100 series / lx470 alternator replacement quick tips no pictures (9 Viewers)

[abuck99]

The backside is open so treat with penetrant for several hours, then try your preferred extraction method.

Once you replace- put a dab antiseize on the new bolt, and a dab of grease over the opening on the back side.

 

[DTCsk8er]

Welding a nut is almost always a sure fire way of extracting if not correctly. The heat from welding usually really helps aid the efforts as well. Good luck!

 

[Miljack]

Still struggling with that bolt. I'm going to need to preheat the bolt before hitting it with the MIG. I'm at full power (it's a little Lincoln 110v, model 125HD) and I slowed the wire down, but when I get it slow enough to get some heat in the bolt, I'm blowing the circuit breaker in the garage.
I think the front cover is sucking up the heat, i've got the nut "welded" a few times, but, I'm not getting the heat into the bolt enough for solid penetration.
It's really hard to see what I'm welding also, kinda resigned to pulling the rad and front wheel/inner liner so I have some options to see what's happening when I'm welding. I am "welding" from the top, but, that's just getting the gun down there and pulling the trigger right now!

 

[flintknapper]

Still struggling with that bolt. I'm going to need to preheat the bolt before hitting it with the MIG. I'm at full power (it's a little Lincoln 110v, model 125HD) and I slowed the wire down, but when I get it slow enough to get some heat in the bolt, I'm blowing the circuit breaker in the garage.
I think the front cover is sucking up the heat, i've got the nut "welded" a few times, but, I'm not getting the heat into the bolt enough for solid penetration.
It's really hard to see what I'm welding also, kinda resigned to pulling the rad and front wheel/inner liner so I have some options to see what's happening when I'm welding. I am "welding" from the top, but, that's just getting the gun down there and pulling the trigger right now!

Yeah, flux-core at that angle is going to be hard to get a decent weld on it..

 

[Miljack]

I'm using gas with it, so, that means a solid wire. I'm on an extension cord too, so that's not helping matters! It's a 50' cord, but, it's "HD," I'll have to source a good heavy gauge extension cord so I'm getting full power from the little Lincoln.

 

[flintknapper]

I'm using gas with it, so, that means a solid wire. I'm on an extension cord too, so that's not helping matters! It's a 50' cord, but, it's "HD," I'll have to source a good heavy gauge extension cord so I'm getting full power from the little Lincoln.

Are you sure of the model? I didn't think the 125HD did anything but flux-core? In any case, if you are using solid wire and shielding gas...it should be adequate ( with a good power source). But you might check the polarity setting and make sure its set up for solid wire and not on the flux-core setting.

Lastly, check your breaker to make sure you aren't trying to run a 20amp unit on a 15amp circuit.

Keep after it, you'll whip this thing.

 

[Miljack]

Here's a (crappy) pic of the nut I'm trying to weld onto the broken bolt in the lower alternator mount.

 

[flintknapper]

^^^^

Turn that baby. Nothing to lose at this point.

Worst case scenario...you'll break off the rest of the bolt and have to drill it out. Not fun....but doable. But let's hope for the best.

 

[Miljack]

^^^^

Turn that baby. Nothing to lose at this point.

Worst case scenario...you'll break off the rest of the bolt and have to drill it out. Not fun....but doable. But let's hope for the best.

Turned...and I hoped...and that d@M$ thing twisted off! I'm back at it tonight, but still no luck. I think a TIG would get it hot enough, but, no way for me to run one at home.
I just put a TON of heat (via the MIG) into an oversize nut on top of the broken bolt. Just trying to get any heat into the bolt and maybe I'll get lucky!

 

[Miljack]

Well, now I really have a problem! Finally got a nut welded to the broken bolt, annddd, broke the bolt off flush
Crud, I am now considering my options. I need a lift to get at drilling the broken bolt out, I think. I don't see a way to get at it, even with the radiator removed.
I have some of the bolt to see how hard it is to drill. If I can get it started in the center I have a chance...
Any good Independent mechanics in the Charlotte area?

 

[flintknapper]

Well, now I really have a problem! Finally got a nut welded to the broken bolt, annddd, broke the bolt off flush
Crud, I am now considering my options. I need a lift to get at drilling the broken bolt out, I think. I don't see a way to get at it, even with the radiator removed.
I have some of the bolt to see how hard it is to drill. If I can get it started in the center I have a chance...
Any good Independent mechanics in the Charlotte area?

Well....you certainly tried, but we've seen this before.

So at this juncture any remaining protrusion will need to be ground flush/flat and a divot carefully center punched into the bolt to accept the first (small diameter) drill bit. Then use progressively larger drill bits to open up the hole.

Then it's another 'try and see' proposition. A bolt extractor (EZ- out) can be tried and hopefully the bolt will come out...preserving the threads in the mount. BUT....we have seen extractors break off too (more fun than even the bolt) or there be so much damage to the mount that a heli-coil was needed afterward.

Sorry this has not gone smoothly for you. You are to be commended for your efforts. And remember, when installing the new bolt. Anti-seize is your friend.

 

[Miljack]

Anybody know what the cover is called that the lower alternator mount bolt is called? It's not the 11322A lower timing cover.

 

[flintknapper]

Anybody know what the cover is called that the lower alternator mount bolt is called? It's not the 11322A lower timing cover.

Oil pump housing....you don't want to have to replace that.

 

[Miljack]

Ok updates, it.was.UGLY!

1. If this happens to you, take the time to build a drill guide for the broken bolt.
2. If you can't build a drill guide, do something to get the drill started in the center.
3. Don't depend on a "center drill"

So, I thought I got a good punch/center mark in the bolt. I didn't. I had some center drills and thought they would help get a hole started. The center drills walked. It's really hard to see what is happening, I was working in my garage, no lift, and it's almost impossible to see what is happening.

Once I realized I was off center, and, that I had a Heli-coil kit for a 10 x 1.25 I broke out the Dremel and started carving up the old bolt. That still took a TON of time, like HOURS!

So, if I had to do it over?

1. I would have been WAY more diligent once I was able to get a nut welded to the old bolt.
a. I would have heated the BEJESUS out of the combo welded nut/bolt.
b. I would have treated the bolt longer w/penetrating lube
c. spent a long time working the bolt/nut in and out in an effort to break it loose

2. It might actually be quicker to pull the engine! It took me at LEAST 6+ hours to dig out that old bolt.

pics attached

 

[flintknapper]

Yep, almost makes a visit to the Dentist seem preferable.

Arduous task to be sure, but we admire your dedication.

 

[DDMSteve]

Attempting this job currently. Everything has gone smoothly but I have not been able to remove the actual alternator from the chassis. I have no idea how you guys have pulled it from the bottom. I didn't remove the coolant reservoir yet but that is my next step.

What did happen was the rubber air line for the power steering air control valve just cracked and broke because the rubber is so brittle. It is the shorter of the two lines that runs up to the air box assembly. I cannot for the life of me find the replacement part number. I am probably just going to find some rubber universal hose to run to the air box/air control valve for now until I can get to the dealer to find the replacement.

 

[Miljack]

What year is your rig? on the older versions I have seen others successfully do what i did.
unscrew the fan shroud
Lift alternator off the mount
twist 90 degrees or so from the orientation it's mounted in the truck.
push the fan shroud to the driver's side as far as you can
wiggle the alternator out

 

[DDMSteve]

It is a 1999 LX 470. It was late last night when I started tackling the project, so it is probably more of me just needing to unbolt more stuff to make it easier on myself.

 

[flintknapper]

It is a 1999 LX 470. It was late last night when I started tackling the project, so it is probably more of me just needing to unbolt more stuff to make it easier on myself.

^^^^

Same vehicle as mine. I've taken mine out of the bottom before. It's a little tight getting it past the lower radiator hose, but doable. Did you loosen up your P/S pump first and move it forward?

I've taken the alternator out the top and bottom...both seemed equally difficult, just for different reasons.

 

[Miljack]

I was able to (finally) close this out. I ended up installing two Heli Coils in the mounting boss. Thanks all for the help and contributions, this is a great resource and helped me through this mess!