checking out their site - pretty slick - but I really want to know - did you install an a/c unit as shown?
Builds 100 Series Build - Proper Family Hauler (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SS100
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checking out their site - pretty slick - but I really want to know - did you install an a/c unit as shown?
- Thread starter
- #42
@pawwright
I personally haven't, but I do have several friends that have. A small 5.000 BTU unit, ran by a portable generator works wonders. You actually have to turn the thing off in the middle of the night in order not to freeze to death... I used to sneer at those that installed the a/c on the RTT... But after having experienced my first Texas Summer, I'm not so sure anymore that it should not be done LOL!
I personally haven't, but I do have several friends that have. A small 5.000 BTU unit, ran by a portable generator works wonders. You actually have to turn the thing off in the middle of the night in order not to freeze to death... I used to sneer at those that installed the a/c on the RTT... But after having experienced my first Texas Summer, I'm not so sure anymore that it should not be done LOL!
Thanks SS100, looks nice! Im definitely interested,will do some price checking.
@m3roar Would you mind taking the measurement from the fender to the center hub just to compare your truck and mine?
Don't know if you saw it, but here is more detailed info that might help you with your truck also Calling the experts... Torsion Bar Woes...
What kind of work do you do in your machine shop? It's always a good thing to have a fellow inmate, Hundy owner in your area with a machine shop
Front ( both sides ) = 21.5
Read ( both sides ) = 23.0
in within the down travel range required. But only barely. I'm thinking of pushing it 5mm past that to get some more height in the front. But really, I'd love a nearly flat stance on this rig. Maybe .5 rake.
I did see your thread about the T-Bars but I didn't see any real solid answers besides re-indexing the bars. Which I feel like it's a 2 banana job.
I do mostly Oilfield stuff but I've done some parts for a friends M3 race car and such. I enjoy all kinds of vehicles. So making parts for them isn't as much of a chore.
- Thread starter
- #45
So it's time I updated this thread a little.
Actually more than a little since I've done several things to the Family Hauler, but first the Torsion Bar problem.
Turns out the TBs I installed where defective and after several e-mails and phone calls to ARB explaining my problem, they sent a brand new set of TBs as warranty.
The measurements with the new TBs are:
Kudos to ARB for an outstanding Customer Support and warranty of their products.
Actually more than a little since I've done several things to the Family Hauler, but first the Torsion Bar problem.
Turns out the TBs I installed where defective and after several e-mails and phone calls to ARB explaining my problem, they sent a brand new set of TBs as warranty.
The measurements with the new TBs are:
- Tires on the ground 21.5 inches (both sides)
- Tires off the ground at full droop 23.5 inches (both sides)
- This gives a Droop of 2 inches or 48mm.... minimum droop as per the installation manual is 50mm but the truck feels fine and alignment was no problem. I'm guessing as the TBs set a little with use, they will gain more than the 2mm Droop.
Kudos to ARB for an outstanding Customer Support and warranty of their products.
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- Thread starter
- #46
After a good while of traveling overland, I have a packing system that works for me.
Fast packing and un-packing and everything has its own place where every member of the family will find what they're looking for.
In order to have our packing system working we need drawers.
I had a good friend of mine build me a set... PP ACCESORIOS
Since there is no 100 Series in Venezuela where he lives and works, I just sent him the measurements and finished up the side covers myself. It turned pretty nice! I've used his products on other rigs and have always been satisfied with them. And they where a lot cheaper than any of the products offered locally.
Fast packing and un-packing and everything has its own place where every member of the family will find what they're looking for.
In order to have our packing system working we need drawers.
I had a good friend of mine build me a set... PP ACCESORIOS
Since there is no 100 Series in Venezuela where he lives and works, I just sent him the measurements and finished up the side covers myself. It turned pretty nice! I've used his products on other rigs and have always been satisfied with them. And they where a lot cheaper than any of the products offered locally.
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- Thread starter
- #47
And here's the finished product.
