Builds 100 Series Build - Proper Family Hauler (1 Viewer)

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Totally with you on the swing outs. Mine is a DD and kids and frequent openings of hatch and gate it's just not worth it for my use. love the way the swing out looks and functionality but I can't reason with it fo my needs. I'm due to have my dissent rear delivered here soon w/o swing outs.

The Dissent seems to be a little more complicated to install (more cutting involved). Not that you need assistance (I've read all your build thread:clap:) but if you need someone to help manhandle the bumper and pass the beer, I can help.
 
Installed some LEDs on the rear top hatch. One facing the interior to light up the cargo/cooking area and one facing the exterior to light up the campground.

Simple mod really in terms of electrical connections, but a real PITA in terms of wire routing if you want the "OEM Look".
Had to take out all the interior panels on the rear hatch and the side panel where my BlueSea fuse box is located (this entailed taking out the fridge that I have permanently mounted and tied to the truck's drawer system and disassembling part of the drawer system itself). Nothing difficult, just time consuming.

After the panels where off, I routed the wires inside the hatch and along the OEM wire loom, then through the OEM rubber boot that connects the hatch to the truck's body, continued under the roof's liner and down the right rear side panels to the fuse box.

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Had to drill a couple of holes to insert the wires. Used rubber grommets to protect the wires and for that "OEM look"

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Wire routing is done!. LEDs are in place (they come with 3M double sided tape).
Now to the electrical connections. I'll detail them here in case there are some other "electrically impaired readers" (like me) that might benefit from my learning curve...
Positive and negative go to the fuse box. I used a simple switch that has three connections in the back. "Power" goes to the pos (+) from the fuse box, "load" goes to the pos (+) from the lights and ground goes to both neg (-) from the fuse box AND neg (-) from the lamp. My switch has a blue light on it, actually the switch doesn't need to be grounded if you do not want that light to turn on (or the switch you use doesn't have one), but the neg (-) on the lights needs to be connected to the neg (-) on the fusebox.

I prefer to solder all connections and then cover with heat shrink as this way I'm sure vibration on dirt roads will not loosen the connections over time. Once everything was wired properly and terminals where in place it was time to put everything back together.

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The only thing I'm not totally pleased with is the switch placing. I wanted it on the right hand inner plastic cover for the pillar so my 10 year old son would reach without having to climb on the lower hatch, but upon inspection, there isn't enough space for the terminals to fit properly as the pillar is reinforced on the inside... maybe I could have managed to fit it, but clearance would have been very tight and I don't like live (pos +) terminals very close to the trucks body even if they are properly shrink wrapped. So just went and placed it on the upper hatch where there is plenty of space.

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I'm happy with the result. It puts out a pretty decent amount of light with minimal draw on the car's battery. This pic was taken with no other lights except for the two LEDs.

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An update on the rear hatch led's light output in camp. They work perfect for what we need with very little draw on the battery.

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Nice touch on the wood tail gate. How did you fasten it?

Thanks! Nothing too fancy, just self tapping screws (be carful with your wire harness when you drill the pilot holes!) You can see a close up photo of the screw head.

I hadn't posted anything about it because it is not totally finished.
I had a buddy of mine who likes to work with wood as a hobby to make it for me. The idea was to have an extra table at the campground which is easy to clean, prevent the risk of glasses/bottles tipping over easily (like it happens with the OEM carpet liner) and reinforce the rear hatch so that it doesn't bend (don't really know if this is an issue with the 100 Series, but I've had two 80 Series in which the lower rear hatch cracked... so I solved it by re-inforcing with a wooden plank). Anyway, he used a shiny finish which I don't really like and (more importantly) the wood cracked during its maiden voyage to Moab, so we need to address that.

Regardless, it was a great addition and very useful when preparing food on the trail or at camp.

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Great thread SS100. I will be acquiring my brother's 04 in the next week or two and may copy several of your mods.

Luis (aka @meatloaf)
 
Great thread SS100. I will be acquiring my brother's 04 in the next week or two and may copy several of your mods.

Luis (aka @meatloaf)

Thanks Luis. I'm glad my thread gives you ideas for your own build. Enjoy your new truck! I see on your signature you already have other three nice toys!
 
Sweet Build, Good work!
 
Thanks Luis. I'm glad my thread gives you ideas for your own build. Enjoy your new truck! I see on your signature you already have other three nice toys!

SS100, yes looking forward to my 100 build. Like you, first thing will be tires/lift. As for my toys, the FJC is almost sold & the Vortec powered FJ60 will sell shortly after, just need to work out a few bugs. So I will have the 100 and the FJ40 once it is restored.
 
SS100, yes looking forward to my 100 build. Like you, first thing will be tires/lift. As for my toys, the FJC is almost sold & the Vortec powered FJ60 will sell shortly after, just need to work out a few bugs. So I will have the 100 and the FJ40 once it is restored.
100 + 40 Series. Perfect Combination!
 
As always, the thread has fallen behind.
In reality, there hasn't been much else added to the Cruiser except fuel and miles!

Some pics from last year's Spring Break Trip to Moab
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After Spring Break we hit the local parks for camping, swimming and MTB a couple of times. Pace Bend TX is always nice in the summer, although it can get really hot!

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The end of summer was getting too hot in TX for our liking, so we headed to the mountains in CO, once again.
I can't have enough of the San Juan Mountains!
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After the trip to CO, I had to do some repairs.
The HP power steering hose was leaking fluid and it was replaced , nothing extremely bad, but it needed to be solved, I managed to get back home by keeping a close eye on the PS fluid and adding when necessary.

More importantly, I had to change the Steering Rack. It started with a pretty bad oil leak about two weeks after returning from CO. I didn't have any steering issues or any other symptoms, but it leaked pretty bad. The truck had aprox 136.000 miles on it, so looking at the different threads, it looks like something "normal" at this mileage for rigs that see some trail duty. I wish it wasn't "normal" as it was an expensive fix, but what can you do!

Otherwise, no problems or mods to report.

The rest of the year the Cruiser was pretty much parked as I had a MTB accident and broke my shoulder in several pieces, so that kept me at home. Barely put 5k miles on it between August and February.

We need to solve that "low mile" issue ASAP. Spring Break is coming!
 
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Good to hear from you Silviu! Come out to the meeting this Sunday if you're not busy :)
 
I was looking forward to having some beers with you guys, but it's Spring break and I'll be putting some miles on the Cruiser. ;)
 

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