1137 Series Complete Engine Build (STIHL MS 192) (2 Viewers)

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D'Animal

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This is a Build Thread on the MS 192 T (Top Handle) and the MS 192 C (Rear Handle)

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

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This build thread is going from a complete running saw, all the way down to the crankshaft out, new piston and then back together to a running saw again.


First thing you do with most repairs is remove the Guide Bar and Saw Chain. If you do not know how to do that, refer to your operators manual.

Depending on what repair you are doing, you generally remove the starter assembly.

Remove the air filter cover, air filter and air filter bas plate. You will be looking at the carburetor.

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Now you will figure out there is wiring and hoses going everywhere.

Remove the inner metal ring from the intake manifold.

Gently grab the edge of the intake manifold push the intake manifold back down the opening towards the engine.

Under the handle housing on the starter side, unplug the black hose that has the ribs on it. This is the fuel hose. It points straight to the engine.

Next unplug the black rubber line without the ribs. It should be pointing sideways straight out towards you.

Unplug the breather and pull it out of the way. There are three snap clips holding it in place but it "pops" right off. I put the Orange air filter cover under the hole so you can see where it comes out of.

With the hoses unplugged, you simply roll the handle assembly over and expose the two wiring connections. Unplug them and set the handle assy off to the side.

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Gently remove the spark plug boot and them remove the spark plug.

The Boot for the top handle saw should look like this one. It has an extra cover over it that acts as a heat dam and keep the hot air out of the carb box.

The next step would be to remove the ignition module. I pulled the module and wiring harness together.

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Next you will remove the clutch assembly.

Use the correct piston stop and the bar wrench or a suitable 13mm sock and breaker bar.

Do NOT use a piece of rope shoved down the spark plug hole. The porting in the cylinder has no room for errors.

The clutch comes off to the right.

If you try to remove it to the left, you will snap the end of the crankshaft off.

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Next you gently remove the intake manifold boot.

I use a bar wrench to pry up on the front of the white housing.

You can completely remove the housing.

Don't Tear or poke a hole in the Intake Boot! You will think you bought the chainsaw all over again if you have to buy one of those.

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With the engine out, it is time to tear it down.

Remove the 4 screws holding the lower engine pan on. Some would call this the lower crankcase.

On the PTO side, use a small Ching A Dera as a lever and "Pop" the casing off.

When reassembling, use Dirko sealant. Some use RTV but unless you have access to some stuff that does not harden, is impervious to petroleum products, impervious to ethanol, and will hold up in both negative and positive pressure environments, just use Dirko.

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The best way to remove the sealant is a dull razor and finish up with a Sotchbrite pad.

The differences between the "T" version cylinder is the groove above the exhaust port. The groove is there to lower the compression on the Easy2Start models.

It is not a design flaw.

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