100 series timing belt replacement cost? (4 Viewers)

[2020 Rocks]

Just a little personal experience based advice here: If you tackle it yourself and you're planning on being thorough, I think you should count on longer than a weekend. You could do it in a weekend if all goes well, but you're probably going to break something or discover a worn out part that needs replacement and have to sit and wait.

I broke the water neck because the previous mechanic used a sealant that glued the male neck into the female outlet. I spent hours on it before breaking out the pry bar. I got some movement (fractions of a mm) but then the pry bar was too much and the neck fractured. I had to chisel the neck out. I also discovered a few bad bearings along the way (fan bracket and one other) and noticed my radiator had some cracking.

Unless you're ordering ~$1500 in OEM parts ahead of time, it's real easy to run into a few needed parts you didn't think to have on hand and that will cause you a delay until at least the next business day.

Thank you for the advice, but I've definitely had jobs that went sideways leaving me waiting for the UPS guy to deliver that one last thing. I work from home primarily, and the few days a month that I do head in to the office I can commute with my wife, so if I experience mission creep it'll be ok. Still would like to pay someone else if I can find a decent deal. Decisions, decisions.

 

[gregnash]

So one of the trucks that I had been looking at needed the TB/WP service on it. Called the two local Toyota Dealership along with an independent shop in the area that gets good reviews on yelp, google, etc. and has had good word of mouth reviews. All of them were consistent with the service quotes, potentially $1200-$1800 depending on all what needs replacement. Both of the Toyota dealerships, the one here in Carson that we have dealt with for YEARS and has a great rep, said that just TB/WP would be about the $1200, but they go through and evaluate anything that is a "while you are in there" component such as tensioners, pulleys, serpentine belt, hoses, etc. and see what kind of shape they are in. From that point they then send you an evaluation report to see what all "needs" to be done, what is recommended, and what is something that is a good component while they are in there but not crucial. Also, this dealership send short videos via text message (if you authorize it) of things they come across. They did this on the last oil change of our 4Runner letting us know that the steering rack was starting to weep and that the front diff had a slight leak. Both said that they would need to be taken care of in the future but were not of "pressing concern" at this time.

Kinda like that extra service. When the time comes for the new TB/WP for my truck I will likely have the dealership do it, that way if something does end up happening I can have them to fall back on.

 

[bigredmachine]

So one of the trucks that I had been looking at needed the TB/WP service on it. Called the two local Toyota Dealership along with an independent shop in the area that gets good reviews on yelp, google, etc. and has had good word of mouth reviews. All of them were consistent with the service quotes, potentially $1200-$1800 depending on all what needs replacement. Both of the Toyota dealerships, the one here in Carson that we have dealt with for YEARS and has a great rep, said that just TB/WP would be about the $1200, but they go through and evaluate anything that is a "while you are in there" component such as tensioners, pulleys, serpentine belt, hoses, etc. and see what kind of shape they are in. From that point they then send you an evaluation report to see what all "needs" to be done, what is recommended, and what is something that is a good component while they are in there but not crucial. Also, this dealership send short videos via text message (if you authorize it) of things they come across. They did this on the last oil change of our 4Runner letting us know that the steering rack was starting to weep and that the front diff had a slight leak. Both said that they would need to be taken care of in the future but were not of "pressing concern" at this time.

Kinda like that extra service. When the time comes for the new TB/WP for my truck I will likely have the dealership do it, that way if something does end up happening I can have them to fall back on.

those quotes are pretty spot on, that's about what we charge for doing the tb/wp. similarly unless its requested before the work begins we will also check the idlers and tensioner as the belt is coming off and give an update on the price if needed.

doing just the timing belt and d-belt should be in the 600-750 range if someone was just looking to do the minimum

 

[2020 Rocks]

Another dealer quote came in at $1395.00 for tb and wp. A couple left to check in the area.

 

[fro20fow]

Anyone know how common it is for the dealers to replace tensions, idlers, pulleys etc. as part of 180k TB/WP service?

 

[rva4x4]

Curious as well, as local Lexus dealer was $933 if I supply the Aisin parts (which on amazon are about $160 for TB/WP) versus non dealership shop that does cruiser work $600 if I supply the parts. Though in fairness I didn't know about asking for the other details, just said 90k service with TB and WP replacement. If they supply parts, cost goes up about 400 and 300 respectively but they warranty parts.

