Thanks! I have seen several vendors on the internet selling those shafts. They cost a little over $100.00 with shipping. One of the advantages of twin sticks is the ability to have 2wd low range. Which is usually not available from the OEM’s stock.
I appreciate the links. The pins in the first link only hold the cross bar to the shifting shafts. I’m probably not going to need the pins or the cross bar. I’m 90% sure I will use a twin stick set up.
While I wait, patiently, for my fab guy to get around to the chassis alterations I finally found a stock bench seat. The really great part is that it was less than an hour away and was free! That’s my kind of deal!! For a free seat it wasn’t in horrible condition either. I put a cheap cover on it until I’m ready to have it reupholstered.
As a reminder this is what came with the truck when I bought it. It was an older, probably 70’s, model Chrysler car seat. I have salvaged the headrest units in hopes of transplanting them into the stock bench seat.
While I wait, patiently, for my fab guy to get around to the chassis alterations I finally found a stock bench seat. The really great part is that it was less than an hour away and was free! That’s my kind of deal!! For a free seat it wasn’t in horrible condition either. I put a cheap cover on it until I’m ready to have it reupholstered.
It kind of looks like the ones I bought for my Studebaker through Walmart. They lasted less than one year before the UV light broke it down to the point of fibers blowing everywhere when driving. They were about $25 for the cover, but the only thing I could find in that style.
It’s a Cover King product I bought at O’Reillys. It’s not nearly as good as the last one I purchased decades ago. It’s two pieces that don’t completely cover that big bench seat. It’s also very thin with very few tie downs. It won’t last long but hopefully long enough. There are several offered on various sights on the internet.
My fabricator has finally started working on the frame mods. First he shortened the rear frame horns approximately 2” to center the rear wheel openings. Next came the big cut. Approximately 8” had to be removed between the back of the cab and the rear axel. The big cut is done and just needs to be burned in.
Let’s get this party started! I stripped the front clip off this evening in preparation of removing the drive train. This 94’ Dodge is 95% metric and it’s not JIS!
This was about 2 hours of work this evening
The task is finally finished. That was, without a doubt, the most difficult engine extraction I have ever done! To make a long story short, I had to raise the cab 8” in the front (if you look closely you can see the cement blocks) and inch it out.