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That original pedal going to the DBW is so cool 
1953 Dodge M37 wheeler conversion
- Thread starter workingdog
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workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #82
Okay, I thought this was cool. The PSC ram showed up with the piston all the way to one side. I needed it centered to build the tie rods. We tried to push it - nope. So I called PSC and they used use air. So we tried it, and it worked!!
the problem is as soon as you got enough air to move it a little, it moved a lot. So, it took 20 minutes to slow it down enough to get it centered - within an 1/8".
the problem is as soon as you got enough air to move it a little, it moved a lot. So, it took 20 minutes to slow it down enough to get it centered - within an 1/8".
workingdog
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- #83
I finally get to use these TMR alignment fixtures that I've had for a long time. The would very easy to build.
And, I now have tie rods built (with temp bolts in the knuckle). I'm waiting for 3/4 bolts to arrive today and I'll set it up single shear while we work on double shear.
And, while I was under there, thinking about hydraulics, it occurred to me the Barden winch that I have coming back next month rebuilt doesn't need to be hydraulic, I could also just mount an electric motor to drive it, if I can figure out the geography.
And, I now have tie rods built (with temp bolts in the knuckle). I'm waiting for 3/4 bolts to arrive today and I'll set it up single shear while we work on double shear.
And, while I was under there, thinking about hydraulics, it occurred to me the Barden winch that I have coming back next month rebuilt doesn't need to be hydraulic, I could also just mount an electric motor to drive it, if I can figure out the geography.
workingdog
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- #84
Okay, in the spirit of the build thread has to include the good with the bad, and reaching out to @cruisermatt, we really F*** something up.
The front axle (Ultimate dana 60 for a JL/JT) I got relatively cheap on a blow out.
The 14 bolt in the rear I got from WFO.
Now, me being a total moron, it never occurred to me that for 8 lug/one ton axles I'd have to specify spacing. At the time, I was ... not paying attention to what I was ordering.
And, to compound the thing, I had my son ship me the the wheels off our fj40 as part of him upgrading on his end. They were on the Dana 60/14bolt on the fj40, so - all good???
first sign of trouble was when I was trying to put the TMR alignment tool on the front and it took me a while to figured out they were 9/16 18 thread - not the M14 1.5 I'd been expecting. Okayyy.
But then today, when my son wanted to use the lift and we thought we'd put the wheels on the M37 and roll it out. First time on rubber on all that. Not even put nitrogen in the ORIs.
the fronts, got on with a battle, because we'd gotten the last of the 9/16 lug nuts from the autoparts and we couldn't get a socket on them. We move to the rear ... and SHI*. We try and try and finally figure out that the pattern on the 14 bolt in the rear isn't the same as the front. And ... my large micrometer is dead for me to verify.
So, now I got 4 wheels that fit the front, and no wheels that fit the rear?
So ... what to do? pull the hubs (and rotors) off the rear and replace with same spacing and lugs as the front???? Simple, conceptually - Cruisermat???
Photo for sympathy
The front axle (Ultimate dana 60 for a JL/JT) I got relatively cheap on a blow out.
The 14 bolt in the rear I got from WFO.
Now, me being a total moron, it never occurred to me that for 8 lug/one ton axles I'd have to specify spacing. At the time, I was ... not paying attention to what I was ordering.
And, to compound the thing, I had my son ship me the the wheels off our fj40 as part of him upgrading on his end. They were on the Dana 60/14bolt on the fj40, so - all good???
first sign of trouble was when I was trying to put the TMR alignment tool on the front and it took me a while to figured out they were 9/16 18 thread - not the M14 1.5 I'd been expecting. Okayyy.
But then today, when my son wanted to use the lift and we thought we'd put the wheels on the M37 and roll it out. First time on rubber on all that. Not even put nitrogen in the ORIs.
the fronts, got on with a battle, because we'd gotten the last of the 9/16 lug nuts from the autoparts and we couldn't get a socket on them. We move to the rear ... and SHI*. We try and try and finally figure out that the pattern on the 14 bolt in the rear isn't the same as the front. And ... my large micrometer is dead for me to verify.
