100 series pads and new OEM rotors

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Biff said:
Why 100's pads and rotors, are they better than what we have now?

I am a traditionalist when it comes to certain Cruiser mods...the 100 pad thing seemed jicky to me. But I went ahead and did it and I am shocked at the difference. I installed new rotors, new calipers (nicely ceramic coated) and 100 pads last week on my new 40th Ann. No grinding necessary and WOW, what a difference. The brakes require a lot less pedal because the pads are thicker and a lot less stopping distance because a larger surface is grabbing the rotor. Kudos to whomever figured this trick out. :beer:

Jim
 
tried again today.........only one way to get them in GRIND
coarse grit sand paper on my orbital sander nice and slow

was there a model change with the calipers that lets it work on some but not others????
 
Maybe some pics would help. Can you measure how far the calipers are opening? Mayber someone else can take or provide a pic or measurement of their job. You should'nt have to grind anything. Are all parts (rotor, caliper) OEM or do they have the MIDAS touch?
 
Are the rotors and pads OEM Toyota or a mix? Are you trying to get the shims in too? What year is your 80?
 
Its me dan, (Chad in SD)you just sold me some frt axle serv parts and had to walk me through birf assembly.
oem rotors and 100 oem pads.

does not matter now as they were ground done to fit.
 
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zipastro said:
Its me dan, (Chad in SD)you just sold me some frt axle serv parts and had to walk me through birf assembly.
oem rotors and 100 oem pads.

does not matter now as they were ground done to fit.


OK.

But, were you trying to fit them with the shims or without? You need to leave out the shims. The pads should fit without them. It sounds like the inner caliper pistons would not retract far enough.

D-
 
Nope no shims and pistons were all of the way in. I even loosened up the caliper to make space, squeezed in the pads and tightened it back down. Rotor was compltetly locked up.
 
Did you replace the wheel bearings too?



EDIT:

I was thinking of an inner race being not fully seated but that would not cause the inner pad to be tight. It would be opposite that. The only thing I can think of is the pistons wil not fully retract for some reason.
 
Zipastro,

What method/tools are you using to retract the piston?
 
landtank said:
Sounds like the Rotor didn't completely seat on the hub and maybe a little "in" toward the caliper.


Excelent observation. That is where I was trying to go (backwards, of course :rolleyes: ) with an un-seated bearing race.
 
As I said earlier I ground them down to make it work so its too late to try other methods this time around. The piston were -completely- back, when I tried to push the pads in place they were hitting the caliper frame not the pistons. Last night I searched the BBS and found others with the same problem and thats why I replied to this thread from the past.

Seems odd that some have no probs and others cant make it work(I found several no go threads). By loosening the caliper bolts I could get the space needed to slide it in but once I tightened the caliper back down the rotor was locked up TIGHT. I even let it sit for awhile thinking that if the piston was out the pressure would push it in(still locked up).

So what variable changed?
Thicker pads?
Thicker rotors?
Smaller calipers?
 
So you think the the rotor is pushed in too far, seated too tight? It was my inside pad that did not fit.

If the outside one did not fit this could seem more logical but even then I am guessing I had to grind off 1/8" to make it work(seems like too much to be in just the seating).
 
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What is proper technique to completely seat the rotor on the hub? I will be doing the job next weekend along with the birfields (thanks CDan). Would be nice to find a logical explanation for Zipastro's difficulties, but it sounds like it may remain an unsolved mystery...
 
Now I have to worry about the bearing preloads, wheels bearing melting to the spindle, wheels falling off ect. Guess it will be awhile before I let my wife have it back.
 
Come on...doesn't any insanely knowledgable cruiser tech wanna burn the calories to figure this out?? Inquiring minds want to know.
 
Zipastro's situation does not add up, something aint right. his rotor is to far inboard for some reason. Something has to be worn or wrong parts installed for that to happen. Need’s an on the spot eval.

As for setting the rotor to the hub just tighten the bolts to the proper torque in any proper pattern per the FSM, and when you install the bearing races clean everything to bare metal. make sure they are fully seated, wile you are beating them in the sound will change to a more 1solid ring when they seat. Visual confirmation with a mirror is recommended. A non seated bearing would give the opposite problem to what Zipastro is seeing, leads me to think something is worn or wrong parts are installed
 
I could think it "might" be possible that I may not have a bearing race all the way seated -but- as raventai noted I would get the opposite results.

Parts? Bought them from cdan. After completing the job I cant even think of anything I could have put in backwards or messed up to cause this :confused:


OK, here is my theory. I remeber hearing about some change that happened early in the 94 model year for the birfields (beafed up?) if you want to buy new oem birfs (ouch, sharp pain in my wallet) I believe you have to buy the updated outer axle to match the new splines ?
Did anything else change?

I noticed others with the no fit problem also had 94's
 
Zipastro,

In the past when we have "discovered" fitment issues, we have found that somewhere in the truck's sorid past there was a non-OEM part installed. Rick's fiasco with U-joints comes to mind.... and a few others.

Is it possible that some PO has replaced the calipers with a non-Toyota part?

-B-
 

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