1953 Dodge M37 wheeler conversion

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FWIW I would use the og tunnel and modify, mainly because the perimeter bolt holes and shape are done, use that, cut out what is holding it up or interfering with stuff, bolt the thing in and fill in the blanks.
 
There were two on the right of the hump for 4 wheel drive and the winch drive was on the left of the hump. I'm going to use the handles, but they will be on top of the cable driven shift levers that come with the Atlas.
 
Working on the hump. I've never done anything this involved, so I'm keeping it as simple as possible. I wouldn't even attempt this without the plasma table. The top and the bits that mount to the floor are done. I did 4 iterations of one of the sides today, tomorrow morning I'll have made it to 5. Hopefully I'm getting close. After all that, when I looked at shifter locations, it's easier to abandon the cable shifters and just put them where they'd naturally shift on the atlas. First time it's come out so nice.

The sides will be welded to the floor bits with fold over tabs on top. the top will be bolted to the sides and the firewall. there's a little ledger on the back. If everything works out, there will be a cupholder up against the seat box and that big flat forward of the gear shift will be a thing that holds other things.

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Okay, made an extension to the top of the transmission hump for the shifters, made the sides, the driver's side was in 4 parts and pretty complicated.

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Passenger side, one piece


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Driver's side, 4 pieces

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Okay, the heavens have parted and I have title and registration!!!

A friend came over with parts for the M37, and he knocked something lose in my mind. I had been worried that, although I had a VIN, I could not get a replacement title. That person reminded me that DMV records didn't go that far back, you just signed an affidavit and you were go to go. So I called DMV and the woman looked up the VIN and said there was no record. So, I went down to DMV last week with my bill of sale - and lo and behold (and $238) I had some paperwork and I'll I needed was VIN verification. Well, this morning a drug the EV down to the DMV, waited half an hour for someone to come out and verify the VIN. Almost went wrong when she refused to climb on the trailer to look at the VIN tag on the dash. but after going inside, it was decided that I could take a picture of it and show the picture to her. She didn't care the piece of the frame was just tacked on, or the piece on the dash was just bolted on.

I went back inside and waited and hour and ... a very nice lady gave me registration, tags and plates. Ye haw! I've been sweating this for months. Don't have to register in Montana (although it will be cheaper) and don't have to get CARB approval or go to CHP. Yippee!!!

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I finally got air/nitrogen in the ORI's. they charge $500 for the hose and adapters to fill the thing. Not worth it. No regulator and I immediately spun the gauge. Anyway. you put 100 lbs in the bottoms to set a minimum firmness, then till the tops to set height. Finally, at ride height, it looks weird.

Tomorrow I'm pulling it out as the EJ45 needs to get on the lift. Monday I'm taking it to the exhaust shop to get shop. I got new starter and replacement header in and it's all good. Love it when things work out. Thanks @cruisermatt



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Mea Culpa
 
meh, although he did say the 62 is at yer place all by itself ? take it to Rubithon ?
 
It is sitting here, but its leaving any day.
 
Okay, got a new Hurst style shift stub for the Tremec and fabricated a little adapter out of some 3/4" rod and the old gear shift is in place. I love how funky it is.

Went through the trouble of bench bleeding the master cylinder, but it was fine. So, bled all four corners again and made some progress.

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So, a thoughtful post.

I've been struck about how the tools I have shape my solutions. The plasma table has totally changed how to look at an entire range of problems. I could not have done the transmission hump without it.

But, the little adapter for the shifter was a mess. And I realized - after - that if I had a lathe and a Bridgeport it would have been totally different and fit nicely But, I don't have a lathe and a Bridgeport (or really a place for them to live). So, I live with grinder and cut-off wheel and it's ugly and not elegant, but it works.

Just like my inability to weld aluminum (well). I just spent a day working on the the back of the EV doing a lot of drilling and tapping because I can't TIG aluminum. I've tried. I need real lessons. I have the welder, I've tried, but for now I'm drilling and tapping. Some day ....
 