Looks nice! Works good.
The grey thing at the end is a Front Runner Slated Water Tank
http://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/water-solutions/front-runner-50l-water-tank-tapered.html
Now we're ready and packed to go explore a new place!
- Thread starter
- #48
Also installed one of these...
- Thread starter
- #49
The Smittybilt X20 12.000 pound winch seemed like a decent balance between cost and function on a rig that should not need too much winching. I also wanted to keep the weight on the TBs as low as possible, that is the reason I took the Ramsey Patriot 15.000 out in favor of the Smitty.
Installation was straight forward without any problems, the holes on the bumper align perfectly with the mounting holes on the winch... Routing of the wires is a no-brainer.
I fabbed a little aluminum bracket to attach the solenoid box to, as the plate that comes with the bumper is too big for my liking since I prefer to have direct access and views of how the winch line is beeing spooled in.
Installation was straight forward without any problems, the holes on the bumper align perfectly with the mounting holes on the winch... Routing of the wires is a no-brainer.
I fabbed a little aluminum bracket to attach the solenoid box to, as the plate that comes with the bumper is too big for my liking since I prefer to have direct access and views of how the winch line is beeing spooled in.
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- #50
The only "problem" I saw with the installation of the winch was due to the Sahara Bumper's design which will locate the hawse too far back, which will have the synthetic line rubbing the edges of the bumper when winching at an angle....
We can't have that happening, so either put some spacers behind the hawse in order to bring it forward, install the offset hawse fairlead Amazon.com: ARB Offset Hawse Fairlead (Clear Anodized): Home Improvement
which IMO still does not put the line in a safe angle from being rubbed on the bumper
or get the Daystar Synthetic Rollers
Amazon.com: Daystar KU70054BK Black Synthetic Winch Rope Roller: Automotive.
I went the way of the synthetic rollers on a traditional roller fairlead and consider this to be the best solution. The line will not rub the bumper anywhere now, regardless of the pulling angle.
We can't have that happening, so either put some spacers behind the hawse in order to bring it forward, install the offset hawse fairlead Amazon.com: ARB Offset Hawse Fairlead (Clear Anodized): Home Improvement
which IMO still does not put the line in a safe angle from being rubbed on the bumper
or get the Daystar Synthetic Rollers
Amazon.com: Daystar KU70054BK Black Synthetic Winch Rope Roller: Automotive.
I went the way of the synthetic rollers on a traditional roller fairlead and consider this to be the best solution. The line will not rub the bumper anywhere now, regardless of the pulling angle.
where did you get the rubber diamond plate sheet material? looks great.
duggy
SILVER Star
Nice, have used those Daystar rollers before and they work well.
- Thread starter
- #54
Thx for the comment. I bought that at my Local Autozone
- Thread starter
- #55
On to the Snorkel Install. I got the Safari SS86HF as I liked the model better than the other model Safari offers for the 100 series.
Started by taping up the fender to prevent accidental scratches of the paint while using the drill (I learned this the hard way on another build!)
Then the stencil has to be placed correctly.
Followed by the scary part... (a 4 and 1/2 hole saw is needed)
and more drilling... The holes for the bolts should actually be pretty large, way larger than the bolts so there is enough play to adjust the snorkel's position on the A-Pillar. The manual says a 16mm drill bit should be used. The biggest drill I had was 12.7mm (1/2 inch) so I just used that one and enlarged the holes with a file until I managed to place the upper part of the snorkel where I wanted it on the A-Pillar
Started by taping up the fender to prevent accidental scratches of the paint while using the drill (I learned this the hard way on another build!)
Then the stencil has to be placed correctly.
Followed by the scary part... (a 4 and 1/2 hole saw is needed)
and more drilling... The holes for the bolts should actually be pretty large, way larger than the bolts so there is enough play to adjust the snorkel's position on the A-Pillar. The manual says a 16mm drill bit should be used. The biggest drill I had was 12.7mm (1/2 inch) so I just used that one and enlarged the holes with a file until I managed to place the upper part of the snorkel where I wanted it on the A-Pillar
- Thread starter
- #56
The "problem" with the SS86HF is that it was designed for a right hand drive truck, which has the antenna on the left.
