100 Skid Plate Option

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ShottsUZJ100 said:
Very, very nice. So nice!

Too bad sales will be non-existant as 100-series can't really wheel on the tough trails (as so many experts on this forum say). I guess your sales will tell. If 100's can wheel you'll sell these.


Hmmmm......I wonder if you'll sell any? :D
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I'll consider them because you never know when an animal will cross over in front of you on my way to Starbucks!
 
Wanted to update this thread. We now offer the front and intermediate plate in aluminum. The plates are made from 3/16" 5052 aluminum plate. The weight savings over the steel units are 43lbs. They are supplied in black powder coat.

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sleeoffroad said:
Wanted to update this thread. We now offer the front and intermediate plate in aluminum. The plates are made from 3/16" 5052 aluminum plate. The weight savings over the steel units are 43lbs. They are supplied in black powder coat.

sof1157-350.jpg
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AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will be getting some before long. The thing that has stopped me from buying skid plates were the weight.
I'm guessing y'all have tested it's durability? How about a tranny plate?
 
Cool! and these will actually fit on a 100 without the need for a hack job. I still wouldn't want Al under my truck but think they are a great option for an overlanding / lightly wheeled truck.
 
BBQ BOY said:
AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will be getting some before long. The thing that has stopped me from buying skid plates were the weight.
I'm guessing y'all have tested it's durability? How about a tranny plate?
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Belly plate can not be aluminum due to strength issues. We have done limited testing with an earlier aluminum version. It is not intended for hardcore rock crawling, but should be strong enough for the expo crowd.
 
sleeoffroad said:
Wanted to update this thread. We now offer the front and intermediate plate in aluminum. The plates are made from 3/16" 5052 aluminum plate. The weight savings over the steel units are 43lbs. They are supplied in black powder coat.
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Did you cut a hole for the tranny drain this time?
 
jasonbraswell said:
Did you cut a hole for the tranny drain this time?
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We did not. The tranny drain is above the intermediate guard that is only 5 bolts to remove it, and since the interval for doing the transmission is so long, it is not a big deal. Also, we recommend a fluid exchange that is done with a machine vs a drain and fill. With a drain and fill you get very little fluid replaced.

With the fluid exchange we hook to the lines up front
 
sleeoffroad said:
We did not. The tranny drain is above the intermediate guard that is only 5 bolts to remove it, and since the interval for doing the transmission is so long, it is not a big deal. Also, we recommend a fluid exchange that is done with a machine vs a drain and fill. With a drain and fill you get very little fluid replaced.

With the fluid exchange we hook to the lines up front
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[OFF TOPIC]

What interval do you recommend these maintenance free 5 speed autos have the fluid exchanged?

[/OFF TOPIC]
 
Yeah, I will have to find a local shop that has one.
Dealer and local LC mechanics always drain and fill.
One guy drops the pan every time...

My '99 toyota manual ask for a drain and fill every 30k miles.

BTW- I am super happy with the steel skids from the holiday sale.
Did you keep the pocket support in the front guard for the AL plate?

sleeoffroad said:
We did not. The tranny drain is above the intermediate guard that is only 5 bolts to remove it, and since the interval for doing the transmission is so long, it is not a big deal. Also, we recommend a fluid exchange that is done with a machine vs a drain and fill. With a drain and fill you get very little fluid replaced.

With the fluid exchange we hook to the lines up front
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... and in with the new! Went with all steel. Everything fit well with no extra grinding. Good access holes to most of the important stuff. I especially like that most of the bolts are recessed as one of my bolts had sheared off prior.

Also liked the fact the belly plate replaced my old crossmember, which was bent up.
1.webp
2.webp
3.webp
 
Did you install the rivets on the belly plate? If so, any trouble drilling and installing the rivet ?
 
Yes, I drilled three holes in the frame with a step bit and installed the supplied rivet-nuts. No trouble at all. Initially used an air gun and then finished off with a socket wrench.
 
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Looks good hoser! For the trails you do/have done I'm surprised you didn't fold the OEM t-case "protector" (:rolleyes:) into the t-case!

Peace of mind for you now!
 
Wondering if anyone has tried to remove the transfer case fill plug with the slee belly plate on?? I took a shot at it today and just don't see enough room to get a wrench in there. There is plenty of room for the drain plug removal and I changed the front diff fluids with the skid plates on. Just curious how others handled the transfer case fluid changes.
 
jasonbraswell said:
Wondering if anyone has tried to remove the transfer case fill plug with the slee belly plate on?? I took a shot at it today and just don't see enough room to get a wrench in there. There is plenty of room for the drain plug removal and I changed the front diff fluids with the skid plates on. Just curious how others handled the transfer case fluid changes.
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I use a flex socket and an extension to get to the filler plug bolt. Then a transfer type pump with a long enough piece of plastic hose to get the filler hose to the fill port from the rear edge of the skid/belly pan.
 
spressomon said:
I use a flex socket and an extension to get to the filler plug bolt. Then a transfer type pump with a long enough piece of plastic hose to get the filler hose to the fill port from the rear edge of the skid/belly pan.
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I did the same thing but had my wife reach in to replace the fill plug.
 
@ Christo, what is the current pricing on the steel and aluminum sets?

Also, I have the Borla Cat-back exhaust, is there a conflict between your belly plate and the Borla? I think Loud has stated that there is.
 
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