Aisin TKT-021 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump
by AISIN
4.5 out of 5 stars 372 ratings

| 95 answered questions

Amazon's Choicefor "timing"

Price:

$163.44 FREE One-Day& FREE Returns

 

[abuck99]

Ok guys- @suprarx7nut has contributed some really good info. I’ll add that if your vehicle is 180k miles + DIY is a full 2days (maybe into day 3 )if you are doing a thorough TB procedure- includes replacing a long list of interrelated components as PM. Thats assuming everything comes apart perfectly. Generally teardown one day; then assemble & fill burp coolant the next, allowing your sealant to cure overnight. Keep in mind what you save $$ in labor on a DIY job, you can put towards additional PM parts & maybe some fancy tools.

That brings me to the next point- Reporting/posting a TB service $ price is useless unless you also post the work order details: parts included replaced and labor hours. Otherwise there’s no way to objectively compare one price against the other because the scope of work differs widely from one dealer or service shop to the next.

 

[3_puppies]

Anyone know how common it is for the dealers to replace tensions, idlers, pulleys etc. as part of 180k TB/WP service?

not sure on what dealers do, but for me, especially if you don't have much for records, change all the hoses, heater T's and all idlers and tensioners, fan bracket also. I do most of my own work and it doesn't take hardly anymore time to install an new idler or tensioner than it is to re-install the old one, it's just the cost of the part.
same with the upper and lower rad hoses, unless they were just changed, put new ones on
to me it's a no brainer and you'll be good for another 100,000 miles

That brings me to the next point- Reporting/posting a TB service $ price is useless unless you also post the work order details: parts included replaced and labor hours. Otherwise there’s no way to objectively compare one price against the other because the scope of work differs widely from one dealer or service shop to the next.

X2 to above,

 

[fro20fow]

Thanks. I'm wondering how crucial it is to change those parts. I see a lot of high mileage cruisers that appear to have not had those extras replaced so I'm guessing those components are built to last.

 

[3_puppies]

Thanks. I'm wondering how crucial it is to change those parts. I see a lot of high mileage cruisers that appear to have not had those extras replaced so I'm guessing those components are built to last.

changing parts that haven't failed is up to you.
having my wife broke down on the highway because the fan bracket broke and the fan took the radiator out and NEVER hear the end of it
losing a rad hose or a heater T and overheating the engine
etc, etc
do you change the oil regularly? why?
do you re-pack the wheel bearings? why?
I'd rather change all that stuff and not have an issue for 100,000 miles

 

[fro20fow]

Valid points - It makes sense to change out old parts to help prevent failures. For example, changing out a radiator, starter, or alternator every 100k miles is probably a good idea if the goal is to prevent failure and chance of highway breakdown.

Not questioning whether someone should or should not replace something but rather looking to find out how often the dealership replaces these components as part as the 180k TB service. If not done at TB service then many of these trucks with 250k miles are still rolling with original parts.

It’s a good data point to have. Just like knowing how many trucks with 200k miles still have original radiator.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Valid points - It makes sense to change out old parts to help prevent failures. For example, changing out a radiator, starter, or alternator every 100k miles is probably a good idea if the goal is to prevent failure and chance of highway breakdown.

Not questioning whether someone should or should not replace something but rather looking to find out how often the dealership replaces these components as part as the 180k TB service. If not done at TB service then many of these trucks with 250k miles are still rolling with original parts.

It’s a good data point to have. Just like knowing how many trucks with 200k miles still have original radiator.

I think you've got the right mindset. It's all about your priorities. If you're a single dude, using the rig to commute to a job where an unexpected tardy morning is fine, or trail driving with a group, the rare failure of a critical component is probably no biggie. It might just make for an extra bit of "adventure".

If you're trying to push the limits of what your family can tolerate regarding off-road adventures, you probably want to do everything you can to avoid an unexpected breakdown. This is where I'm at. I love road-tripping and off-roading, but my wife will lose all appetite for it if we're stuck with our 2 year old on the shoulder or on a trail. That's a big part of why you'll see me going overboard on preventative maintenance.

I think most items on the 100 will withstand a HUGE amount of neglect. Coming from the mk3 Supra world, it's astounding how reliable these rigs are. You could opt to replace fluids and heater tees only and probably get a solid 200k reliable miles before anything significant would go wrong. That's not at all the case with most other vehicles.

