm going to like the bottom brace so it may be cut off later. For now, keep it as it is.
The tall bracket on the top of the diff is for a torque bar. Played with the triangular type bar/shackle for awhile and didn't like where I would have to locate it so I decided to go with the single bar instead. Simpiler and I've had good luck with this design on my other cruisers. Its tucked up high, no interference with a potential gas tank. Basically same design as Deckers.
Then, started to take it all apart and did a little rattle can primer/paint. Nothing fancy, easy to touch up the inevitable scratches.
A few pictures...
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- Thread starter
- #440
A few more of some painted parts. Bought a blast cabinet awhile back and used it for the first time to prep the smaller parts before paint. Happy with how it works. Used glass bead since most everything I needed to prep had little to no rust.
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