100s are tough, but elk hurt (1 Viewer)

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98% of those parts were maintenance. Basically the parts costs to truly baseline a cheap 100 that had been neglected by PO after the warranty expired (Original owner was asking $7500 but I got them down to $4000, so I’m at around $12k all in). But good chance that this thing would mechanically last another 200k miles with comparatively minimal additional maintenance costs.

Insurance company’s inspector was just here. He does not think the adjuster will total it. He priced out new OEM replacement parts and was at 90% of 70% of the total valuation. As long as the costs to fix stay below 70% of the total value of the vehicle then it will not be totaled; 70-80% of total value would be a coin toss; over 80% would be totaled vehicle.
Good luck with the adjuster 👍 hope he/she is in a good mood.

Oops, didn't see you post about the good news, but still hope you have good luck with getting your 100 fixed.
 
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I was notified this morning that the Insurance company has officially decided to NOT total the jalopy

View attachment 2394873

No idea what payout will be to fix it yet, but they did value the truck as being worth $9k 😁

Dang man, what insurance company do you have? I had less damage than that and now have a "rebuilt" title. I was never going to sell it so that's kinda ok (except for now it ain't worth s*** to the insurance) but I was really pissed on having to pay the sales tax again to "buy " it back from the insurance company

Mine was a 99, with 175k miles but everything was in great condition. The insurance and the body shop commented on how great it looked, and I think they valued it at like 8k....and totaled it with a bent fender and rad support, busted bumper, headlight and grill, and slightly bent hood.
 
I was notified this morning that the Insurance company has officially decided to NOT total the jalopy

View attachment 2394873

No idea what payout will be to fix it yet, but they did value the truck as being worth $9k 😁
I think the guy is dancing because he got his non-LC rig to actually start
 
Dang man, what insurance company do you have? I had less damage than that and now have a "rebuilt" title. I was never going to sell it so that's kinda ok (except for now it ain't worth s*** to the insurance) but I was really pissed on having to pay the sales tax again to "buy " it back from the insurance company

Mine was a 99, with 175k miles but everything was in great condition. The insurance and the body shop commented on how great it looked, and I think they valued it at like 8k....and totaled it with a bent fender and rad support, busted bumper, headlight and grill, and slightly bent hood.
I have Liberty Mutual. Sounds like my damage was more severe than yours. Perhaps the $1k valuation difference between the two played a role? I was told that if the costs to fix are at or below 70% of the total value of the vehicle then it’s nearly guaranteed to be fixed instead of totaled. Although, I’m guessing that may be specific to my insurance company and not a generalization across companies.
 
In Oregon, you can keep that elk. Small consolation for the rig damage, but good eating.
Can do the same here in AZ if the LE officer will give you a salvage permit. He did not give me one though.
 
Can do the same here in AZ if the LE officer will give you a salvage permit. He did not give me one though.

In Florida the deputy just shrugged and said "yeah take it if you want it"

it blows my mind a state wouldn't let you
 
In Florida the deputy just shrugged and said "yeah take it if you want it"

it blows my mind a state wouldn't let you
Laws differ substantially among states. In most eastern states, including FL, anybody can collect and keep roadkill without a license or permit as long as the animal is not a threatened or endangered species. In contrast, in many western states, including AZ and NM, only the driver of the vehicle that hit the animal can collect and keep roadkill; however, the driver must first obtain a salvage permit, the issuance of which is solely at the discretion of the law enforcement officer who is present on the scene. There are multiple factors that the officer is required by law to consider when making said decision, including the species, sex and age of the species, potential for the animal to harbor zoonotic diseases, circumstances of the collision, and safety while enacting the salvage. In some other western states, nobody can collect any roadkill at all.
 
Laws differ substantially among states. In most eastern states, including FL, anybody can collect and keep roadkill without a license or permit as long as the animal is not a threatened or endangered species. In contrast, in many western states, including AZ and NM, only the driver of the vehicle that hit the animal can collect and keep roadkill; however, the driver must first obtain a salvage permit, the issuance of which is solely at the discretion of the law enforcement officer who is present on the scene. There are multiple factors that the officer is required by law to consider when making said decision, including the species, sex and age of the species, potential for the animal to harbor zoonotic diseases, circumstances of the collision, and safety while enacting the salvage. In some other western states, nobody can collect any roadkill at all.

And in NV if you hit a nice bull or buck, you sure as hell are not going to be taking the rack home.

So what are you going to do for the new front bumper?
 
And in NV if you hit a nice bull or buck, you sure as hell are not going to be taking the rack home.

So what are you going to do for the new front bumper?

I wanted to get the rack off the buck I hit (it was busted on one side from the hit) and put it in my garage but I forgot after spending an hour in the ditch getting the back straps and quarters skinned out .
 
And in NV if you hit a nice bull or buck, you sure as hell are not going to be taking the rack home.

So what are you going to do for the new front bumper?
I think Nevada law prevents anyone from collecting any roadkill wildlife, regardless of species, correct? You can't keep anything in NV.

