100s are tough, but elk hurt

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Took 5 minutes. You could do it manually from the online catalogs, but the program your parts guy at the dealer uses allows them to quickly build lists of part numbers, and then I just look up the prices.
Nice! I always find myself looking at parts lists or diagrams then copy/pasting part numbers... It just gets to be tedious.
 
Damn dude!!! Just catching up on this and sorry for that happening. While we dont have elk, we have plenty of deer, always one of my fears going through the mountains, hell the pop out on the street near my house. I live about 6 blocks from the state capital complex and actually watch them use the cross-walks in the morning going to work. Funny s*** to see a deer actually use a crosswalk but also look both ways before crossing. They just know.

Most important thing is the family is ok. The Cruiser, while it would suck to give her up, can be replaced. Anyways, keep us informed on the insurance process, stand strong with them and don't take NO for an answer. They are not in the business of paying out so they will try to get you for as little as possible.
 
So .... is the frame OK?
 
Sorry about the elk and all the work, but I had a question about the tow.

Did AAA actually authorize you guys to ride on the back, or did the driver cut you a break there?

When I called AAA due to a fuel pump issue in a different old car recently, they told me that due to COVID I couldn't ride in the truck with the driver as normal, and that I'd need to find my own way home. Of course this would require making my wife pack up the kids and drive an hour there and back to get me, so I ended up figuring out how to limp it home on my own.
They didn't give me the option of riding on the back, which would've been great.
Now I worry about what would happen if the LC breaks and I have to find a way home for myself, wife, and kids.
 
Sucks dude, I the had same thing happen to me last year, only it was deer not an ELK that's nuts! I can't believe it didn't do more damage than that.

Either way I vote for buy back and rebuild. I think I was offered like $7000 for mine, or a $3600 after buyback...something around those numbers. I bought it back had a body shop bend the fender back and repaint. I bet the frame is fine, probably just need to remove the actual bumper bar, have the rad support bent back (or replaced), they may be able to bend that fender back, I was really surprised with what a competent body shop guy can do. New hood I think was like $700 before paint. I spent like $3800 to get her back on the road with the cost of the TJM full bull bar bumper included.
 
Sorry about the elk and all the work, but I had a question about the tow.

Did AAA actually authorize you guys to ride on the back, or did the driver cut you a break there?

When I called AAA due to a fuel pump issue in a different old car recently, they told me that due to COVID I couldn't ride in the truck with the driver as normal, and that I'd need to find my own way home. Of course this would require making my wife pack up the kids and drive an hour there and back to get me, so I ended up figuring out how to limp it home on my own.
They didn't give me the option of riding on the back, which would've been great.
Now I worry about what would happen if the LC breaks and I have to find a way home for myself, wife, and kids.
Both the tow truck driver and the AZ state trooper authorized us to ride in the cruiser on the back of the flatbed. The trooper said that as long as we were all buckled in then it wasn’t issue. I have no idea what AAA said - the tow truck driver took my info and called AAA; I never talked to AAA.

I don’t know if COVID played a role or not. However, most folks in AZ seem to not really give two s***s about COVID 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Sucks dude, I the had same thing happen to me last year, only it was deer not an ELK that's nuts! I can't believe it didn't do more damage than that.

Either way I vote for buy back and rebuild. I think I was offered like $7000 for mine, or a $3600 after buyback...something around those numbers. I bought it back had a body shop bend the fender back and repaint. I bet the frame is fine, probably just need to remove the actual bumper bar, have the rad support bent back (or replaced), they may be able to bend that fender back, I was really surprised with what a competent body shop guy can do. New hood I think was like $700 before paint. I spent like $3800 to get her back on the road with the cost of the TJM full bull bar bumper included.
Thanks for the info! That’s my general plan - buy back and fix. Sounds like your damage was relatively similar to mine?
 
So .... is the frame OK?
Frame is GOOD! The damn bumper reinforcement behind the Rubbermaid cover isn’t even bent. With the exception of the trans cooler and AC condenser, both of which were cracked on impact, all of the damage appears to be solely body parts (supports, fenders, hood, etc). However, the hood latch mechanism is mangled all to hell and I can’t get the hood open to confirm that everything underneath is good to go. After I get it open, I’ll snap some pics and post.
 
Best investment made was those bright ass ARB lights. Even miles down the road where you don't see visible light the eyes of animals light up like little spots on my radar.
 
If your hood is toast, prybar with the longest cheater pipe you've got. Have at some stress relief!
 
I’ll have to total up my receipts, but a conservative guesstimate is that I’ve installed around $5,000 worth of parts on this thing in just the last year...
Just totaled it up: $8,492.82 on PARTS between July 2019 and July 2020 :oops: . I did all of the work, so 100% of the labor costs were on the house...

I'm in way too deep to not buy this thing back if they total it.
 
Just totaled it up: $8,492.82 on PARTS between July 2019 and July 2020 :oops:. I did all of the work, so 100% of the labor costs were on the house...

I'm in way too deep to not buy this thing back if they total it.
Is any of that cost maintenance? Personally, I consider maintenance costs to be unrecoverable costs.
 
Is any of that cost maintenance? Personally, I consider maintenance costs to be unrecoverable costs.
I wouldn't have thought that was possible - must have been one hell of a refresh.
98% of those parts were maintenance. Basically the parts costs to truly baseline a cheap 100 that had been neglected by PO after the warranty expired (Original owner was asking $7500 but I got them down to $4000, so I’m at around $12k all in). But good chance that this thing would mechanically last another 200k miles with comparatively minimal additional maintenance costs.

Insurance company’s inspector was just here. He does not think the adjuster will total it. He priced out new OEM replacement parts and was at 90% of 70% of the total valuation. As long as the costs to fix stay below 70% of the total value of the vehicle then it will not be totaled; 70-80% of total value would be a coin toss; over 80% would be totaled vehicle.
 
That's good news!
 

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