100 series roll over, is it fixable?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 16, 2016
Threads
4
Messages
64
Location
Middle TN
Hi-
Y'all have been HUGE helps in the past- and I'm hoping you can help now. I'm not posting in the body/paint forum, as there doesn't seem to be much along this line and this is 100 series specific- I did do a lot of searching first (and would be grateful if anyone here has some other suggestions for searches)

Short version:
Our 17 yr old son rolled our 2000 TLC about a week ago, on the way to school- He came out with a bruised hand, for which I will always be grateful to our rig. Insurance says it's a total loss. He was not hotrodding, or texting (the police and I checked)- long story short, we've discovered a medical issue we didn't know about, but that's another story and doesn't belong here.

I'll try to post photos, but in case I can't, here's what I can tell you:

2000 Land Cruiser, 216k miles, one owner (us), no major modifications (just stuff like new stereo). Since September 2016, we've put in a new (rebuilt, bought from Toyota) transmission and 4 new Michelin tires (end of March). Vehicle was NOT lifted and had stock wheels.

He caught the front PS wheel in a recently "cleaned out" ditch (hwy dept. took part of the shoulder when cleaning out). He tried to pull out, but overcorrected.

Land Cruiser rolled onto DS, must have "tried" to roll onto the roof, but didn't- it skidded approximately 30 feet before coming to a stop.

Damage: The entire DS from front bumper to rear panel. Mirror gone, DS front window gone. Pillar at DS for windshield is damaged at top where it meets roof- windshield spiderwebbed and popped. roof bent enough that moon roof wouldn't work- Our son had to use an emergency tool and pop the moon roof out and crawl out.

Interior damage includes the plastic "glass" over the instrument panel (cracked), center console (where shift handle and 4wd shifter are) is "popped"-

It's ugly...

But, I'm wondering if it's fixable. Insurance didn't go under to check frame- Our body shop won't touch it, due to their reputation for quality work (they said that it would cost too much for them to do a quality rebuild and I agree), but they have contacted a friend of theirs who just sold his body shop and is retired but still working on projects...

I guess my question is: if it's safe to fix, how would that Pillar and Roof be fixed? I've done a lot of searching on here, and Brian MacGyver's "Sunny Belly" is as close to a similar fix as I can find- but his photos are gone (so I can't see what he did) and he's MIA (although I've sent him a PM).

Have any of you fixed a rolled 100 series? If so, what did you do about the roof/windshield/etc? Were you able to insure it? What about making it street legal? Any issues with inspections? (we live in Middle TN, where there are no safety inspections, but will be moving to Maine where there are!).

Any hints, suggestions, etc. would be most welcome. Insurance isn't going to give me much money for this (less than $5k), and buy back is half what they would give me. I know the parts are worth more than that, but don't have the wherewithall or time to part it out myself. And honestly, we NEED this vehicle- I was about to drive her to Maine (1300 miles)- and we do go offroad (fly fishing, camping).

Please do not ask me for parts, or offer to buy her- that will be another thread. Thanks in advance-
 
Here are some of the accident photos.

2017-05-12 09-55-07 -0500.webp


2017-05-12 09-55-35 -0500.webp


2017-05-12 09-55-44 -0500.webp


2017-05-12 09-56-03 -0500.webp


2017-05-12 10-40-37 -0500.webp
 
Glad you sons ok!

It would be to costly IMHO, from what you've described and I see. Around $7 to $9K to restore body and paint. If glass can be replace, which is not likely without some body work to A pillar, it would make a beat-em-up-off-road rig for fun. Otherwise it's a parts rig.
 
Glad your son is ok!
 
Thanks 2001LC, I'm glad our son is ok as well- if he hadn't had his seatbelt on this would have been a fatality.

Have you any experience with salvage vehicles? I ask because I was wondering if I couldn't just find a salvage vehicle with damage to the opposite doors/fenders and between mine and the salvage, create a new vehicle...

Just a crazy idea, but...

As for the $7-9 k to restore- you're good- I have a copy of the independent appraiser estimate and they stopped at $8300.

