100 Series are Expensive - Discuss! (1 Viewer)

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I bought my LC because I wanted a big vehicle to haul kids and dogs and camping gear, had 4x4, can tow my boat. Pickups didn't have enough passenger space. Vans were not towing/offroad capable. Most SUV's are lesser quality in my opinion and for the most part not well maintained from what I could see. My budget was less than $10,000. That led me to the LC, and I figured screw the gas mileage, something had to give and I made peace with it before I purchased.

Also, to make it feasible, I committed to doing all/most work myself to save costs. I use Toyota parts 95+% of the time so I don't have to do things over. I've bought about $500 in tools. I have to work in my driveway, no shop. I haven't really made any upgrades - to keep costs low. Just repairs and preventative maintenance.

All that led to a 1 owner, mostly dealer maintained with lots of service history, LC in standard condition that had been cared for. Almost new tires, a new Toyota battery, front brakes just done. No rust, not perfect condition but much better than I was hoping for. I was happy to pay $10,00 and did not need to do anything to drive and enjoy it. For any used vehicle I'd figure about $100/mo for maintenance costs, to keep running in very reliable condition, I'd say I'm closer to $130/mo. for parts and tools, and I've gone overboard on replacing things that certainly did not need to be done. I've only paid someone else to have LBJ replaced, steering rack bushings, alignment, muffler, and windshield. I rent tools (at no charge from O'Reilly's) so I don't buy things I don't use a lot.

Every fluid replaced with quality synthetic. All driveline items greased. Rear shocks. Rear brakes - rotors and pads. TB job (only because crank seal was leaking) with serp belt too, fan bracket, every coolant hose, pulleys, water pump, basically anything that spins, crank and cam seals. Heater T's and every hose attached to them. Removed and cleaned throttle body. Wiper blades. LED backup lights. Installed a new APPS. Replaced PCV valve and hoses. New headlight and foglight bulbs. New LED interior lights. Fixed or replaced small switches like exterior mirror control and passenger window switch, tightened up the A/C controls and rear view mirror, various plastic clips and so on. Bought floor mats for front, mid, rear. Got a small air compressor, some simple recovery gear.

There is nothing that I can think of that will do all the things that I want, and be so dang reliable, and (to me) luxurious, for the cost of what I've put into this rig. And way less expensive than having a car payment. It looks great, runs awesome. I've got 225,000 miles on it and it will go for a very long time.
 
Any idea what something like this would be worth today? Seems like prices are all over the place since I sold my last 100 series 5 years ago.

2003 LX470
107,400 miles
Some pin striping, very minimal rust on the frame, I would rate the interior excellent and exterior good, its seen some trail use.

OME suspension
Slee diff drop
Nitro Trail Grapplers 295's 6 months old
Factory 18” wheels powder coated black
ARB Sahara front bumper (needs to be blasted and coated again, fogs are broken.)
Warn M12000 winch
Slee rock sliders (old ones with welded top plate)
4x4 Labs rear bumper with dual swing outs
ARB rear locking diff
ARB single air compressor with quick disconnect air hose
 
Any idea what something like this would be worth today? Seems like prices are all over the place since I sold my last 100 series 5 years ago.

2003 LX470
107,400 miles
Some pin striping, very minimal rust on the frame, I would rate the interior excellent and exterior good, its seen some trail use.

OME suspension
Slee diff drop
Nitro Trail Grapplers 295's 6 months old
Factory 18” wheels powder coated black
ARB Sahara front bumper (needs to be blasted and coated again, fogs are broken.)
Warn M12000 winch
Slee rock sliders (old ones with welded top plate)
4x4 Labs rear bumper with dual swing outs
ARB rear locking diff
ARB single air compressor with quick disconnect air hose


17-19k with that mileage.

I wouldn't be surprised if someone was willing to pay 20k+ easily since it has the build.
 
Any idea what something like this would be worth today? Seems like prices are all over the place since I sold my last 100 series 5 years ago.

2003 LX470
107,400 miles
Some pin striping, very minimal rust on the frame, I would rate the interior excellent and exterior good, its seen some trail use.

OME suspension
Slee diff drop
Nitro Trail Grapplers 295's 6 months old
Factory 18” wheels powder coated black
ARB Sahara front bumper (needs to be blasted and coated again, fogs are broken.)
Warn M12000 winch
Slee rock sliders (old ones with welded top plate)
4x4 Labs rear bumper with dual swing outs
ARB rear locking diff
ARB single air compressor with quick disconnect air hose
That's a lot of upgrades on it. Depends on what the service history looks like. If it was used and abused then that stuff really becomes more of a "lawn ornament" status as there will likely be lots of mechanical and other items needing remedy before any of that could get used. Plus, built trucks are on the harder side of pricing as the upgrades are subjective.
 
