It's worth a few minuets to look into it.
Lots of video showing application on the YouTube
GM 1956 GMC gets an upgrade or two!
- Thread starter Michael B
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Lots of video showing application on the YouTube
Stronger and less prone to water getting back in and rusting the seam/joint too!Less distortion too
- Thread starter
- #225
J this will effectively be a butt weld. Will there be enough surface area in this scenario to use the bonding product? Or should I use a lot of tack welds and then apply the bonding product to complete the seam?
For me personally a butt weld on a long seam would be my last choice for controlling warpage, especially if I couldn't get to the back side to metal finish afterwards.
If you've already prepped everything for it to be butt welded you could build a bunch of doubler plates and still bond it together, at the end of the day it would probably be much stronger that way anyway.
Edit to add, you really only need an inch or so of overlap so a 2-in doubler plate would be pretty easy to make
- Thread starter
- #227
A concern with a doubler plate would be that there is no access to apply pressure, ensuring that the patch panel flushes out with the grafting/cut line.
I have used small self tapper screws and came back and filled holes the next day.
Or cleco's and small clamps..
- Thread starter
- #230
@J Mack after taking your advice and evaluating the situation, it just wasn’t possible to use the bonding method you recommended. There simply wasn’t enough area to bond to. I don’t think the pictures show it sufficiently.
- Thread starter
- #231
After weeks of staring and maneuvering the patch around, I started tacking it down. Apparently all 55/56 cabs are not identical. The patch was not a 100% match. Honestly a lot of the issues were probably me and my inexperience. Once I had it tacked on I had a “bulge” on both sides. They also were not “bulging” equally. My resolution was to make a strategic “relief” cut. I think this is going to work well enough.
Don’t laugh too much at my terrible welds. I may be an awful welder, but I’m a terrific grinder
Don’t laugh too much at my terrible welds. I may be an awful welder, but I’m a terrific grinder
- Thread starter
- #232
Finished welding, started grinding. I sure wish I was a better welder!
@J Mack do you have a seam sealer you would recommend?
@J Mack do you have a seam sealer you would recommend?
I like self level for the drip rail..
Dual-Mix™ High-Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer | sealer | SEM Products
Dual-Mix™ High-Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer is a two-component, controlled flow epoxy ideal for use on roof seams, drip rails and trunk seams.
semproducts.com
I use heavy bodied a lot too on weld joints.
Dual-Mix™ Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer | 40377 | SEM Products
Dual-Mix Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer is a high viscosity, two-component epoxy for use on interior or exterior seams, joints and voids.
semproducts.com
If you prefer 3M they are also great and I use the equivalents to both the SEM products also.
if it makes you feel better my alter ego is Rembrandt the grinder!
- Thread starter
- #235
Thank you sir!I like self level for the drip rail..
Dual-Mix™ High-Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer | sealer | SEM Products
Dual-Mix™ High-Build Self Leveling Seam Sealer is a two-component, controlled flow epoxy ideal for use on roof seams, drip rails and trunk seams.
I use heavy bodied a lot too on weld joints.
Dual-Mix™ Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer | 40377 | SEM Products
Dual-Mix Heavy Bodied Seam Sealer is a high viscosity, two-component epoxy for use on interior or exterior seams, joints and voids.
If you prefer 3M they are also great and I use the equivalents to both the SEM products also.
- Thread starter
- #236
I made some progress yesterday. I would have finished the grinding today if it hadn’t been Mother’s Day 
I picked up the pace considerably when set aside the 4” grinder and started using the side angle cutter
I picked up the pace considerably when set aside the 4” grinder and started using the side angle cutter
- Thread starter
- #237
Nothing particularly picture worthy this weekend. I finished grinding the roof skin. I am pleased with the results. Now it’s time for bondo and paint. While I was prepping the roof skin I noticed a small old repair at the top of the drivers a pillar and a shallow dent on the back. It looked like a board or ladder had fallen on the roof. I tapped out most of it while I still had access to both sides of the roof skin.
@J Mack a little more guidance here would be appreciated. It has been a long time since I have worked any bondo. I am not up to date on the latest products or there application. I’m looking for recommendations on which type of filler to use and is it applied to bare metal or primer, or does it even matter? Thanks in advance for your input.
@J Mack a little more guidance here would be appreciated. It has been a long time since I have worked any bondo. I am not up to date on the latest products or there application. I’m looking for recommendations on which type of filler to use and is it applied to bare metal or primer, or does it even matter? Thanks in advance for your input.
I use "3M Platinum Plus Lightweight Body Filler".... They want you to apply it over bare steel that's been ground with rough sanding disc, I've applied it over primer if it's going to be thin in an area that's not near a weld seem or corner that would promote cracking..
Easy to spread and sand...
- Thread starter
- #239
Thanks @J Mack !
- Thread starter
- #240
I started the bondo work today. That 80 grit on a sanding board will wear a fella out.
