12HT Intercooler & GTurbo upgrade LHD 60

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Thermo sensor.
forum.ih8mud.com

12HT Thermo sensor

Can somebody explain what this is doing on the manual stop lever ? I know it is only mounted on Cold spec. 12HT's.It is called a thermo element 22474-68160
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
Great! Thanks for the help. I’ll spray it up with lubricant and leave it there. I certainly
get into cold weather with this truck.
 
Injectors arrived! 5 more just like it

4970C28C-5390-40F9-95D8-AA47C43DA838.jpeg
 
Interesting. Slightly off topic musings about the governor:

Does this mean that when the engine isn't running, the rack travel isn't limited by the full load stopper, but by the stop lever? That does sound correct and the same as the governors on other 'A' type pumps. There are no photos or diagrams on how the 12ht/13bt governor looks/works fully assembled, it's hard to picture how the torque plate/cam works in relation to the fuel rack itself.

On my 13bt which seems to have an identical governor and pump (but for 4cyl), i found the boost compensator at full travel still prevented a lot of movement of the 'sliding plate'. The rod on the back of the boost comp is effectively adjustable, so I backed it out and gained about 5mm of travel on the sliding plate. When I put it back together I was surprised that I appeared to have gained no more fueling from doing this, like something else was limiting rack travel. I've read that some A pumps have elements with timing retard notches, that somehow retard the timing at extreme rack travel to aid starting. If you adjust the governor to be able to use that rack travel whilst running, you can lose power to some extent.

At full throttle my truck doesn't pull as hard as it can, as I slowly back off the throttle to about 3/4 travel it reaches a point where it starts pulling harder. As the revs climb, this point where torque drops gets closer to full throttle, and at some point over 3k rpm, I can put my foot flat without torque dropping.

I'd wondered if the 12ht or 13bt pumps could have 'retard to start' elements, but I couldn't see how the governor was actually enabling more rack travel beyond the limit of the full load stopper. But this cold weather start device would seem to prove that it does.
 
Nz Nath said:
Interesting. Slightly off topic musings about the governor:

Does this mean that when the engine isn't running, the rack travel isn't limited by the full load stopper, but by the stop lever? That does sound correct and the same as the governors on other 'A' type pumps. There are no photos or diagrams on how the 12ht/13bt governor looks/works fully assembled, it's hard to picture how the torque plate/cam works in relation to the fuel rack itself.

On my 13bt which seems to have an identical governor and pump (but for 4cyl), i found the boost compensator at full travel still prevented a lot of movement of the 'sliding plate'. The rod on the back of the boost comp is effectively adjustable, so I backed it out and gained about 5mm of travel on the sliding plate. When I put it back together I was surprised that I appeared to have gained no more fueling from doing this, like something else was limiting rack travel. I've read that some A pumps have elements with timing retard notches, that somehow retard the timing at extreme rack travel to aid starting. If you adjust the governor to be able to use that rack travel whilst running, you can lose power to some extent.

At full throttle my truck doesn't pull as hard as it can, as I slowly back off the throttle to about 3/4 travel it reaches a point where it starts pulling harder. As the revs climb, this point where torque drops gets closer to full throttle, and at some point over 3k rpm, I can put my foot flat without torque dropping.

I'd wondered if the 12ht or 13bt pumps could have 'retard to start' elements, but I couldn't see how the governor was actually enabling more rack travel beyond the limit of the full load stopper. But this cold weather start device would seem to prove that it does.
Click to expand...

Your musings are way beyond my ability to answer without any experience. The FSM for the 12HT does explain and have really good information on how they set up, even for fuel / throttle position settings.
I too have a 13BT so I’ll take a look at equivalent areas and see how comparable they are. This engine of course 2H specs as well, so it’s going off it’s sister engine.
 
Here are my 6 new ducks in a row. I’ve spent too much time on other things, but since it’s
all apart good time to clean up and adjust PS pulley, replace belts and re route some stuff
from the intercooler set up.

35CD2CB8-2881-4924-A00A-7CF90C86A6F9.jpeg
 
So today is official end of build. With new oil, oil and fuel filters, fan belts in a day or two.
Injectors were pulled and rebuilt. Injection pump timing was retarded so it was reset. Valves were
adjusted. Compression test done, #5 was a bit low, but the valves on 5 needed the most adjustment.
Compression numbers are good. So I put the tape on the wall, baselined the engine.
It’s smooth, pulls amazing on hills now in 5th. So here is a tape I put on the shop wall.

7848B208-52B1-470B-A4A8-7A449FC915F7.jpeg
476DF50D-C9E0-4FF9-BEDF-7EA6EA40B0FB.jpeg
 
🙄.

