Such a mystery why all the domestic car makers nearly went out of business right after that time period...
100 Series are Expensive - Discuss! (1 Viewer)
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Such a mystery why all the domestic car makers nearly went out of business right after that time period...
Before I purchased my 04 LX, I did lots of research and spent 4+ months looking for one in good shape. I found a one owner, with many service records (some places listed I called and had them e-mail specific invoices) and super clean for a little over $16K, which is slightly higher than average but it was in really good shape and only had 146K miles on it.
If you aren't going to do the work yourself, find a good mechanic that will do it on a weekend like I did. OR, find a reputable 4x4 shop that isn't going to over-charge like a dealership will.
PO hadn't done the timing belt so first thing I did was have someone do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, spark plugs, heater Ts, and a few other things for around $1100. (parts included)
After that I drained various fluids (AHC, Diffs, Trans, oil), repaired a torn boot, greased drive shaft, and a few other small issues like a squeaking A/C fan that cost a few cents worth of electrical lube. I also decided to pay a shop to do the bearing service, replace the front brake pads, rotors and calipers (total of $1300 including parts). It drives like a new vehicle. Even the guy at the 4x4 shop commented on how clean it was. I'm almost $20K into it (taxes, license etc.) but I have a vehicle that is probably set for the next 100K miles as long as I take care of it. This is the best car I've ever owned. It's quiet, smooth, drives great in snow, and I'm sure it will be reliable. In 10 years I'd be surprised if it had 250K on it but if it did I could probably get $8-10K back if I sold it.
I'm sold on Japanese made vehicles. I'm sticking with Toyota and Lexus.
If you aren't going to do the work yourself, find a good mechanic that will do it on a weekend like I did. OR, find a reputable 4x4 shop that isn't going to over-charge like a dealership will.
PO hadn't done the timing belt so first thing I did was have someone do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys, spark plugs, heater Ts, and a few other things for around $1100. (parts included)
After that I drained various fluids (AHC, Diffs, Trans, oil), repaired a torn boot, greased drive shaft, and a few other small issues like a squeaking A/C fan that cost a few cents worth of electrical lube. I also decided to pay a shop to do the bearing service, replace the front brake pads, rotors and calipers (total of $1300 including parts). It drives like a new vehicle. Even the guy at the 4x4 shop commented on how clean it was. I'm almost $20K into it (taxes, license etc.) but I have a vehicle that is probably set for the next 100K miles as long as I take care of it. This is the best car I've ever owned. It's quiet, smooth, drives great in snow, and I'm sure it will be reliable. In 10 years I'd be surprised if it had 250K on it but if it did I could probably get $8-10K back if I sold it.
I'm sold on Japanese made vehicles. I'm sticking with Toyota and Lexus.
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I am owning a LC 100 / 2001 50th Anniversary edition and I am currently rebuilding a LC 62 from scratch (that is what you call a brain damaged individual)
Some here say or confirm that the cost of ownership of a LC 100 is expensive - Well I do disagree here.
of course if you buy a cheap one there must be some trade offs which you pay later for. Henceforth it is advisable to look for one which has been well maintained. If you buy a car for 2,500 USD which is on the market list today worth 3 to 4 times more than there is a rat.
Secondly nay part you replace will stay alive for another eternity, and that's why I am not bothered to pay good material. Once done, its done and dusted.
MPG I would not be too worried about, as the consumption of the (still) real trucks has become better only marginally.
I had two accidents (not my fault) and I just had to do some panel repair, one of them was with a semi truck; With any of the newer models on the market (not Toyota) that would have caused much more inconveniences - promise, it is a tank.
Working on such an engine is hilariously great - compared to the engines today (by the way Toyota still uses the one in the rally business)
Off Road I never had serious trouble - especially with that ground clearance (factory settings)
After 19 years still not a single drop of oil comes out, my A/C and heating works better than most modern cars, .... and honestly despite its age it is not as maintenance intensive as I feared.
It is only now that I do have a little trouble, my turbo is whistling and I am working on it and it will be solved - still I do not regret that I did buy this car for a premium price.
What you pay for is what you get! Thinking to buy a premium model for nothing and that there would be no need to invest is just hilarious - such a premium stays a premium. And any car on a long run costs money!
For those environmentally worried chaps who might think to pick on me, just let me tell you one thing: I do not buy a newer car because its carbon foot of a new car is the equivalent of another 300K on the run with mine - Thank you.
Some here say or confirm that the cost of ownership of a LC 100 is expensive - Well I do disagree here.
of course if you buy a cheap one there must be some trade offs which you pay later for. Henceforth it is advisable to look for one which has been well maintained. If you buy a car for 2,500 USD which is on the market list today worth 3 to 4 times more than there is a rat.
Secondly nay part you replace will stay alive for another eternity, and that's why I am not bothered to pay good material. Once done, its done and dusted.
MPG I would not be too worried about, as the consumption of the (still) real trucks has become better only marginally.
