100 Skid Plate Option (1 Viewer)

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The tentative pricing is $465 for the belly plate. We can supply an install kit for $75 that consists of rivet nuts, rivet nut tool (wrench type) and the correct drill bit (13.5mm)

The belly plate bolts to the existing cross member location and one other captive nut on the frame. Three holes need to be drilled and rivnuts need to be installed. We did not include the tool as we first thought we would since some people already have them.

The belly plate replaces the factory cross member.

The intermediate plate is $215 and the front plate is $375.
 
The tentative pricing is $465 for the belly plate. We can supply an install kit for $75 that consists of rivet nuts, rivet nut tool (wrench type) and the correct drill bit (13.5mm)

The belly plate bolts to the existing cross member location and one other captive nut on the frame. Three holes need to be drilled and rivnuts need to be installed. We did not include the tool as we first thought we would since some people already have them.

The belly plate replaces the factory cross member.

The intermediate plate is $215 and the front plate is $375.

What's your GUESS as to what these 3 plates will weigh?
 
can you mix and match? Like put the front and middle one on without the rear?

or just the front one?
 
The only one you can not run on it's own will be the intermediate.

gotcha. Well I'll probably do the front one and then eventually add the other two. Is there any negative towards adding the diff drop on an AHC equipped vehicle?
 
Good you didn't mention it today on the phone or I would have gotten in trouble with the wife.
 
3/16 is a little on the thin side..... I figured at least 1/4".
 
I have bent the s*** out of several skid plates over the years. None seem to hold up to the front end of the truck sitting on em. Factory skid plates..... Gotta go thick or go home.
 
Looks awesome!

Now I'm looking forward to "hear" what the whole package price are and see if it gives me the chills or not.

Cheers,

I think the chills are in order.....
:popcorn:
 
1) I feel 3/16" is perfect for what I need and what 95% of users will need.

2) The prices are very fair. No chills here.

3) Thank you for bringing these products to market!

4) Do the plates really need so many holes?
 
Actually I only get the goosebumps, not chill because at last there is a 100 series skid plates on the market, not "homebrewed"!

The 3/16" thick is about right since any each 1/4" skid plate will easily over 100 lbs easily.

It is just my opinion, the skid plates is mean to be a sacrifice item. If the skid plate is whacked & bended out of shape, the functional of the rigs is not affected during the runs. After the dust settled, the skid plates can be hammered back on the driveway if needed.

Cheers,
 
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Actually I only get the goosebumps, not chill because at last there is a 100 series skid plates on the market, not "homebrewed"!

The 3/16" thick is about right since any each 1/4" skid plate will easily over 100 lbs easily.

It is just my opoiun, the skid plates is mean to be a sacrifice item. If the skid plate is whacked & bended of if shape, the functional of the rigs is not affected during the runs. After the dust settled, the skid plates can be hammered back on the driveway after the runs if needed.

Cheers,


X 2 Jay! Maybe for an 80 and certainly 40 & 60's 1/4" would make sense given the types of terrain they are capable of going over (this comment is NOT meant to incite a riot of comments/conjecture from 'the peanut gallery'...its just MY opinion :rolleyes:).

For my use I would even, assuming cost was not too high, entertain 1/4" hardened aluminum for my pans. Although I have a few scars on my 6061T6 t-case plate most of my needs for belly and front skid plate protection are for lighter duty uses where the potential weight savings of aluminum would be more interesting to me. The t-case/tranny pan/support needs to be steel...it hangs down and gets wacked...and it would be cost prohibitive to fab out of aluminum anyway.
 
Considering the factory one is 0.045" thick, I think 0.1875" is thick enough. More than 4 times the thickness. Also a lot of strength is gained by design and not just by simple increasing metal thickness. We can also up the metal grade, but then you will have bigger chills.

Anything can be bent, but it is a skid plate (wrongly named) that is there to protect the truck's components. 100 's don't skid, so it is not really a skid plate. More of an heavy duty protection plate that can not be pierced or deformed enough to damage components on the truck.

As for price, it is what it is. If you saw the flat patterns layed on on sheets you would understand the amount of material that it takes. Unfortunately labor and metal is expensive, so one tries to have a balance between labor, (i.e. weld seams) and material costs.

If we were planning to make 100 of these in a month, then it could be done cheaper, but the market is just not that big.
 
Cory has it right, the holes are for cooling, access, weight reduction, cleaning and preventing a mud build-up. However we can easily change it if we find there are to many or it compromises strength.
 
The belly pan has to be steel. The intermediate and front plate can be aluminum however with the price increases of aluminum they will be expensive. That is an option we can look into.
 
Cory has it right, the holes are for cooling, access, weight reduction, cleaning and preventing a mud build-up. However we can easily change it if we find there are to many or it compromises strength.


Christo: I suspect it would not be affordable given the small unit production run/market to punch/stamp the holes so that a ridge of material is left surrounding the back side of the punched hole enhancing/adding rigidity/strength? Sorry...that's not a very good explanation and I am lacking for the proper term for this type of construction.
 
Are you talking about dimple dies? Like this
JMR Dimple Dies at Van Sant Enterprises, Inc.

3/16" is pretty big to do this too. It is mostly done with thinner material to give it more strength.


Yes...exactly. Would this method of fabrication allow you to go thinner than 3/16" (assuming this method increases the overall rigidity)? Is this method of fabrication cost effective for small production runs? Inquiring minds want to know ;).
 

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