It is beyond my comprehension how the Chinese knock off of this particular snorkel comes with the notch to accommodate the antena and the original Safari product does not....
Anyway, I took a heat gun and with a 30mm socket I made "my own" notch....
This was actually the scariest part of the job... I had opened big holes on other truck's fenders before and knew I would not mess it up.... But heating and "remodeling" the snorkel was a first for me... Was hoping I didn't burn any holes through.... I can happily report I didn't
I am happy with the result. Not perfect but it works fine, the snorkel was not damaged and the antenna can stay where it was intended to be.
The depression seen in the above photo was made by hard pressure of the 30mm socket on the snorkel... It kinda looks like I heated it so much that it melted... But I didn't
Heat was applied, then pressure, then I checked for antenna clearance on the truck and then I repeated the process about 4 times until I had the minimum needed clearance for the antenna to work properly.
Not perfect but it works. And you can barely notice it from a distance.
It is beyond my comprehension how the Chinese knock off of this particular snorkel comes with the notch to accommodate the antena and the original Safari product does not....
Anyway, I took a heat gun and with a 30mm socket I made "my own" notch....
This was actually the scariest part of the job... I had opened big holes on other truck's fenders before and knew I would not mess it up.... But heating and "remodeling" the snorkel was a first for me... Was hoping I didn't burn any holes through.... I can happily report I didn't
I am happy with the result. Not perfect but it works fine, the snorkel was not damaged and the antenna can stay where it was intended to be.
The depression seen in the above photo was made by hard pressure of the 30mm socket on the snorkel... It kinda looks like I heated it so much that it melted... But I didn't
Heat was applied, then pressure, then I checked for antenna clearance on the truck and then I repeated the process about 4 times until I had the minimum needed clearance for the antenna to work properly.
Not perfect but it works. And you can barely notice it from a distance.
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- #57
View attachment 1292475
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Right on for the Blue Sea fuse block and all that. I got to do all that too, just ordered up the Slee 2nd battery tray today. Already got the fuse block, Odyssey 1200, power ports, fridge and all that. Just needed the Slee kit to mount it all. Also got a Blueberry coming and have a 9.5XP for it and LED bar already. On my 80 I remote mounted the control box in the engine bay and ran it wireless. Really like the set up but am doubting there is room in the engine bay to do this.
Good build.
Cheers
Good build.
Cheers
Patineto
"Clueless" fourwheel rabbit
- Thread starter
- #60
Nice... Good build in progress.
I've run a double battery on all my previous rigs. Still debating on wether or not to put it in the 100.
Up to now I've had good luck with this as a back-up
Amazon.com: Antigravity Batteries AG-XP-10 Multi-Function Power Supply and Jump Starter: Automotive
Basically when I do a trip where I drive all day and set up camp in the afternoon and continue on the trail the next day, I've seen one battery is enough as long as the fridge is kept on a lower setting for the night.
When I stay longer than one day at the same spot, I just take my small Honda generator with me. This thing is VERY quiet and with a 100 ft extension cord, we set it far away as to forget it is even there.
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-EU1000...r=1-1-catcorr&keywords=honda+generator+eu1000
The only time I've needed a jump start from the XP-10 was at a campground where we where parked for three nights straight and I had to turn the generator off from 10:00pm to 7:00am quiet time. The fridge was kept on low with the car battery but I never started the engine once in three days... The battery had 11.8 AMP when I tried to start the truck, so for three nights powering the fridge, it is not that bad (and I have a 14 year old ARB Fridge, which does need more juice than the newer models).
I'll wait and see how the summer camping season develops to make a final decision on the second battery as TX gets very hot and that might have the fridge working overtime inclusive at night.