That said, I've been pricing replacement vehicles and the prices are much steeper- can't even find one owner, personal use, clean car fax (no accidents reported) with service records for ANY mileage within 250 miles of me, and within 500 miles of me Carfax shows a 2 owner with 321k miles for about $8k... so I'm looking at repairing the devil I know, instead of buying the devil I don't know.

I have to keep reminding myself to breathe and chant the mantra: our son's ok, our son's ok...
 
It's time to say goodbye.

I rolled my 4Runner in the dunes of Pismo and fixed it. Great trail vehicle now, and when the battery isn't dead, I still commute with it, but it will never be the same.

If I had to do it over again, I would have let it go. The sentimental attachment is what made me keep it but that was a very silly decision.
 
Thanks Bandit! Me too.

Seanz0rz, thank you- yes, I've done a good cry over the sentimental value of the car (purchased her new when my twins were 2.5 months old as our '98 4 Runner couldn't do twin car seats, 2 teenagers, my husband, myself and my mother. My twins took their driving test in our Land Cruiser... and affectionately called her the "Bye, Bye Truck."). When my 4 Runner was in an accident (someone having an epileptic seizure ran a red light at high speed and we hit with force), it was 2 months old and insurance DIDN'T total it- it never felt right after that... which is why I traded it in for the Land Cruiser. It was a GREAT vehicle before the accident.

I'm trying to look at this from a practical, and financial, point of view- trying to find a well maintained, non-smoked in, one or two owner, relatively low mileage (under 225k miles), accident free, no rust, personal use, 2000-2003 Land Cruiser at an affordable price is nearly impossible. Our son was driving the Land Cruiser because we can't afford to buy him or his sister (and that includes insurance, maintenance, etc) a safe "kid" car (twin sister goes to a boarding school- her choice- about 2.5 hours away, and needs a car to get home on weekends).

Just weighing options... and getting a headache :)

Thanks again-
 
Just be glad u hadn't done every upgrade available from a rehear to upgraded axels and replaced all major engine components that could break solar panels dual battery and even $2500 for new seats. I had no choice but honestly if it was stock in retrospect I would have don the same thing I love my roofless 80

IMG_3845.webp
 
Here is my $.02...I had bought a one owner dealer serviced 1997 Land Rover Discovery in 2007 with 152,change.
All service records, never smoked in, never taken off pavement, no accidents completely rust free.
We brought our son and then our daughter home from the hospital in that truck, it too us everywhere. Never once left us stranded, not once.
Even when driving 1000 miles in three days for family Christmas's in a blizzard, off roading, vacations, moving, date night...you name it that old girl was part of the family.
After 10yrs and with 250,change on her the body mounts were so rusted it was not safe to drive the kids around in any more.
I hesitated, I picked up a cheap Corolla for a commuter car while I fixed my Rover...
After 6mo of sitting in the backyard I put her on Craigslist and sold her for parts.
The guy who bought her was also a Rover guy and drove her home.
I am now in love with another, a 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser, one owner, 156,change when I bought her. Non smoker, dealer serviced, new Michilns...
I've owned the Battle Cruiser for a year now, have 170,change and am so glad that I let my old girl go.

Bottom line, sometimes it is more humane to put the old dog down rather than extend the inevitable.
 
OK- i'm hearing you all! I asked for honesty and I'm getting it!

Jurassic Cruiser- love what you did, but I already have two convertibles (including an antique one)... that option wouldn't work for us- but... COOL and great job!

Spike555, Thank you- my husband has suggested we either keep her and fix her up or part her out ourselves- and I'm looking at all the projects on our farm that keep getting back burnered. You've just confirmed my worst nightmare <grin>!

I'll post an ISO in the proper place- but in the meantime, if anyone comes up with any theories about either fixing the land cruiser (a la MacGuyver of the Sun Belly post or dropping a salvaged body on my mechanics (I've found a CA Landcruiser that is on salvage for mechanical failure- same model year, although different color), then please let me know-

And if anyone has those sweet skills and wants to play, please let me know (we keep the finished car- just to be clear- but would pay for labor/parts with estimate given in advance).

Thanks-
 
It'd be a shame to scrap it because its not in that bad of shape and these things hold their value.
The "A" pillar is whats going to set you back the most, if the windshield can't seat properly it's going to leak and cause all kinds of problems.
The instrument cluster you can buy used, same with fenders and doors, but the actual structural stuff is where it's going to cost real money.
 
