1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project

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Nice job. Those things are really thin, what type of media did your guy use?

Sorry,

I'll let you finish before saying nice welds :D

OooooooKay,

Awesome progress, those parts look great!!

So you may have missed my question above while you were uploading pics..... What media did your guy use on the roof??:D
 
Lol , I gotta learn patience :lol:


Garnet eh? It stayed pretty smooth then, no warpage?
 
OooooooKay,

Awesome progress, those parts look great!!

So you may have missed my question above while you were uploading pics..... What media did your guy use on the roof??:D

Nope, I answered it. He used garnet. Maybe I'm not spelling it right?
 
Lol , I gotta learn patience :lol:


Garnet eh? It stayed pretty smooth then, no warpage?

I asked a lot of questions of him before I let him do it. Especially on the top cap. I was concerned about warpage but he does a lot of car bodys and body parts. I would say it did warp slightly, but it also stiffened up and lost much of the oil can effect. Once I added the brace and bumped out some of the other small dips, it looks pretty good.
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Nope, I answered it. He used garnet. Maybe I'm not spelling it right?

Looks write to me ;)

Good to know. I'll have to see if I can get my roof and doors done with garnet. I am going to blast all my own stuff. We have a company here that has industrial blasting you can use by the hour but I am worried about the thin roof and warping the doors.

Your stuff looks great, you must be stoked.

Apologize for messin' up your progress posting with my impatient replies :cheers:
 
No worries on the posts. My connection is slow tonight so was taking a long time to upload the pictures.

It does feel good to be getting some sealer and surfacer on parts. I've been concerned about having so much bare steel. The weather has warned up so its good painting weather although today was bit cooler. Hopeully, tomorrow will be a bit warmer again.

I also need to get sealer on the bed parts. I might do a few of those tommorrow if things go well.
 
Looking good Mike.

Nice job on that top brace.
 
I feel like all I'm doing is moving parts from one place to the other and then back again :rolleyes:

I need fewer piles of parts.
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I should be able to get some sealer and surfacer on most of the tub within a week.
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Spent a good part of the weekend doing final prep and cleaning on some parts I wanted to get covered in epoxy sealer and surfacer. I got to most of the lower cab. I sill have to inish stripping the outside back wall and outside rear corners.
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I did final prep on the bed sides, front, and floor and then shot them with epoxy sealer. No surfacer yet I just wanted to get them covered to keep rom rusting and then also get the areas covered that will be difficult or impossible to reach once the bed is assembled. Once I have the bed together then I will scuff/sand and then shoot whole bed in epoxy sealer then surfacer. The epoxy sealer I'm using must be top coated in 72 hours or it needs to be scuffed and another coat of sealer before top coating with anything else, again within 72 hours.
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Any updates? Beautiful work!!!

Thanks.

I'll try to get a few pics up this weekend. Been very busy and haven't spent a lot of time in last few weeks on the 45. I did take a few more parts to the blaster and have them back and coated in sealer. Those were the rear upper cab, windshield frame, and bezel. I set those on the cab as well as teh top cap just to get them out of my way.

I picked up an old SBC engine block, cleaned it up a bit, and I've been using it, a 700r4 case, an empty toybox, and a nearly empty t-case to mock up the drivetrain and mounts placement. The drive train turns out to be much longer than I realized so, I'm having to modify the cab floor to accomodate. I didn't think I would have to do this but I'm pretty settled on the drivetrain so I started the mods to the cab so I can get the mounts fabbed up and on the frame.

Again, I'll try to get a few pics up this weekend.
 
Your talent never ceases to amaze me. Friggen awesome. What kind of sealer are you using and this is applied over the primer coat I assume. I am have mine in pieces mostly and am primering each piece but do I need to seal the primer?
 
Your talent never ceases to amaze me. Friggen awesome. What kind of sealer are you using and this is applied over the primer coat I assume. I am have mine in pieces mostly and am primering each piece but do I need to seal the primer?


Thanks Kellyo.

I'm using ShopLine (PPG) Epoxy Primer and Urethane Surfacer. I'm putting the epoxy over the clean bare metal and then the surfacer on top of that. I'll do any body filler on top of the surfacer (after sanding) and then more surfacer and block sanding prior to top coat. Might not be the best way but several folks recommended to do it this way especially with all bare steel.

I think that sealing the primer in your case is not necessary but many will recommend that you do. If its going to sit for any length of time or be exposed to moisture before you get final paint on it then you should consider on putting a sealer on it now. A lot of sealers need to be top coated within a window of time generally hours or a short number of days other wise you need to scuff and potentially even recoat with sealer again prior to topcoating. This is one reason I put the epoxy sealer down first then overcoated with surfacer. It can sit this way for a long time and I will need and want to block sand the surfacer anyway prior to topcoating.

There are many ways to do a paint job that will work well and mine might not be the best way. I'll see how it all works out over time. I plan to stick to all Shopline products except perhaps for the clearcoat which I may step up to a top of the line PPG product.
 
A few pics. The window frame and rear cab wall are in epoxy sealer. The bed still needs to be welded together but I have all the seams and hard to reach places shot with sealer as well.

Mocking up the drivetrain. Had to remove the under cab floor support and will design a new support that allows room for the long drivetrain. Will also have to lenghten the tunnel cover to match the new larger opening.
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