So, now I got 4 wheels that fit the front, and no wheels that fit the rear?
So ... what to do? pull the hubs (and rotors) off the rear and replace with same spacing and lugs as the front???? Simple, conceptually - Cruisermat???
Photo for sympathy
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No idea, I don’t know anything about changing lug patterns on those axles
Really diggin this build!!!
Ive seen some drill guides on a FB group not too long ago, but couldnt remember what they were called. Did a quick google search "14 bolt 8x6.5 to 8x170 conversion drill guide" and there are multiple solutions that range from drill guides, to adapters, to hubs themselves. Should be pretty easy to find a solution, just kinda depends what you want to spend.
Ive seen some drill guides on a FB group not too long ago, but couldnt remember what they were called. Did a quick google search "14 bolt 8x6.5 to 8x170 conversion drill guide" and there are multiple solutions that range from drill guides, to adapters, to hubs themselves. Should be pretty easy to find a solution, just kinda depends what you want to spend.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #87
Thanks @cruzinfj1 I'll look them up
WTF, AFAIK thereis only 1 other 8 lug that the front you have could be and thats Ford odd ball( Apparently it is very, very, common, who knew...). If you are set on the wheels that fit the front then just get 14 bolt hubs ( There are aftermarket steel hubs ) drilled to match, Ruff stuff sells the solid axle stuff IIRC, or see if WFO will swap out hubs. How did you end up with the odd ball Ford bolt circle on the front hubs ?
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8-170 wheels are everywhere. Very, very common stuff. Easier to find than 8 on 6.5 in a variety of offsets.
I have a machine shop. I can change any lug pattern if wanted, but what I like better is to run the Superduty fronts with 8-170 wheels then use a narrower rear with good quality spacers to convert 8 on 6.5 to 8-170.
Putting 8 new holes between the 8 old holes is really easy with unit bearings because the flange is solid. If you're using a 14 bolt with full floating hubs (not unit bearings) the hubs are cast and don't usually have the meat where you need it to redrill the pattern. If you can determine the hubs are cast steel you can weld up the holes and machine new ones. I'd want to be 100% positive the hubs are not nodular iron before I welded on them though. Nodular iron welds, but it's not strong.
I have a machine shop. I can change any lug pattern if wanted, but what I like better is to run the Superduty fronts with 8-170 wheels then use a narrower rear with good quality spacers to convert 8 on 6.5 to 8-170.
Putting 8 new holes between the 8 old holes is really easy with unit bearings because the flange is solid. If you're using a 14 bolt with full floating hubs (not unit bearings) the hubs are cast and don't usually have the meat where you need it to redrill the pattern. If you can determine the hubs are cast steel you can weld up the holes and machine new ones. I'd want to be 100% positive the hubs are not nodular iron before I welded on them though. Nodular iron welds, but it's not strong.
workingdog
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- #90
Okay, we may have been totally wrong. It may be the lugs are just slightly out of true making it very hard to get the wheels on. I'm going to have to get a decent large micrometer today. but ... we thought the pattern was too small, and someone pointed out that 170mm is greater than 6.5", not smaller. So, we have to go back to the wheels and see what the Fu** is up.
workingdog
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- Thread starter
- #94
I confirmed that the rear is actually 6.5". So, we are going to take the 5th rim, which is unmounted, and see if one of the lugs is out of whack, or what's wrong.
workingdog
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- #95
Okay, moving forward. The gas tank is mounted, stock straps are modified. And the new motor mounts are cut on the plasma table, bent and tacked in place. And the motor is back in and in it's final/final position (we'll see if there's a final/final/final). the new water pump (Camaro style instead of corvette) is here along with Goat Built accessory bracket, so I swapped water pumps and got the Goat Built installed along with the PS pump and the alternator. Waiting on tools to swap the harmonic balancer and install the PS pump pulley. I bent the idler installing it. have to see if I can bend it back.
