130 amp alternator install in 00 LX (1 Viewer)

[hoser]

The "M or FR" pin is not used. Confirm the white wire is in the M position and cut off. Confirm all the wiring actually.

I did not remove any mounting “tab” as seen in post 3. It fit as is.

When installing your new alternator, you might find the 3 prong connector disintegrate upon removal and need to install a new one. IMO, I would just go 4-prong at that point (without pigtail). You will likely never reinstall a 3 prong alternator from here on out. The later Sequoia and Tundra use it (maybe GX and 4Runner).

 

[MongooseGA]

So let's say your alternator burns out when you out in the wilds and you need to swap it out in the AutoZone parking lot, how do you get an alternator with the tab already cut off or the correct harness connector? I think it would be more prudent to have a 100 series specific rewound for higher amperage at an alternator shop then you can just swap in a standard 100 amp from the parts store if you get in a bind.

In that case you'd probably want a connector adaptor in the glove box and just throw in whatever 100- series- compatible unit you can find.

But you do raise a good point about field repairs. Rewiring a connector in the mud would blow.

 

[hoser]

I had a chance to re-read this thread. Really good intentions on the OP's part but the information is not exactly accurate.

Step one find an appropriate M6 (M6 x .8 I believe). I used a 6mm button cap screw because it’s a common bicycle side so I have lots of them. I used a washer and a lock washer. This hole is .520 deep so +/- 12mm.

AFAIK, this threaded stud is not necessary and not used. Likely used in a different application/vehicle.

The pins were a different shape otherwise this would have much easier.

The pins are the same. I pushed them out of the 3-prong connector and installed them in the 4-prong without cutting the factory wiring.

Next you’ll need to remove the third mounting tab. Tape the alternator well to prevent scratches and debris from cutting. Again tape it very well! Then cut, smooth and polish. It’s aluminum so it cuts very easy. A hacksaw and a file will do just fine if that all you got.

The 3rd mounting tab can stay without any issue. Picture proof...

So let's say your alternator burns out when you out in the wilds and you need to swap it out in the AutoZone parking lot, how do you get an alternator with the tab already cut off or the correct harness connector? I think it would be more prudent to have a 100 series specific rewound for higher amperage at an alternator shop then you can just swap in a standard 100 amp from the parts store if you get in a bind.

This is standard '03-'07 100 series alternator retrofitted on a 98-02. Nothing special nor exotic.

 

[yj668]

The pins are the same. I pushed them out of the 3-prong connector and installed them in the 4-prong without cutting the factory wiring.


The 3rd mounting tab can stay without any issue. Picture proof...

Is the alternator plug housing 90980-11964 for the 4-pin?

 

[hoser]

Part number is correct. One small suggestion is to fill the "unused" pin with a terminal or by whatever means so water doesn't get inside the connector.

 

[JOSHD]

I had a chance to re-read this thread. Really good intentions on the OP's part but the information is not exactly accurate.


AFAIK, this threaded stud is not necessary and not used. Likely used in a different application/vehicle.


The pins are the same. I pushed them out of the 3-prong connector and installed them in the 4-prong without cutting the factory wiring.


The 3rd mounting tab can stay without any issue. Picture proof...

View attachment 3028449


This is standard '03-'07 100 series alternator retrofitted on a 98-02. Nothing special nor exotic.

Ah...see now that I know you don't have to hack off a tab, it make sense to upgrade to a 130amp. Thanks for the pic.

 

[suzie]

Ok, I mounted the new upgraded 130amp alternator. Started the car and the battery warning light went away (warning lights was on with the old alternator). The problem now is that I measured the voltage at the battery terminals and it is reading about 12.2V. It seems like the battery is not being charged at all. I left car running for 20mins and battery is clearly being drained.

May I know whether there's an obvious fault that will manifest in this manner? Where the battery warning light goes away but it still does not charge battery. Thanks very much!

 

[suzie]

Ok good folks, mystery solved. The 19 years old female alternator connector crumbled on the inside while the external looked perfectly good! I pulled the 3 wires out and then individually heat shranked them, and gingerly stuck them into the male counterparts. Insulation taped them and will wait for another day to rewire with new connectors. I'm now getting 13.6A at the battery when engine running.

So, please check your connector innards
condition carefully!

I do have one issue though : the battery warning light is back ON again. Could it be because of the upgraded 130A alternator? Any ideas why?

Never a dull moment. Thanks to all who chimed in with troubleshooting ideas, much appreciated.

 

[pugwash]

Here in the UK the 97-01 models all came with 130 amp alternators as standard! I'll update with the denso part number as soon as i can find it!

 

[BnvS]

Ok good folks, mystery solved. The 19 years old female alternator connector crumbled on the inside while the external looked perfectly good! I pulled the 3 wires out and then individually heat shranked them, and gingerly stuck them into the male counterparts. Insulation taped them and will wait for another day to rewire with new connectors. I'm now getting 13.6A at the battery when engine running.

So, please check your connector innards
condition carefully!

I do have one issue though : the battery warning light is back ON again. Could it be because of the upgraded 130A alternator? Any ideas why?

Never a dull moment. Thanks to all who chimed in with troubleshooting ideas, much appreciated.

View attachment 3033776

I had a chance to re-read this thread. Really good intentions on the OP's part but the information is not exactly accurate.


AFAIK, this threaded stud is not necessary and not used. Likely used in a different application/vehicle.


The pins are the same. I pushed them out of the 3-prong connector and installed them in the 4-prong without cutting the factory wiring.


The 3rd mounting tab can stay without any issue. Picture proof...

View attachment 3028449


This is standard '03-'07 100 series alternator retrofitted on a 98-02. Nothing special nor exotic.

@hoser So question from your above - I am going from 80amp to 130 amp alternator for my 2000 LC.

1. We do not have to do anything with the threaded stud I think on the 130 amp alternator..just leave it alone right?
2. No need to cut anything from the alternator housing at all..just bolt it up right? btw did you bring it up from bottom or top? (likely bottom)
3. I am just thinking of doing a 3 to 4 pin adapter.. I already have the connectors I got and need to crimp the connectors and make them.

@suzie did you ever get your battery light issue resolved on your dashboard?

 

[hoser]

1. There are two threaded studs in post #1. The one on the right is for the charge cable. The one on the left is not normally present, I believe. Perhaps it came on an aftermarket alternator. It’s not needed for the 100.

2. No alteration needed to alternator. It’s is a direct replacement besides the connector.

3. Adapter is fine but I would still replace the connector. It may have lasted 15-20 years but it likely won’t last another 5-10 years.

 

[hoser]

Here in the UK the 97-01 models all came with 130 amp alternators as standard! I'll update with the denso part number as soon as i can find it!

I think you’re talking about the 4.2 diesel.

 

[BnvS]

The "M or FR" pin is not used. Confirm the white wire is in the M position and cut off. Confirm all the wiring actually.

I did not remove any mounting “tab” as seen in post 3. It fit as is.

When installing your new alternator, you might find the 3 prong connector disintegrate upon removal and need to install a new one. IMO, I would just go 4-prong at that point (without pigtail). You will likely never reinstall a 3 prong alternator from here on out. The later Sequoia and Tundra use it (maybe GX and 4Runner).

So I can confirm @hoser as I just did a 130A Denso Reman Alternator swap without any alteration of the Unit.. no cutting needed just a direct swap of the 130A. Here are my few lesson's learned. Also am no everyday mechanic so doing this slow and steady on a hot humid day, it is 4-5 hr job with a few breaks in between (without taking fan bracket out)

1. Make sure you have the 4 pin connector handy before you swap the 80-100Amp (3 wire pin) to the 130+Amp (4 wire pin) alternator. The 20+ year old 3 pin was very brittle and cracked into pieces when I took it out. PIN info - 4 pin female 90980-11964 (Toyo part #) or Generic one is Female Sumitomo part number - 6189-0694 (this one is way cheaper than the Toyo one)

2. Know how to take the old pins out form the 3 pin and put them into the 4 pin. Its not hard but if you dont know how to do it, it trial and error then.

PINS are as follows for 2000 LC -

S-White/Blue -> Pin 1,
IG-Red/Blue -> Pin 2,
L-Black/Orange -> Pin 4,
M - Pin 3 - NOT used for anything...

3. You have to remove the power steering pump to remove the Alternator (I dont think there is a way outta this)

4. You may have to take the fan shroud out or loosen from the bottom to get the old Alternator out and put the new one back in.

5. I swapped the 3-to-4 connector out from an obvious opening underneath the LC so you may want to do that as getting to them from above would be very hard.

So I went from a Alternator putting out 12.6v at the battery terminals to the new one putting out 13.45v.

Overall an its a medium job to swap if you take your time and keep at it.

 

[awesomeissquid]

Is anyone upgrading the charge wire to a larger size to handle the higher amps or is it not really necessary? I am getting ready for a bumper/winch install and thinking about swapping to the higher amp alt at the same time and trying to get all my ducks in a row ahead of time.

 

[BnvS]

Is anyone upgrading the charge wire to a larger size to handle the higher amps or is it not really necessary? I am getting ready for a bumper/winch install and thinking about swapping to the higher amp alt at the same time and trying to get all my ducks in a row ahead of time.

I am guessing you want to only change the battery to alternator wire.

So think of this logically if you want to change the wire don't you think you have to change it from the source?

That guage of wire is pretty thick. I don't think you need to change that. And no one else has mentioned to change the wire size and you're swapping it out from the 100 amp to 130 amp alternator.

That's just my uneducated 2 cents.

 

[awesomeissquid]

I am guessing you want to only change the battery to alternator wire.

So think of this logically if you want to change the wire don't you think you have to change it from the source?

That guage of wire is pretty thick. I don't think you need to change that. And no one else has mentioned to change the wire size and you're swapping it out from the 100 amp to 130 amp alternator.

That's just my uneducated 2 cents.

Well I already did all the grounds as part of the big 3 upgrade. I figure the alt-batt cable is the last one. But yea I kinda figured since no one else mentioned it that it wasn’t really needed.

 

[hoser]

I did upgrade my charge cable (didn't actually replace the existing cable but added additional charge cable). I don't think it is necessary but I was going from an 80A alternator to a 150A alternator and it seemed reasonable.

 

[BnvS]

BTW here's the pic of the installed alternator.. no alteration is needed on the alternator housing.. Just the 3-4 pin plug if you have a LC/LC from 1998-2002 maybe 2003.

 

[BnvS]

Do you mean ground on the car body? I was wondering if it's meant for the nut here on alternator body? But there's already an existing cable with the eye in the LX470 when I removed old alternator. The fact that they manufactured such an adapter specifically for the Denso 3 to 4 pin is interesting. Any further advice would be appreciated ... Thanks!

View attachment 3027469

IMHO, the 3 pin adapter may be very brittle, so as I mentioned in my post above, get the 4 pin connector before you start changing the alternator, as you will need to move the pins from old connector to the new 4 pin one.

 

[awesomeissquid]

I did upgrade my charge cable (didn't actually replace the existing cable but added additional charge cable). I don't think it is necessary but I was going from an 80A alternator to a 150A alternator and it seemed reasonable.

Was the 150A a factory one? I thought they were 130A units.