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So, a thoughtful post.

I've been struck about how the tools I have shape my solutions. The plasma table has totally changed how to look at an entire range of problems. I could not have done the transmission hump without it.

But, the little adapter for the shifter was a mess. And I realized - after - that if I had a lathe and a Bridgeport it would have been totally different and fit nicely But, I don't have a lathe and a Bridgeport (or really a place for them to live). So, I live with grinder and cut-off wheel and it's ugly and not elegant, but it works.

Just like my inability to weld aluminum (well). I just spent a day working on the the back of the EV doing a lot of drilling and tapping because I can't TIG aluminum. I've tried. I need real lessons. I have the welder, I've tried, but for now I'm drilling and tapping. Some day ....


I think you're exactly right. The way I design parts has continuously evolved as my shop's capabilities evolve.

I like to look at parts an individual or small business made and try to tell what stage of evolution they're in.

I have a good size machine shop. It took awhile to be proficient at what I do and put all the hard infrastructure together. I enjoy helping friends with their projects. Making cool stuff is why I do what I do. If they're up to bring a sixer, BS and help make the setups and clean up afterwards it works out pretty good. If you throw me a part and ask "How much to fix this?" My time is worth more than you can go buy another Nordic Track or Brush Hog for.

So what I'm saying is if you don't have room for a nice Bridgeport and Lathe or a decade to become proficient at using them, you might befriend someone who does have those things. Maybe they need some plasma work and you can help each other out.

What kind of TIG welder do you have? I'm pretty OK TIG welding aluminum. I bought a 180 Miller new about 25 years ago. It worked, but I figured out after awhile it was way undersize for most of what I was trying to do. I upgraded to an old 250 Syncrowave. Great welder. But I did pop the breaker more than a few times with it. I did some horse trading with a good friend of mine that also owns a machine shop and ended up with a 350 Syncrowave. It's 30 years old, but it'll weld on an aluminum battleship if I need to. I weld aluminum production in the 1/8" to 1/4" thick with it and it does an awesome job.

I have some family that has tried those multiprocess TIG/MIG/Plaz machines and they couldn't TIG weld aluminum for beans with them even though the machine's said they could do AC TIG. I set them up on a basic old transformer TIG machine with a real pedal and they were rocking right along in no time. That's why I ask what kind of TIG setup you have.

EDIT: Oh, forgot to mention the bane of many a first time aluminum TIG welder is clear anodizing. Make sure whatever you are trying to weld has had the anodizing removed from both the weld area and where you are grounding it.

A skilled welder friend of mine brought a swingarm over he couldn't get to weld. He thought his TIG welder died. He did a great job prepping the weld area, but forgot to strip the ano off where his ground clamp was. We had a good laugh and he saved a lot of money not buying a new TIG machine.
 
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It sucks the timing didn’t work out when I was there earlier this month, I know with just an hour so of some experienced instruction I could have you sticking stuff together. There definitely is a jump to get over if you don’t have some experienced advice right there while you are trying.
 
Okay, the M37 is off to get exhaust. I put the final floorboard back in and, of course, the clutch stopped working and I had to pull the pedal out and drill a new hole in addition to adjusting the rod. But, I was able to load it on the trailer.

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Also, although I keep shoving it back, the serpentine belt is not tracking on the harmonic balancer. Do I have to pull it all the way off and then put it back on. I just assumed there'd be be a stop in there to locate it.

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Either your power steering pump or the tensioner are not lined up right.
 
Put straight edge on crank pulley and up to tensioner if it needs to go back toward block you can remove tensioner, mill material off bosses reinstall, adjustments to power steering pully should just be some thin washers to move back a hair.
 
So, the second cross member I put in is in the way of the radiator.

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So, I put the original crossmember back in, in a different location.

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And now the radiator is in with some modifications.

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And here's a glamour shot of this bad boy.


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I think I could have gotten a long piston on the steering ram, I still am not close to hitting anything either direction with the 8" ram.
 

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