So... how would I address that?

I'm not opposed to putting the fenders/doors on with good, but used, pull apart version and saving $ to paint everything later.

I just sent a SCATHING letter to insurance, they used comp vehicles from 5 days PRIOR to our accident to determine a value, so those vehicles are no longer available to look at (which means I can't tell if they're rusted out, which mine is not). And from what I'm looking at, comp vehicles currently on the market are in the $12-$15k range, not just over $6k like they offered me (and i have a $2k deductible, so I get basically nothing for the car).






It'd be a shame to scrap it because its not in that bad of shape and these things hold their value.
The "A" pillar is whats going to set you back the most, if the windshield can't seat properly it's going to leak and cause all kinds of problems.
The instrument cluster you can buy used, same with fenders and doors, but the actual structural stuff is where it's going to cost real money.
 
I'd provide you own list of comp vehicles to the insurance company. If it would require a trip to CA or somewhere in the south to find a comparable vehicle then estimate travel expenses in addition to your invoices for the transmission and stereo.

I don't think repairing it is an option unless you and/or your son have an interest in learning/doing the body work yourself. Even then, you'd have to sub out the pillar and glass work, and in the end, it'll have a salvage title.

I'd keep at the insurance company. They'll come up. If you need a truck soon, look into the Toyota "try before you buy" rentals. They might let you take a new cruiser on your trip. Then for replacing your 2000, patience will pay off. Take your time and be picky. There are still plenty of solid trucks floating around.
 
Jake from state farm settled a total loss claim on my old 2 door tahoe that rolled 3 times at 65 mph!

They originally offered like $6,600 but eventually went to about $7,200. They did a "market survey report" but i told em there werent any smoke gray metallic 2 door tahoes use as comparable sales. The survey came back lower but i held out and eventually they settled.

If you do keep it you're gonna have a heckuva diminished value claim.
 
So... how would I address that?

I'm not opposed to putting the fenders/doors on with good, but used, pull apart version and saving $ to paint everything later.

I just sent a SCATHING letter to insurance, they used comp vehicles from 5 days PRIOR to our accident to determine a value, so those vehicles are no longer available to look at (which means I can't tell if they're rusted out, which mine is not). And from what I'm looking at, comp vehicles currently on the market are in the $12-$15k range, not just over $6k like they offered me (and i have a $2k deductible, so I get basically nothing for the car).

The insurance company is not going to pay to repair it if the cost of repairs is over 50% of the value of the truck.
Used parts are going to be cheap, but the labor is whats going to cost you.
Shop around for places that do repairable's and then sell with a salvage title, I deliver to a place that does small cars, they buy them dirt cheap from the insurance company and then they straighten the frame, structure, replace fenders and wheels and then paint them and sell them for a profit.
Mind you these are cheap cars new, Ford Focus, Mazda M3, those kind of cars and these guys make a killing.
Ask the insurance company how much to buy the truck back, search for one of those auto salvage/repairable shops and see if they'll do the work and pricing etc.
if you want to fix it insurance wont do it, they're going to total it and it'll get sold to a repairable shop.
You can also ask your adjuster what repairable shop they would sell it too, or it it'd go to auction, etc.
This is a lot of work for you and out of pocket money for you to get it fixed.
So you have to decide if it's best to let it go or if you really want to put the time and money into it.
These trucks are hard to find, when I was looking there were only two within 500 miles of me worth buying, mine was one of them.
You might be farther ahead taking the insurance money, buying a Corolla for your son and moving on.
 
LOL- My "scathing" letter did just that, after I pointed out that their comps were from 5 days prior to my accident- I used their "criteria" and told them the following:
A Carfax search of Land Cruisers within 250 miles of zipcode XXXXX (which is the zip of adjoining properties to us), model UZJ100, One Owner, No Accidents reported (this was the vehicle's first accident), personal use, with a service history, shows NO year 2000 (only 15+k were sold in the US for that year), NO vehicles with only 1 owner and:

a 2001 with 3+ owners and accident damage, listed for $10,250 with 194,514 miles (Henderson Auto World, McDonough, GA)
a 2002, 2 owner, multiple use (business and personal), listed for $10,991 with 181,555 miles (AR Motorsports, Inc, Lawrenceville, GA)
a 2003, 3+ owner, listed for $18,490 with 102,900 miles (Turon Auto Sales, Knoxville, TN)
a 2004, 2 owner, listed for $15,981 with 193,527 miles (Global Motorsports, Nashville, TN). I’ve test driven this car. ICK.