Front bumper: Plan to upgrade to an aftermarket unit, but I've not yet decided which one. Leaning towards the ARB Deluxe or TJM T13 to retain airbag function while having the full coverage bull bar to help prevent catastrophic destruction of radiator/engine in the event of another large mammal collision. However, after having the aforementioned mangled Bluberry in my possession for a few weeks and seeing its robustness, I'd be a liar if I said it wasn't in the running (despite knowing it is overkill for my intended usage of the 100). I've also toyed with the idea of cheaping out and getting the T17, then having a bullbar welded on. I've had a T17 on one of my 4Runners for years and it has served me well being bashed into rocks and trees while wheeling (no animal strikes tho). But at that point, might as well just get the T13 or ARB...
 
I think Nevada law prevents anyone from collecting any roadkill wildlife, regardless of species, correct? You can't keep anything in NV.

Front bumper: Plan to upgrade to an aftermarket unit, but I've not yet decided which one. Leaning towards the ARB Deluxe or TJM T13 to retain airbag function while having the full coverage bull bar to help prevent catastrophic destruction of radiator/engine in the event of another large mammal collision. However, after having the aforementioned mangled Bluberry in my possession for a few weeks and seeing its robustness, I'd be a liar if I said it wasn't in the running (despite knowing it is overkill for my intended usage of the 100). I've also toyed with the idea of cheaping out and getting the T17, then having a bullbar welded on. I've had a T17 on one of my 4Runners for years and it has served me well being bashed into rocks and trees while wheeling (no animal strikes tho). But at that point, might as well just get the T13 or ARB...

Yes, NV is pretty strict. I have heard that if you call NDOW they will sometimes let you salvage the meat, but you can't take anything else. NV is also strict on sheep deadheads. I found one last year and had to jump through some hoops to keep it but ultimately got NDOW approval.

Blueberry is a beast and aesthetically pleasing too. Look at some of the offerings from Dissent Offroad. Great designs, well built, and modular. Also have option of either steel or aluminum. Looking forward to following the rebuild/resurrection.
 
Front bumper: Plan to upgrade to an aftermarket unit, but I've not yet decided which one. Leaning towards the ARB Deluxe or TJM T13 to retain airbag function while having the full coverage bull bar to help prevent catastrophic destruction of radiator/engine in the event of another large mammal collision.

FYI that Ironman is available for pre-order. My research shows that Ironman has almost everything all others may offer, and good looking IMO. Right now the on-sale price of $999 of last week is gone on their website. However, you may still get them to honor it by contacting them directly, maybe without the promotion of free set of 7" LED lights. That's, $999 shipped! Unbeatable overall features/performance/price. I still have the screenshot of the promotional price if you need.

Good luck.
 
FYI that Ironman is available for pre-order. My research shows that Ironman has almost everything all others may offer, and good looking IMO. Right now the on-sale price of $999 of last week is gone on their website. However, you may still get them to honor it by contacting them directly, maybe without the promotion of free set of 7" LED lights. That's, $999 shipped! Unbeatable overall features/performance/price. I still have the screenshot of the promotional price if you need.

Good luck.
Thanks for chiming in. After talking with @Somebodyelse5 and @knewstance the other day, the Ironman quickly jumped to the top of my list.
 
Not going to start a separate build thread, given this is just a repairing/rebuilding of damage, so all work will be covered in this thread. Perhaps others in the future will stumble on it and can gain some insight about what to do or not do, the latter of which will undoubtedly have plenty of examples.

That’s because this will be a “poor man’s” repair, such that my current plan is to avoid a body shop until the paint stage...even then I may have the guy who lives down the street, but is from south of the border, do a paint job for straight cash and no terms. My 100 was never a show truck and I have zero intentions for it to ever be showroom quality. As long as everything fits pretty good and the paint matches moderately well and doesn’t flake off, then I’m good. I also have zero experience with body work so I have no idea what I’m doing and will surely screw up something. Open to any and all advice from those of you with body work experience.

With that said, I hit a major score yesterday and got many of the high price or difficult to find items that I need for dirt cheap off a 100 that’s being parted out because of a cancerous frame (not an original AZ truck). Not sure if the owner is on here, but his name is Neil and he’s a super nice guy who has another 100 and also a 150 series. Thanks to @medtro for the tip on finding this truck.

@knewstance and I paid Neil a visit yesterday morning, and after pulling the complete dash in good condition for knewstance to replace his cracked and peeling dash, we got to work on getting the stuff I needed. Took us most of the day to get my stuff, primarily because of the numerous spot welds that had to be drilled out to get the upper and lower radiator supports and both side radiator/headlight supports all off as one cohesive piece rather than 4-6 separate pieces. Thanks @knewstance

I won’t divulge how much I paid for all of these parts, but I will say that I got everything for 75% less than what the total cost new would’ve been, based on the list provided by @Njck22 earlier in this thread (100s are tough, but elk hurt) 😎

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If not having a body shop install this support assembly is a terrible idea, then please stop me before I load up @Somebodyelse5 with beer and let him go to town spot welding 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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That’s because this will be a “poor man’s” repair, such that my current plan is to avoid a body shop until the paint stage...even then I may have the guy who lives down the street, but is from south of the border, do a paint job for straight cash and no terms.
Relevant?
 
Relevant?
Some of the best paint jobs I’ve seen in AZ were done by guys who are from south of the border but do not work for a formal body/paint shop. Perhaps pure coincidence, perhaps not.
 
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