 

[Mbchance]

I think you've got the right mindset. It's all about your priorities. If you're a single dude, using the rig to commute to a job where an unexpected tardy morning is fine, or trail driving with a group, the rare failure of a critical component is probably no biggie. It might just make for an extra bit of "adventure".

If you're trying to push the limits of what your family can tolerate regarding off-road adventures, you probably want to do everything you can to avoid an unexpected breakdown. This is where I'm at. I love road-tripping and off-roading, but my wife will lose all appetite for it if we're stuck with our 2 year old on the shoulder or on a trail. That's a big part of why you'll see me going overboard on preventative maintenance.

I think most items on the 100 will withstand a HUGE amount of neglect. Coming from the mk3 Supra world, it's astounding how reliable these rigs are. You could opt to replace fluids and heater tees only and probably get a solid 200k reliable miles before anything significant would go wrong. That's not at all the case with most other vehicles.

I agree wholeheartedly with this statement!

I'm also in the group of changing out those "while you're in there" parts due to the fact that I plan on keeping this vehicle for another 150k miles at least. I know that eventually, those parts will need to be changed. Might as well take care of them now knowing my rig is already 12 years old and is approaching 150k miles. ( I know, low mileage comparatively speaking)

If you have the means and plan on keeping your rig for the indefinite future, I'd recommend taking care of those "other" components while it's already being torn into. Most mechanics will just charge for the extra cost of the part since and you will save on the back end not having to pay for the whole labor costs of pulling everything off again. It's worth it IMO.

 

[gregnash]

I think there really are two types of people for this type of stuff...
- those that will do the "while you're in there" items just because it is an ease of access type thing. And
- those that will say "eh, it looks fine." and go about their business.

As someone that truly does not understand the concept of most people in the world purchasing a BRAND NEW vehicle (really what's the point unless you got money burning a hole in your pocket) I always purchase used vehicles with the mindset that it will always be mine and run into the ground. Thus, replace everything as needed and use the highest quality parts that you can afford. Maybe that is the analytics and Project Management side of me, but really I live by the adage of "If you don't have the time/money to do it right the first time. You better have the time/money to do it a 2nd, 3rd or however many times until you do it right."

Yes sometimes there are certain things that are cost prohibitive. Like for instance, I just purchased my truck, spent pretty much my entire wad on it that I made from the sale of my 60. As I am going through the truck and doing my own baseline of the vehicle I am coming more and more to the conclusion that the PO I purchased from really just had it sit in his driveway and MAYBE took it out once a month. Things were handled as they came up but he really never used the vehicle. I am also of the opinion that he thought he was going to be all for the whole overlanding/4wheeling/offroading thing and really was not (call it being a city boy if you like). So while the truck in functional and mechanically sound for the most part I am finding things that were neglected.
Like:
- Heater T's have never been replaced. So that is $200 for that kit and fluid and a few hours of time.
- Been a long time since the driveshafts and u-joints were greased, so that is an hours worth of time and a few buck in grease and a needle head for the grease gun to get to all the nipples.
- Has the normal R-D clunk indicative of the front diff bushings being shot. That is another $200 is parts plus what looks like a good few hours to remove.
- Lift was installed but no diff drop. Since it is only a 1.5" lift, the diff drop isn't necessary but would save the axles some grief (more on that). That is an optional $250 plus an hour of my time.
- Upper ball joints are shot, boots torn, etc. That is $120 for the kit (both upper and lower, both sides) plus probably a good 4hrs. of time.
- Starter has intermittent dead spot meaning needs to be replaced or pulled and brushes replaced. Depending on which way I go with that, I am looking at $130 for a Denso reman'd starter and 4-6hrs. of time. Local shop quotes are right around $700 for everything. (new brushes kit is like $45)
- Headlights were replaced at some point by him (handed me an ebay HID kit that he said he purchased, tried to install and realized he did not purchase all the proper ignitors and everything to do the install) and installed improperly so lights were pointing at the ground, brackets on the back were deformed because he just jammed them in and one was so misshapen by the force used to try and get it in that I almost had to cut out. That was $75 for new high and low beam lamps.
- Now because of the above lift and no diff drop, CV Axles were installed in 2018 with cheapo replacements. Guess what is making noise now and groaning once I hit about 60mph on the freeway. Yup, so on top of that I don't believe they were installed properly by the shop so the diff side is weeping (PS is bad enough that the diff is wet). Both axles will need to be replaced in the near future, depending on which way I go, decent quality aftermarkets are going to be $100/ea. (Cardone HD axles) to $385 (CVJ Reman'd Toyotas with HD boots) or at least $400 for OEM. Then that will be 4-8hrs of time for me to replace.
- On top of the CV Axle fun, the other clunk that is happening is the hub flanges being warn and not replaced when the axles were done. So for all the parts that are needed for that and the hope that the splines are not destroyed on the current axles because I don't have the scratch to replace everything at once (axles and hub flanges), I am looking at $200 for the parts and a good few hours of time and greasing everything again (because I doubt the shop did it properly).

