12V power plugs/jacks - options?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

TreadingLight said:
How many fridges ya got?

But yeah, I hear you. The only others I know of that are flush are rj45 (not enough power), usb-c (could handle the load but connectors are tiny/fragile), barrel connectors (something didn't feel right about that) or cig lighter (ug).

There are probably some industrial DC connectors or aviation connectors that mght work?

Power pole may be the way to go.
Click to expand...
One fridge! Each "jack" - one on the cargo panel and one on the fridge - and each "plug" - for a cable going between them - is around $30. I'd probably have $150 in it at the end of the day with shipping, wiring, etc.
 
Yeah that's a lot for a connection. I was thinking more like $75 for one pair. Splice one side into the fridge cable and the other into the vehicle. A splurge but not too crazy given how much fun I'd have showing it off.

If your fridge is modern and you don't want to hack the factory cable you can get cables for cheap on amazon. If you have an older fridge or steel Engel the cable is only available from Engel as far as I can tell, and a bit pricier.
 
TreadingLight said:
Yeah that's a lot for a connection. I was thinking more like $75 for one pair. Splice one side into the fridge cable and the other into the vehicle. A splurge but not too crazy given how much fun I'd have showing it off.

If your fridge is modern and you don't want to hack the factory cable you can get cables for cheap on amazon. If you have an older fridge or steel Engel the cable is only available from Engel as far as I can tell, and a bit pricier.
Click to expand...
It's a cheap Amazon Acopower fridge with a barrel connector jack I bought used, so I don't mind hacking it up to get a more secure connection. I didn't even get power cable with it. $120 is pretty extravagant for a super-duper overlander 12V connection and I'm thinking I may just wind up with Anderson stuff. At least I did a survey of what's out there!
 
TreadingLight said:
Wait so you don't think it makes sense to spend more on the connectors than on the fridge?

I just can't relate to this mindset lol.
Click to expand...
I, in fact, said exactly the opposite of that 😂
 
If that panel is metal it could flat-recessed enough to make a simple power port flush to below flush. If it's a polymer of some sort could a similar depth flat bottomed pocket be routered into it?
The Blue Sea Systems power point and plug twist lock together and I don't see any need for anything more exotic.
 
ntsqd said:
If that panel is metal it could flat-recessed enough to make a simple power port flush to below flush. If it's a polymer of some sort could a similar depth flat bottomed pocket be routered into it?
The Blue Sea Systems power point and plug twist lock together and I don't see any need for anything more exotic.
Click to expand...
1/4" thermoplastic. Recessed mounting could be done with standoffs, but flush is good enough for me. The Blue Sea twist locks do seem like a good choice.
 
Flange on the Blue Sea Systems power point is eyeballically about .075" thick. The cap that plugs the opening is probably .125" or so (can measure both if you need exact). A .100" deep routered pocket in the panel will put the flange at less than flush. If you want the cap to also be less than flush then I'd use the small faceplate that comes with the assembly to mount it to the backside of your panel and make the hole in your panel a little larger than the OD of the flange. Two M5's will hold the faceplate in place.
 
ntsqd said:
Flange on the Blue Sea Systems power point is eyeballically about .075" thick. The cap that plugs the opening is probably .125" or so (can measure both if you need exact). A .100" deep routered pocket in the panel will put the flange at less than flush. If you want the cap to also be less than flush then I'd use the small faceplate that comes with the assembly to mount it to the backside of your panel and make the hole in your panel a little larger than the OD of the flange. Two M5's will hold the faceplate in place.
Click to expand...
Oh, I don't really care if my solution is anywhere within any of the dimensions you're talking about it. My original "panel mount" inquiry was very broad brush!

And yes, that's the Blue Sea one that got mentioned above. Cigarette lighter style, but twist lock.
 
Putting the Blue Sea plugs on a power lead is a bit fiddly, I really wish that they did that part better. And I also wish that they would leave out the fuse in the plug, it's not necessary when the socket is fuse protected which I've never encountered one that wasn't.

But given the constraints mentioned using the rear mounted faceplate is how I would solve the problem.
 
I have powerpoles sprinkled around both my 4wds. I like that they are hermaphroditic which makes extension cables and other gadgets (like inline switches) so easy to connect together.

I've used the bluesea 'locking' cig lighter plugs/sockets and I don't like them since they stick out a lot.

I knocked this up with solidworks and 3D printed one. Would easily allow for surface mounting the PP. If you have room, then a bulkhead PP outlet works well for a mostly flush mount.

pp_fr.webp




pp_bk.webp


Uses a roll pin to lock it in place.

pp_pin.webp


Bulkhead dual PP outlet. 3D printed (including the nut)

updated.webp

cheers,
george.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom