12HT Intercooler & GTurbo upgrade LHD 60 (1 Viewer)

[cruiserpilot]

Here is the plan, I needed mandrel bends, but not much room to play with. I also knew that the tube was
going right over that one bolt and I was concerned I wouldn't have enough room. But I measured and
slammed the hood a couple of times to test,

Here it is, my own little work of art. I'm putting this here, cause it's easy to copy. I've even supplied dimensions.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Final copy. I TIG's the 1/4" to the sides for the two required ports and future requirements. The 3/16" thick
tubing just wouldn't catch thread and I had no source that was quick for weld on bungs. This worked good.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Here are a couple of shots of the mock up. I used 2 1/2" silicone boot 90 degree right off the bottom of the
inlet adapter and because I cut the angles on the inlet elbow tube on the IC I only needed a straight 2 1/2"
piece along the bottom. No clearance issues, easy access to injection pump and clear below the battery tray.
That ruler layed there right up until final TIG. I had to be certain no interference with battery trays.

 

[cruiserpilot]

The LH side was a straight shot back from the IC with a bit of a rise, but I had to get a bit tricky to
get around the bump in the inner fender. Big deal here, need to be able to service alternator, fit the
battery tray in. All my electrical extras are on this inner fender, I don't want piping in the way. Basically
ended up with 1/4" from the fenders for clearance and easy access to everything else.

 

[bcsteel]

Following closely. Thx for the detail

 

[cruiserpilot]

Post 15 and 24 show where I split the fan shroud. Basically cut it and using pop rivets, for fun really, I attached a flange.
Then on the lower parts I welded captured nuts to the inside. That way the shroud can be separated just by removing
4 bolts along with the other radiator mounting bolts. All the same 12 mm size of course, so easy to collect up. Got lucky
on the LH side, post 24, those two bolts are literally rubbing the bottom of the battery tray. Just fluke, I'd recommend
locating them about 1/2" lower just to clear it a bit more easily. IF they were higher the new series 31 batteries would
rub them. No issue with factory size series 27's.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Following closely. Thx for the detail

This isn't detail! HaHa! For every pic I have 6 more. We'll get together soon enough and I'll take you through
the whole thing.

 

[bcsteel]

That sounds great. When you up here next?

 

[cruiserpilot]

To be honest, if I get this thing where I want it I'd like to take a fast run up early spring. See how it runs
before I head into the back country. That would be 3500 kms, good break in.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Got it all mocked up. Liked it. Terrified I'd missed something and off to the welder. AS much as I'd like to
TIG myself. It's expensive to start up and the talent to do it well I really appreciate. Damn, aluminum heats
up fast!

 

[cruiserpilot]

Back home for the glory shots. I know, corny but it does look cool.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Here are the angles, just for perspective. On the last shot, it has a bit of a kink. The power steering box is below
that bend, and I really didn't feel like messing around with the pressure line. Had I done that, it would be a
straight line like the other side.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Final install pics

 

[cruiserpilot]

The grill got a shave. I used an 80 grit 4 1/2" flapper wheel, melts the plastic and shapes it easily. But the bottom
took a real hit, not a whole lot left but still recognizable and usable. I'll be inserting a mesh protector to save from
rocks and keep bugs and branches to a minimum.
BTW - I wiped and then painted all the aluminum with aerosol Clear Coat paint. I was going to leave it, but the front
of the inlet pipes are going to be in all kinds of weather and whatever kind of initial protection I can add I hope will
work out. I've heard it yellows over time. So be it.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I have a short thread here about this. The exhaust manifold had be drilled by someone unknown. Basically
drilled a hole for a pyro, missed the mark and then just left the hole. Fortunately a friend has a machine grade
drill press and some machining bits so we drilled the new location and the old. The old one I tapped and plugged.
The new location is mid flow from the rear three exhaust ports and I should get a good read.
I was surprised how thin the exhaust manifold was. Drill and tap with caution.

 

[cruiserpilot]

What I didn't know - The turbo is cooled with both oil and coolant. DRAIN ALL THE COOLANT. Oil doesn't matter as it
settles into the pan. I drained the rad and block. Not enough to stop continuous dribbling. Next time, I'll hook up my shop
vac and push the coolant out. Just cause I hate the stuff. There are 3 sets of studs on the turbo. The smaller one on front can
be removed with socket, after the nuts are removed. The larger nuts that attach at the engine block below for the oil return
and then on the bottom of the turbo. Removing the nuts and studs can make for much easier removal and install of the
turbo. I cleaned them, hoping now that I have a catch can the oil accumulation will be minimized after this.
GTurbo relocated the lower support bracket attachment hole location. They don't seem too worried about the lower
bracket on the turbo, essentially saying it's not necessary. Many guys have had them for years without.
I'm not that confident so I fabbed up a welded stud and bent a small bridging piece so it's got support. All 4 bolts
are 17 mm so if I have to remove it not a big deal.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Engine coolant drain
In the upper two pics you can see the factory coolant drain in coming from the coolant drain back to the lower
block. I removed it, as I don't enjoy the sprayed discharge of coolant all over and off course even if you are
careful it comes straight down onto the springs. So I replaced it with coupler and brass drain with a 3/8"
spigot on it. Now I can slide a 3/8" hose over the spigot, open the wing nut and control the drain.
Just a simple cheap upgrade I thought I'd mention.

 

[cruiserpilot]

This is the 3" dump pipe I got from Australia 4X4Factory Exhausts. It has a pyro bung welded into it.
I got lucky, my exhaust was really well made by my buddy Rob so I removed the section, and bought
a mandrel elbow from Lordco and slid it right on. I got a 3" band clamp they work really well. I figured
it will allow some adjustment as I align it all. Attached is also the 3" ID adapter flange sold by Factory4x4
as well. It's really made well and makes sliding the 3" exhaust into it simple. I'll have my guy TIG that in place
so hopefully never have to replace it. Can't see why as this end of exhausts essentially last forever.
PS - @bcsteel - I got two of the exhaust dumps and adapters. If you are interested let me know, it's sitting
on the shelf in the shop. Figured if I was shipping all the way from Aus, might as well double up and save
on shipping.

 

[coldtaco]

Nice work and write up. Might be doing the same once I get the 12HT installed in my HJ75

 

[cruiserpilot]

...........

Nice work and write up. Might be doing the same once I get the 12HT installed in my HJ75

next is a LHD 75 if I can find one. Need a truck.