I had two accidents (not my fault) and I just had to do some panel repair, one of them was with a semi truck; With any of the newer models on the market (not Toyota) that would have caused much more inconveniences - promise, it is a tank.
Working on such an engine is hilariously great - compared to the engines today (by the way Toyota still uses the one in the rally business)
Off Road I never had serious trouble - especially with that ground clearance (factory settings)
After 19 years still not a single drop of oil comes out, my A/C and heating works better than most modern cars, .... and honestly despite its age it is not as maintenance intensive as I feared.
It is only now that I do have a little trouble, my turbo is whistling and I am working on it and it will be solved - still I do not regret that I did buy this car for a premium price.
What you pay for is what you get! Thinking to buy a premium model for nothing and that there would be no need to invest is just hilarious - such a premium stays a premium. And any car on a long run costs money!
For those environmentally worried chaps who might think to pick on me, just let me tell you one thing: I do not buy a newer car because its carbon foot of a new car is the equivalent of another 300K on the run with mine - Thank you.
Terminal Starter Syndrome = The majority of factory starters on 100's fail at somewhere between 90K and 150K — usually just worn brushes. Super labor intensive with most shops charging between 3-5hrs labor + parts. there are a few options for parts: 1.) Rebuild the original starter (about $20 for OEM parts), 2.) Buy a refurbished starter (DENSO only - don't risk using an off brand even if it has a lifetime guaranty—due to $$$ labor cost!) for $150, or 3.) Buy a new DENSO starter for $500. You will also need a gasket set for the intake manifold, which has to be removed to access the starter. Total PITA!
...
I ordered a refurbished DENSO and will do the labor myself for about $200.
Bummer. Our LX takes just a touch longer than you would expect to turn over and I am thinking it’s the starter. Ughh.
Same with mine, it cranks just a bit longer than I would like. guess I should plan for a starter soon.
BullElk
SILVER Star
My daughter's 2000 LX has 343k miles with original starter as well as original AHC parts and fluid.
)So, I have been lurking around here for a couple years. I am a Toyota lover and have owned 5. I currently have an 07’ Tundra that has been super reliable. I can do the majority of my own mechanic work. If money was no object I would pick up a LC for sure but for me I just don’t think it would be a wise choice. I could get a 5 - 7 year old 4Runner with low miles for a little over $20K. Just as reliable and can go anywhere I would go. No issue getting parts or doing upgrades. I go back and forth about this. I know there is nothing like a LC but I do think this is an expensive endeavor.
This is definitely not purely rational as I have had the same thoughts as you but prefer the drive, safety, etc of the LC over the 4runner. From a purely value proposition it surely seems the 4runner wins as compared to the LC. There are just as many high mileage 4runner’s as LC’s in our first world environment.
Consider depreciation as well. A $20k 4Runner today will be worth a considerable amount less in 5 years. A 100 might not be much different in value over that time.
The 4Runner should be a little cheaper to run long term. It feels that way as well.
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To me the 100 series are definitely a niche product.
You can buy them from $5k to $20k. You either spend around $5k to make it reliable and make it run 100% right or find one where some other fool has alreday invested that much.
These trucks have some design flaws that can leave you stranded such as total brake failure and ignition cylinder shaft. But the good news is that things once fixed remain fixed for a very long time.
Finally, as these trucks get older (mine's old enough to vote!), some annoying issues begin to pop up. Several ppl are complaining about cold air leaking in from firewall area, steering racks are failing and some bushings like front diff mounts are deteriorating.
I tell all of my friends to buy a 4Runner instead of a 100. Because a good 100 will be significantly more expensive to buy. A cheap 100 would either have to be run without addressing quite a few issues or will take your next vacation budget to get it in good shape.
You can buy them from $5k to $20k. You either spend around $5k to make it reliable and make it run 100% right or find one where some other fool has alreday invested that much.
These trucks have some design flaws that can leave you stranded such as total brake failure and ignition cylinder shaft. But the good news is that things once fixed remain fixed for a very long time.
Finally, as these trucks get older (mine's old enough to vote!), some annoying issues begin to pop up. Several ppl are complaining about cold air leaking in from firewall area, steering racks are failing and some bushings like front diff mounts are deteriorating.
I tell all of my friends to buy a 4Runner instead of a 100. Because a good 100 will be significantly more expensive to buy. A cheap 100 would either have to be run without addressing quite a few issues or will take your next vacation budget to get it in good shape.
Ain't nothing wrong with a nice 4 runner, just make sure its the same engine as ours v8 4 runner last gen and you have yourself an inexpensive beast.
Check out this video that has me lusting for a limited v8 4 runner.