So just in things that NEED to be handled soon here, I am looking at over $1000 worth of stuff, me doing all of it because the PO decided he wanted to cheap out and not handle the "while you're in there" stuff or treat the vehicle as a long term investment. Judging from this guys "new" vehicle, what his wife drives and everything else, there was no lack of having the funds to handle the stuff, it was more he just didn't want to. So now I am stuck with the bill for a vehicle that was supposed to be in great condition only to reveal its true colors the deeper I went. Now, I get to spend money on this stuff instead of doing fun things like putting in a new stereo system, searching for new rims that I like, or doing other fun stuff with it. Instead I somehow picked up another project vehicle.

And oh yeah, timing belt will probably be thrown in there in about a year or so. Can't find documentation showing when it was last done and radiator seems to be new Denso so stickers are gone. That kinda of cost was accounted for but now I get to handle all that other garbage first as that is a bit more pressing (do have documentation that belts were replaced in 2016 on Toyota, but they didn't say WHAT belts).

 

[suprarx7nut]

I think there really are two types of people for this type of stuff...
- those that will do the "while you're in there" items just because it is an ease of access type thing. And
- those that will say "eh, it looks fine." and go about their business.

As someone that truly does not understand the concept of most people in the world purchasing a BRAND NEW vehicle (really what's the point unless you got money burning a hole in your pocket) I always purchase used vehicles with the mindset that it will always be mine and run into the ground. Thus, replace everything as needed and use the highest quality parts that you can afford. Maybe that is the analytics and Project Management side of me, but really I live by the adage of "If you don't have the time/money to do it right the first time. You better have the time/money to do it a 2nd, 3rd or however many times until you do it right."

Yes sometimes there are certain things that are cost prohibitive. Like for instance, I just purchased my truck, spent pretty much my entire wad on it that I made from the sale of my 60. As I am going through the truck and doing my own baseline of the vehicle I am coming more and more to the conclusion that the PO I purchased from really just had it sit in his driveway and MAYBE took it out once a month. Things were handled as they came up but he really never used the vehicle. I am also of the opinion that he thought he was going to be all for the whole overlanding/4wheeling/offroading thing and really was not (call it being a city boy if you like). So while the truck in functional and mechanically sound for the most part I am finding things that were neglected.
Like:
- Heater T's have never been replaced. So that is $200 for that kit and fluid and a few hours of time.
- Been a long time since the driveshafts and u-joints were greased, so that is an hours worth of time and a few buck in grease and a needle head for the grease gun to get to all the nipples.
- Has the normal R-D clunk indicative of the front diff bushings being shot. That is another $200 is parts plus what looks like a good few hours to remove.
- Lift was installed but no diff drop. Since it is only a 1.5" lift, the diff drop isn't necessary but would save the axles some grief (more on that). That is an optional $250 plus an hour of my time.
- Upper ball joints are shot, boots torn, etc. That is $120 for the kit (both upper and lower, both sides) plus probably a good 4hrs. of time.
- Starter has intermittent dead spot meaning needs to be replaced or pulled and brushes replaced. Depending on which way I go with that, I am looking at $130 for a Denso reman'd starter and 4-6hrs. of time. Local shop quotes are right around $700 for everything. (new brushes kit is like $45)
- Headlights were replaced at some point by him (handed me an ebay HID kit that he said he purchased, tried to install and realized he did not purchase all the proper ignitors and everything to do the install) and installed improperly so lights were pointing at the ground, brackets on the back were deformed because he just jammed them in and one was so misshapen by the force used to try and get it in that I almost had to cut out. That was $75 for new high and low beam lamps.
- Now because of the above lift and no diff drop, CV Axles were installed in 2018 with cheapo replacements. Guess what is making noise now and groaning once I hit about 60mph on the freeway. Yup, so on top of that I don't believe they were installed properly by the shop so the diff side is weeping (PS is bad enough that the diff is wet). Both axles will need to be replaced in the near future, depending on which way I go, decent quality aftermarkets are going to be $100/ea. (Cardone HD axles) to $385 (CVJ Reman'd Toyotas with HD boots) or at least $400 for OEM. Then that will be 4-8hrs of time for me to replace.
- On top of the CV Axle fun, the other clunk that is happening is the hub flanges being warn and not replaced when the axles were done. So for all the parts that are needed for that and the hope that the splines are not destroyed on the current axles because I don't have the scratch to replace everything at once (axles and hub flanges), I am looking at $200 for the parts and a good few hours of time and greasing everything again (because I doubt the shop did it properly).

