whitey45
SILVER Star
Cant do a hybrid joint from 1350 to 1480, so a yoke swap is the quick and easy. 1480 is overkill, you want a weak link somewhere and a u joint is easier to change than an axle!! How is that 5 spd!
1953 Dodge M37 wheeler conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter workingdog
- Start date
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workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #182
The 5 speed is very nice. Haven't even gotten into 4th yet, but it's lovely.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Sure wish they would do a 32 spline output for my atlas!
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #184
You can change the Atlas.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #185
Okay, been a while since I've done an update. Been cleaning up a lot of details and it's been very, very time consuming.
I got the Camaro 5th gen PWM fan to work. It's awesome. It pulls a huge amount of air at full power, but it only spins as fast as you need it too based on temp. The Terminator controls it. Had to move the radiator (and the forward most cross member) forward 3 times to get it all to fit..
Got the front yoke swapped out for a 1350 (had to buy 2, didn't realize there was a strap version. Front driveline is in and four wheel drive is working.
I thought there was a problem with the squareness of the rear axle. Had a friend come over and spent a few hours setting up a center line and measuring the rear axle. It was way out. but a 4 link makes it easier to bring back to center.
Tore the right front fender off again (major PITA) to do some trimming for wiring clearance and reroute the terminator harness and other stuff. Can see how the fan fits from here. This was one of those quickie jobs that took 5 hours.
I got the Camaro 5th gen PWM fan to work. It's awesome. It pulls a huge amount of air at full power, but it only spins as fast as you need it too based on temp. The Terminator controls it. Had to move the radiator (and the forward most cross member) forward 3 times to get it all to fit..
Got the front yoke swapped out for a 1350 (had to buy 2, didn't realize there was a strap version. Front driveline is in and four wheel drive is working.
I thought there was a problem with the squareness of the rear axle. Had a friend come over and spent a few hours setting up a center line and measuring the rear axle. It was way out. but a 4 link makes it easier to bring back to center.
Tore the right front fender off again (major PITA) to do some trimming for wiring clearance and reroute the terminator harness and other stuff. Can see how the fan fits from here. This was one of those quickie jobs that took 5 hours.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #186
With the drive train mostly functional, it was time to get the bed on. It took a bit of work, to get it into the shop and the wheel wells removed to accommodate the rear hoops, but I was finally to set it down and ... my math to figure out the gas tank height was all wrong.
So, I had to change the gas tank mounting brackets to lower the tank a couple of inches to get some clearance.
Eventually I'm going to have to roll some 18 guage to make new wheel wells, but the clearance for full stuff looks close to okay.
So, I had to change the gas tank mounting brackets to lower the tank a couple of inches to get some clearance.
Eventually I'm going to have to roll some 18 guage to make new wheel wells, but the clearance for full stuff looks close to okay.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #187
Also, the rebuilt winch arrived Tuesday - been close to a year waiting for it.
Needs some paint and, once again, the front cross member is in the way.
And, there needs to be space for the drive shaft and warn replacement motor. So, the needs to be an entirely new front cross member that goes under and acts as a mount for the winch motor.
Needs some paint and, once again, the front cross member is in the way.
And, there needs to be space for the drive shaft and warn replacement motor. So, the needs to be an entirely new front cross member that goes under and acts as a mount for the winch motor.
The closer you get to the finish, the slower it goes. Looking good. Gonna be BADDASS.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #189
Okay, gas tank is in and final. That took a lot of iterations to get it high enough for the filler neck to clear the frame rail and low enough to clear the bed.
And now I have this lip where the wheel well is going to attach. They are some of the worst rust on the truck and I'm trying to figure out how to clean them up so I can POR 15 them and get the new/wider wheel well back on. Suggestions. Very hard to get wire wheel in there, but it's all I can think of.
And now I have this lip where the wheel well is going to attach. They are some of the worst rust on the truck and I'm trying to figure out how to clean them up so I can POR 15 them and get the new/wider wheel well back on. Suggestions. Very hard to get wire wheel in there, but it's all I can think of.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #190
This will be kind of a mish-mash post. I’ve been. Working through finishing the gas tank fuller neck and starting on the winch.
The filler neck was a massive PITA. I spent a day trying to get the filler neck hooked up getting around the frame rail, including raising the bed 1” - and failed.
So, I gave up and notched the frame for the filler neck.
Have’t filled the tank yet to test, but I’m hopefully.
Also got center consoles installed and lockers and parking brake and line-lock installed and wired
One of the very specific bolts for the headlights, which are converted and installed, broke, so I had to contrive a new one
And … the winch is back a rebuilt and I’m working on getting it installed. Installing it, one stud pulled out, looks like a failed helical, and I’m going to try to install another.
Also, the front cross member will have to move for the 4th time. But … the electric motor looks like it will mount up using bracket the runs from back of winch down to new and final front crossmember.
The filler neck was a massive PITA. I spent a day trying to get the filler neck hooked up getting around the frame rail, including raising the bed 1” - and failed.
So, I gave up and notched the frame for the filler neck.
Have’t filled the tank yet to test, but I’m hopefully.
Also got center consoles installed and lockers and parking brake and line-lock installed and wired
One of the very specific bolts for the headlights, which are converted and installed, broke, so I had to contrive a new one
And … the winch is back a rebuilt and I’m working on getting it installed. Installing it, one stud pulled out, looks like a failed helical, and I’m going to try to install another.
Also, the front cross member will have to move for the 4th time. But … the electric motor looks like it will mount up using bracket the runs from back of winch down to new and final front crossmember.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #191
I’ve also started working on the roll cage and sliders. Since the the sliders are the support structure for the cage, I started there massively reinforcing the step supports with steel and running DOM -
as slider that hopefully will tied nicely into stock step. Plates in the cab floor to carry the back hoop, and we’re going to run the front hoop outside.
as slider that hopefully will tied nicely into stock step. Plates in the cab floor to carry the back hoop, and we’re going to run the front hoop outside.
Maybe save you some hassle- That will not work to power that winch with that electric motor. Electric winches have very different gearing. You can drive a PTO with a properly sized hydraulic motor, but trying to make it work with a series wound DC electric motor will be impossible without external gearing.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #193
I guess I’m going to find out
Your winch is about 30:1 right? A 12K electric winch is about 250:1
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #195
Okay - it actually turns. We’ll find out what it can do in a week or 2
whitey45
SILVER Star
Thats way too fast, meaning the gearing way too high! A factory fj40 pto spins so slow, you can count the revolutions! Interesting to see how it does!!
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #197
So, electric motor isn't going. No idea what to try next as the consensus was that hydraulic won't work either - speed is wrong and power steering pump doesn't flow enough. I guess I have to start researching that in more detail.
Hydraulic motors can be any speed you need. Pump flow and motor displacement determine rpm. PS pump will run it, but it's only about 3 GPM max.
Hydraulic pumps can be belt driven off the engine or pto drive from trans/t-case.
The other thing you could do is add additional gearing for the electric motor. Could be planetary, chain, whatever.
workingdog
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #200
I think it will be easier to try to find a gear reduction to go between the motor and the winch than try to package the planetary out of Warn into something I can use.