I don’t know jack about that generation of 4Runners. Have had a few in our shop over the years and they seem pretty decent build quality. Not sure how wise it is to buy that over the 100 series if this video is accurate. Seems like it would have all the same issues a 100 would. Guy says it weights 5,700lbs, how is that even possible? Also says it has hydraulic suspension all around and airbags in the rear? Sounds like a ticking time bomb. And to those mentioning steering racks and deteriorating front diff bushings, that’s not a 100 series problem, that’s every single high mileage Toyota. We’ve had to replace several steering racks on other older Toyota models in the family due to age and higher mileage (over 150k), always got an oem replacement. All the 90s Lexus models at some point need engine mounts, tranny mounts, and diff mounts replaced, completely normal. 2ng gen GS300/400/430 also have the same exact brake issues.
Having fallen for the “on paper” 4Runner vs 100 series analysis, I went from 80 series —> 4th Gen T4R (V8 Limited 4wd) —> 100 series (all new). In terms of actually driving/owning the vehicles, I found out that I had a very strong preference for the LC/LX, and despite the fairly similar drivetrain there’s a reason for the rather substantial cost difference, and I’m willing to pay it.
They can be expensive, but I kind of expected it when I purchased. Don't care, because I love the vehicle. Lord willing, I've got a number of years left with my 1998, but when the time to replace comes up I'll probably look at a GX or 200 series, over a 4 runner. The T4R feels a bit small to me and I like that the GX and 200 have AWD (gives me a bit more confidence in bad weather conditions). Assuming we're not all bashing on cyber trucks or rivians at that time 
My buddy has a newer 4Runner he spent $50k on. Even overspending tremendously with tons of expensive offroad bits, I'm still way under half his purchase price. And I have waaaay more features and luxury. And depreciation won't hit as hard. Cruisers are like planes. And planes aren't cheap to buy or maintain. But if you keep up they're run forever. If you're not rich you need to learn how to wrench to own one of these.
I'm a victim of letting my enthusiam get the best of me - I bought a s***ty, broken LX (somewhat unbeknownst to me...). So I've spent ALOT of time and a good bit of money on this thing getting it to where it should have been for me to have made the purchase in the first place. But hey, I bought it cause I wanted a good project. Just didn't realize how much of a project it'd be. I've done more work to this thing in a culdesac or parking lot than in a garage or driveway. But hey, the stockholm syndrome is real. I love this thing. lmao
So Far:
-Christmas Tree Dash/ABS - $900 +$50 rebuild kit (junkyard part had same warranty as a brand new ~$5K OEM... No regrets 2 years and 10k later)
-Alternator Died - $150 for Denso Reman
-Sparkplugs - $80
-Throttle Control Motor - $169
Lots of stuff still on the list to do, but nothing required besides new rear springs to make the AHC happy, and finding and sealing a leak on the rear liftgate, and replacing the serpentine belt. Also about time for the waterpump/timing belt, as to be expected being at 169k. Huh, I guess if I hadn't overpayed so much buying it, it wouldn't have felt as bad since I've done the work myself. Having my fuel pump in my 06 IS350 fail on me mid-roadtrip stranded me and cost me more than all this alone.
I'm a victim of letting my enthusiam get the best of me - I bought a s***ty, broken LX (somewhat unbeknownst to me...). So I've spent ALOT of time and a good bit of money on this thing getting it to where it should have been for me to have made the purchase in the first place. But hey, I bought it cause I wanted a good project. Just didn't realize how much of a project it'd be. I've done more work to this thing in a culdesac or parking lot than in a garage or driveway. But hey, the stockholm syndrome is real. I love this thing. lmao
So Far:
-Christmas Tree Dash/ABS - $900 +$50 rebuild kit (junkyard part had same warranty as a brand new ~$5K OEM... No regrets 2 years and 10k later)
-Alternator Died - $150 for Denso Reman
-Sparkplugs - $80
-Throttle Control Motor - $169
Lots of stuff still on the list to do, but nothing required besides new rear springs to make the AHC happy, and finding and sealing a leak on the rear liftgate, and replacing the serpentine belt. Also about time for the waterpump/timing belt, as to be expected being at 169k. Huh, I guess if I hadn't overpayed so much buying it, it wouldn't have felt as bad since I've done the work myself. Having my fuel pump in my 06 IS350 fail on me mid-roadtrip stranded me and cost me more than all this alone.
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BullElk
SILVER Star
To update my cost of ownership thoughts and posts..... At 394K miles, I just had to replace two hard brake lines on my '99 LC for $290 including labor. I see my brake light come on, find the leak, order lines from dealership, pick up next morning, get them replaced.
In the meantime, I drove my Dad's 2007 Tacoma. To sum up my thoughts on that...... Man, I'm glad to get back in my Hundy. What a difference it makes to be on a totally different assembly line, 20 years ago, I might add. Still a beast... a quiet, highway floating, heavy, safe, reliable, large brake fluid reservoired Beast!
In the meantime, I drove my Dad's 2007 Tacoma. To sum up my thoughts on that...... Man, I'm glad to get back in my Hundy. What a difference it makes to be on a totally different assembly line, 20 years ago, I might add. Still a beast... a quiet, highway floating, heavy, safe, reliable, large brake fluid reservoired Beast!