I was able to find a Holley Terminator Max on Jegs (I ordered mine direct from Holley 2 months ago and they still have no estimated ship date), so I ordered it and it arrived 2 days later. So, with the motor in and the cab down, the engine harness is installed and the ECM mounted. It's interesting that for a 'plug and play' harness, you still have to figure out how to mount a manifold temp sensor and I've had to switch the oil pressure sensor because the one on the LS3 is too knew and add a fuel pressure sending unit. but otherwise, it all went pretty well.
I was able to find a Holley Terminator Max on Jegs (I ordered mine direct from Holley 2 months ago and they still have no estimated ship date), so I ordered it and it arrived 2 days later. So, with the motor in and the cab down, the engine harness is installed and the ECM mounted. It's interesting that for a 'plug and play' harness, you still have to figure out how to mount a manifold temp sensor and I've had to switch the oil pressure sensor because the one on the LS3 is too knew and add a fuel pressure sending unit. but otherwise, it all went pretty well.
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Peter, I know how much you love working twice, you really ought to remake those motor mounts without the big windows. It looks cool but I had the exact same looking thing completely fold on my FJ62.
Do you know what thickness the frame rails are on that chassis? If less then 3/16", add a spreader plate under them.
Even better would be if you could use the OEM GM truck mounts, it gets really close in a 40 width frame though
Edit, I forgot this isn’t a FJ40
Do you know what thickness the frame rails are on that chassis? If less then 3/16", add a spreader plate under them.
Even better would be if you could use the OEM GM truck mounts,
Edit, I forgot this isn’t a FJ40
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workingdog
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- #97
I boxed the frame with 3/16, and the frame is doubled up right there. I'll get a better picture later on and see what you think.
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what’s the width between the frame rails? Might be able to just put my FJ60 kit in there.
workingdog
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- #99
26" at the water pump, and it's pretty straight back to the motor mounts. These headers aren't going to work either, if you have any suggestions that are narrow enough and dump out a little farther back.
workingdog
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- #100
Made some progress on the electrical. The Holley terminator is installed, battery is wired up, key turns on, terminator turns on, accelerator pedal is calibrated (after some thrashing around), fuel pump is running, accessories belt is very close to done. And finally got a filter sock on the fuel pick up and it's all in the tank. So, I'm very close to firing the motor.
But!!! When I swapped out the corvette harmonic balancer for the Camaro harmonic balancer - which sticks out 2" more. I'm now hitting the PSC ram mount with the balancer at full stuff. So, either I have to rotate the ram mount down 1/2", which will make the tie rods not perfectly straight and level, or I have to bring the motor up another 1/2" - which I can do, but will take the slope of the drive train over 5 degrees. I'm feeling like I should raise the motor rather than screw with the tie rod angle. I could also just move the ORI mounts down 1/2" which is essentially raising the frame 1/2" - which I also don't want to do?
I already have double cardan on the front axle, and I can adjust the rear pinion to match the drive train angle. Is there any reason not to go ahead and lift the motor a little more?
This is hard to see because my phone wouldn't focus on the right spot, but it's actually worse than this at full stuff, the balancer is contacting the bolt on the 3rd bracket. g
But!!! When I swapped out the corvette harmonic balancer for the Camaro harmonic balancer - which sticks out 2" more. I'm now hitting the PSC ram mount with the balancer at full stuff. So, either I have to rotate the ram mount down 1/2", which will make the tie rods not perfectly straight and level, or I have to bring the motor up another 1/2" - which I can do, but will take the slope of the drive train over 5 degrees. I'm feeling like I should raise the motor rather than screw with the tie rod angle. I could also just move the ORI mounts down 1/2" which is essentially raising the frame 1/2" - which I also don't want to do?
I already have double cardan on the front axle, and I can adjust the rear pinion to match the drive train angle. Is there any reason not to go ahead and lift the motor a little more?
This is hard to see because my phone wouldn't focus on the right spot, but it's actually worse than this at full stuff, the balancer is contacting the bolt on the 3rd bracket. g