Never done until Land Cruiser God says it’s done.
When we timed the injection pump, the injectors were away. FYI, this involves actually
pivoting the whole pump, sort of tilting it away from the engine. What one has to realize,
the injector lines are hardened steel, ridgidly held in place by cap nuts and retainers.
So when I reinstalled the injectors the lines were all displaced from before. I had #2 leak
and had to tear into it three times before I got an epiphany, loosen the cap nuts on the injector pump,
loosen the position guide nuts with the line lock downs, loosen the hold down bolts on the injectors themselves.
Then attach the line nuts to the injectors, tighten to spec. Then tighten the injectors themselves
to spec. Then reattach the injector line cap nuts on the pump and the guide nuts.
I hope this helps the next guy who removes injectors and then times injection pump
and can properly put it all back together without tension.
My .02, inherent tension resisting vibration on anything, including a motor is gonna give you
trouble later on. Reassemble loosely with slack and save trouble later. J
 
TESTING.......Compressor Winch vs clean front
Surprisingly enough it seems the compressor blocking or not blocking the intercooler. I’m surprised
no one actually brought it up here. It certainly has been the elephant in the room to me since
I put this all together. My respected mentor in Perth Aus., told me it wouldn’t have any effect.
Yet it would always make me wonder so yesterday I removed the winch and drove quite a few
runs up a couple of the local grades here, 6-7% anyways although the one is close to 8%.
They are long enough that sustained and proper power setting is required for the run.
No difference. So the winch goes back on today.
Testing boost.....
Whole different story. I’m going back and forth with what I am certain is a buggered boost controller.
My own fault messing with it. But it’s wicked strong at 15 psi. I open it up and allow full 26 lbs
and I can’t limit it to 20 psi with throttle control, too much fussing. But I can say that sustained at
20 psi does give better EGT Control on hill climbs for me. So I’ll get a new boost controller.
I can keep temps below 1150F under load and not lose speed on the hills.
Pic without Compressor winch and pic with compressor winch. It does cover pretty high
48C8FF77-2AFF-47D7-A7A5-C15F2E02F0F2.jpeg
C9CFB5E9-7BEA-4D10-BC00-2B6CC4233F93.jpeg
 
Can you please give some feedback on that Bosch alternator?
 
12V 80A seems to do the trick.
OzAutoElectric

Alternators Supplied Nationwide

Alternators available online including Bosch Alternators and Alternators for Ford, Holden Alternators, Toyota Alternators, and Mitsubishi Alternators, all delivered to your door.
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Thanks for the follow up.

I realize it's output specs are equal to the 12V OEM 12H-T alternator, the feedback I'm looking for is how long have you had it, any issues with installation, any problems, etc...
From what I've read it is made in Taiwan and spare parts to service it with may not be available.
 
cruiserpilot said:
Here you go. Looks still in business. I don't usually shop eBay but this guy rates over 99%
So I took a chance. I've been burned a few times on eBay/

Security measure

www.ebay.co.uk www.ebay.co.uk
Click to expand...

I had a set of those and they where crap. After 500km or so the engine was running rough and not round. 1 or 2 injectors where doing stupid stuff. Changed back to my old ones and it was better but not perfekt. I talked to a friend who does a lot with 80s and also for many friends and he also told me that he had 2 engines with the same problem and injectors from there. New injectors and al was OK. Maybe there better now ... they used to be god many years ago.
 
Yeah, the guy who rebuilt my injectors told me to throw them out. Expensive experiment
for me. Another ‘don’t trust eBay’ experience.
 
What did you do for your air intake/filter housing? Did you use the stock one or did you modify it for a bigger inlet? Been trying to get my engine to run like I am expecting it to, especially compared to all you guys with your glowing reviews of the finished product. Mine is still not quite where I think it should be. I think it needs more air, so thinking of going with a 4” inlet with/without a snorkel.
 
coldtaco said:
What did you do for your air intake/filter housing? Did you use the stock one or did you modify it for a bigger inlet? Been trying to get my engine to run like I am expecting it to, especially compared to all you guys with your glowing reviews of the finished product. Mine is still not quite where I think it should be. I think it needs more air, so thinking of going with a 4” inlet with/without a snorkel.
Click to expand...
Mine is stock. I didn’t get to modifying the lid. I’d like to. I think a 3” mandrel exhaust bend would be
affective piece to make it work. I am happy, but would like to think I could bring the temps down a bit
but by all accounts mine runs as the rest seem to. Don’t forget, I’m running 20 psi under load.
 
GooSe77 said:
I had a set of those and they where crap. After 500km or so the engine was running rough and not round. 1 or 2 injectors where doing stupid stuff. Changed back to my old ones and it was better but not perfekt. I talked to a friend who does a lot with 80s and also for many friends and he also told me that he had 2 engines with the same problem and injectors from there. New injectors and al was OK. Maybe there better now ... they used to be god many years ago.
Click to expand...
cruiserpilot said:
Yeah, the guy who rebuilt my injectors told me to throw them out. Expensive experiment
for me. Another ‘don’t trust eBay’ experience.
Click to expand...


Interesting I've bought 3 sets from the guy and haven't had an issue yet. @bottombracket has these on his engine as well but not really ran in yet.
I do recall when I bought my first ones years ago he offered denso and aftermarket. The denso were in blue stamped denso cases and aftermarket were in unmarked red cases. Now he doesn't offer the option. I also noted my first ones and last two had different proof markings. The first ones being a cursive D which me being the skeptic I am I looked up and confirmed to be a denso mark. If memory serves right.

My first pair I built up myself and had the injection shop check pop pressures on and the last two I just let them handle. He didn't have anything negative to say and my first set have 20k miles on them now.
 
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