If I go out to 500 miles, I can find a 2 owner, no accident, personal use with service history 2000 Land Cruiser with 320,809 miles for $7995 in Fayetteville, NC (Dax’s Deals, Fayetteville, NC), a 1999 with 193,163 miles for $8200 (Autoworld of Conway, Conway, SC), a 2000 with 156k miles, 2 owner listed for $9995 (Allstar Cars & Trucks, Fayetteville, AR), etc.

What this tells me is that your pay out is SERIOUSLY too low and that very important things like one owner, NON-SMOKER, no accidents, personal use and service history (which includes keeping up not only with maintenance but also major repairs), as well as new transmission, tires and upgrades, have NOT been taken into account.
I sent a copy to my local insurance group (owner of the company) and to my body shop. I also told them in this letter that they might want to look at the forums to see WHY this is such a desirable vehicle- and pointed them to the Slee Off-Road Newbie UBZ100 FAQ and IH8MUD.

This forum has really helped me get my facts so I can address insurance. I would never have sold my vehicle for less than $12k (it had some love nips and scratches, from fly fishing trips, so it wasn't "primo" but it was in great shape and maintained).

Thanks!

I'd provide you own list of comp vehicles to the insurance company. If it would require a trip to CA or somewhere in the south to find a comparable vehicle then estimate travel expenses in addition to your invoices for the transmission and stereo.

I don't think repairing it is an option unless you and/or your son have an interest in learning/doing the body work yourself. Even then, you'd have to sub out the pillar and glass work, and in the end, it'll have a salvage title.

I'd keep at the insurance company. They'll come up. If you need a truck soon, look into the Toyota "try before you buy" rentals. They might let you take a new cruiser on your trip. Then for replacing your 2000, patience will pay off. Take your time and be picky. There are still plenty of solid trucks floating around.
 
I will- thanks. One good thing is if I keep and have it fixed, TN does not require me to have a Salvage title due to the age of the vehicle, so, I just keep my title as is (which is another reason fixing might be a good thing- no salvage title).

Won't put my son in a Corolla... I've got a just better than beater '82 MB 300TD, which we've just had to take the tank out of due to an algae bloom- but should be good to go in a bit. I am the one that needs the LandCruiser. My daughter needs a car when she's home (she is a boarding student in high school), so another reason. We live 30 miles out of town, so my daily driver is a MINI Cooper ('09 S Clubman, sway bar, JCW air intake, short shift) that I may let her drive, but the mods have increased the horsepower which makes me a little nervous putting an inexperienced driver in her. <sigh>



The insurance company is not going to pay to repair it if the cost of repairs is over 50% of the value of the truck.
Used parts are going to be cheap, but the labor is whats going to cost you.
Shop around for places that do repairable's and then sell with a salvage title, I deliver to a place that does small cars, they buy them dirt cheap from the insurance company and then they straighten the frame, structure, replace fenders and wheels and then paint them and sell them for a profit.
Mind you these are cheap cars new, Ford Focus, Mazda M3, those kind of cars and these guys make a killing.
Ask the insurance company how much to buy the truck back, search for one of those auto salvage/repairable shops and see if they'll do the work and pricing etc.
if you want to fix it insurance wont do it, they're going to total it and it'll get sold to a repairable shop.
You can also ask your adjuster what repairable shop they would sell it too, or it it'd go to auction, etc.
This is a lot of work for you and out of pocket money for you to get it fixed.
So you have to decide if it's best to let it go or if you really want to put the time and money into it.
These trucks are hard to find, when I was looking there were only two within 500 miles of me worth buying, mine was one of them.
You might be farther ahead taking the insurance money, buying a Corolla for your son and moving on.
 
I'm glad your son is okay!

Sorry but I'd walk away and take the insurance.
 
Back
Top Bottom