So just in things that NEED to be handled soon here, I am looking at over $1000 worth of stuff, me doing all of it because the PO decided he wanted to cheap out and not handle the "while you're in there" stuff or treat the vehicle as a long term investment. Judging from this guys "new" vehicle, what his wife drives and everything else, there was no lack of having the funds to handle the stuff, it was more he just didn't want to. So now I am stuck with the bill for a vehicle that was supposed to be in great condition only to reveal its true colors the deeper I went. Now, I get to spend money on this stuff instead of doing fun things like putting in a new stereo system, searching for new rims that I like, or doing other fun stuff with it. Instead I somehow picked up another project vehicle.

And oh yeah, timing belt will probably be thrown in there in about a year or so. Can't find documentation showing when it was last done and radiator seems to be new Denso so stickers are gone. That kinda of cost was accounted for but now I get to handle all that other garbage first as that is a bit more pressing (do have documentation that belts were replaced in 2016 on Toyota, but they didn't say WHAT belts).

I think this difference in folks is also what makes some people feel like every car they own is "old" after 5-10 years. Yeah, it feels old when you refuse any non-life-threatening repairs. If you buy a decent vehicle and maintain it very well, it'll feel new for well over a decade and the net investment is generally lower.

Depreciation is for suckers and wealthy people.

 

[fro20fow]

Lots of good information.

How many of you are replacing the starter and radiator before signs of failure?

 

[suprarx7nut]

Lots of good information.

How many of you are replacing the starter and radiator before signs of failure?

I replaced my radiator on the 99 when it had ~270k. The old one was showing some stress cracks and the Denso part was cheap so I figured why not.

My 06 is getting a fresh reman (from Toyota) starter at 217k right now because I have to pull the intake manifold to get a leak fixed. Might as well replace that starter.

My average parts bill per "job" is probably way higher than the average DIYer, but I combine jobs wherever possible. It lowers the quantity of repair jobs, i think.

 

[gregnash]

I think this difference in folks is also what makes some people feel like every car they own is "old" after 5-10 years. Yeah, it feels old when you refuse any non-life-threatening repairs. If you buy a decent vehicle and maintain it very well, it'll feel new for well over a decade and the net investment is generally lower.

Depreciation is for suckers and wealthy people.

Right! We have become a disposable society that thrives on the continual replacement of items after a few years. Thankfully I was raised differently (just 40 this last year) and so I was taught that you hold onto things, treat them well and they will repay you by being reliable. Sure there are those lemons out there, but for the most part as long as you take care of it you should be good to go.

Plus, I buy quality, not name. There is a difference between paying the "Sony/LG" tax for something or going with a slightly less well known brand that does just as well. Don't get me wrong, there are those times where nothing is a substitute for the OEM/Real Thing (like what I am looking at for OEM CV axles) but in other cases you can get just as high quality or even better from off-brand stuff (e.g. Kirkland brand, Vizio, etc.).

As for radiator and starter... not sure on the radiator, but it is one of those wear items that once you see a leak starting or signs of cracking/age then it is time. It is one of those things that if you lose it suddenly on the trail or highway, that is a catastrophic failure and can easily cripple your vehicle to the tune of needing a new engine.

Starter is another wear item. Eventually the brushes go out and will start to cause start issues. Some will last 150k+, some won't last more than 100k. From the reading on here that I have done, it seems like around 150k is when they start showing signs of issues, sometimes 200k. But at that point if you are doing other stuff you might as well take care of it if you have the time/money as a preventative maintenance item.

 

[MrWhiplash]

timing belt, WP, Gaskets Thermostat, idler and tensioner bearings 2 gal oem coolant and greased DS, $1150 last month, 6.5 hour job

which gaskets? I'm researching doing my TB/WP service now.

 

[jerryb]

@gregnash mission creep, that is fabulous. Never heard that