A 17" diameter beadlock has more surface area than a 15" beadlock. Hence, more opportunity to encounter rocks.
Are you really this dense? If not, why are you arguing for arguments sake?
15" vs 17" wheel with 39.5 IROKS
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Are you really this dense? If not, why are you arguing for arguments sake?
allied beadlocks fawker
lol, Allieds make a good rim. But their steel outer lip (even on the AL rims) has not been my favorite. The thick ass aluminum lip that TrailReady, Champion Walker Evans, KMC, OMF, etc.. tend to hold up better from my experience (as long as they are mounted on a forged instead of cast AL rim). But honestly, I have seen just about every rim out there destroyed at one time or another. It's the nature of the game, you play hard, things break.
I was really hoping that you would actually have some data to support your statement instead of "Cause it's bigger and stuff". Good job...
IMO If you are thinking you need to stay at 15" to keep from trashing rims....you are doing something wrong.
It's the nature of the game, you play hard, things break.
i agree 100%
that wouldn't be my only reason, but it think it's a factor......the real factor imo is the weight difference.....15" allied is 34lbs....the 17" is 46lbs......the 17" irok- 84....the 15" irok is 76
when your running 40" tires on toyota axles 20 lbs difference per wheel is worth considering
I was astounded with the difference in weight between a 40 in irok in 15 and 16.5 in rim. I'm still amazed that you have kept the cruise axles alive in a comp situation. Pretty cool
I love looow pressures, <5psi, I plan to go to 17's for better control offroad, and more control on road.
When I take "ambitious" turns, transition bridges on the toll roads, and other whoops here on the crappy streets of Chicago, I can feel a "squishy-ness" and a lateral oscillation in the side walls....If that makes sense.
When I take "ambitious" turns, transition bridges on the toll roads, and other whoops here on the crappy streets of Chicago, I can feel a "squishy-ness" and a lateral oscillation in the side walls....If that makes sense.
Absolutely. If you do much driving on road that isn't just ambling down to the gas station, you'd be smart to go with bigger rims for more control. 20s may be the new 17s before long with a 40"+ tire...
I've known a couple of people that run the 39.5x20" iroks on rock buggies. They actually like them a lot.
Another nice thing about the 17" rim big tires is that you get a 6 ply sidewall instead of a 4 ply sidewall. that is one of the reasons for the additional weight. Load rating is higher. It also means you'll need to air down more to get the same contact pattern than you would with a 15" rim.
Another nice thing about the 17" rim big tires is that you get a 6 ply sidewall instead of a 4 ply sidewall. that is one of the reasons for the additional weight. Load rating is higher. It also means you'll need to air down more to get the same contact pattern than you would with a 15" rim.
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I run 15" with 39.5 Iroks and love them, I use Inner Airlock, pretty much the same as Stauns, I have the Inner Airlocks and the 15" rims so it was the right way to for me, but when I go to 42" or bigger I will change it all. Cost was the main factor for me. If you like the inner bead locks then contact Shawn at Inner Airlock InnerAirLock, LLC - Inner Air Lock ~ Home , he'll set you right. Great guy and even better product!
These look pretty good, any comments on if/how they would work as a run flat or to protect the wheel?
I have 39.5x16 bias ply's on my 60 on DC-1's
The rubber will loose a bead way too easily at anything under 15 psi.
I now realize I should have bought a cheaper steel wheel and bead locks (hindsight)
Also, do the IAL (Inner Air Lock style bead locks) inhibit airflow while filling or deflating tires at all? Seems another pro of the larger diameter wheel is less fill/defalte time. Might be better for vehicles that spend some time on pavement.
15s ok
17s BITCHIN
17s BITCHIN