2020....so far:

Rear Control Arms (Upper/Lower): elected to do the adjustable versions so price was certainly higher than OEM......$625
Rear Extended Swaybar Links: $89
Tail Shaft: New OEM.....u-joints had finally given up the ghost....elected to change out entire assembly as it was 21 years old and there was some play.....$380
Steering Rack: new OEM.....$565
Steering Pump: new OEM....$250

What's coming:

New OEM Radiator (currently starting to discolor....this is the original OEM radiator)
New OEM Radiator upper and lower hoses (all original)
Alternator (currently showing signs of imminent failure...this is the original OEM alternator)

What's impressive to me is that ALL of the parts listed above (with the exception of the u-joints....replaced 60k ago) are the original parts that came on the rig. All of those items have lasted 21 years and 250k hard miles. I'd say that's pretty solid. Expensive to replace all that stuff? Sure. But, going with the right replacement parts means I should get close to the same mileage and time from them meaning the "investment" is well worth it.
 
Well they certainly demand a lot of maintenace which can get expensive, however keep in mind that the newest 100 series is 13 years old which is a lot mine is a 2001 so it is almost 20 years old I paid 8k on repairs and changing wornout items such as headlights, windshield etc. For a car that old I think it isn't that expensive especially that almost every thing works on most 100's and spare parts are abundent heck my old car which was an 88 toyota crown barley ran at 20 years old it had no a/c would always break down or overheat and parts for that thing were extreamly rare so all in all I would say that 100's are a fair bargain for their age
 
Great line-up! Can only imagine what your fuel bill is—that Sienna is probably a life saver. Cost of ownership is definitely a conversation we have had in this house. I gave myself a $3,000 budget to get my '98 LC in perfect running order, which is defined as... if my wife and daughters go on a 2K mile trip or a trip to the mall they won't have a major breakdown or be stranded.
...
Here's what I plan to use the $3,000 for:
Background — This LC only has 113K on the odometer, Somewhere around 100K the second owner put on a complete 3" OME lift plus ARB front (with winch) and back bumpers.
...
Work needed and completed — My inspection of the rig uncovered the following:
1.) All major steering hardware and bushings were shot and needed to be replaced. To date I replaced the UCA, LCA, tie rod ends, ball joints, a stabilizer bushings
2.) the factory brakes, though in good shape, needed to be upgraded to handle the 500 extra pounds from the ARB bumpers and the 18X305 BFG/KOS tires. I upgraded all rotors to heavy duty drilled/slotted with ceramic pads.
The rig now drives and stops like a brand new vehicle.
...
To be completed next:
1. I have no way of knowing with 100% confidence that the timing belt has been done. I am replacing the TB, tensioners, thermostat and housing, water pump and all gaskets. Additionally, I'll replace the hoses and serpentine belt. While I'm at it I will take the radiator to a shop and have it inspected, cleaned, and reconditioned (if needed).
2. Starter — I have the dreaded "terminal starter syndrome" — so I will make on this repair at the same time I do the timing belt.
...
There you have it. With these repairs completed and some minor interior rehab my rig will be in perfect running order. My goal was to have a LC that could be a DD and a worthy expedition cruiser for under 20K and I am on budget. All the mechanical work was done by me and some friends over a weekend. Saved a ton of $$$ on labor by reaching out on IH8 forums and YouTube videos. The community has been very helpful... and patient with me. THANKS!
...
One final note on cost of ownership, After replacing plugs, wires, and coil packs (spent around $200. and an hour of time) the rig is purring and I'm now averaging 13.7 MPG (mostly HWY miles because I live in the country) on my LC, which is just 3.0 MPG under what I was getting out of my '13 Taco.
...
Once again, can't thank the IH8 community enough!

View attachment 2167626
I dig this ride, the white with clear lenses. It all looks "simple" and real clean. Nice
 
Try owning/building a race car 😂. I was 5 years and $50,000 deep into a 87 mustang which sold for a whopping $20,000. I’m now about $19,000 into my LX and I’m pretty sure I could get what I’ll into it for in SoCal or “possibly”a little more. Anytime you take something into modification your entering the “labor of love territory” where you should plan to not get even half of the money back as a good rule of thumb.
 
I baselined mine- had to do the dreaded brake booster- valve covers(seep/not leak) - typical maintenance. Now at 250k I should do A Arms up front w/ bearings. In future I’ll get to that ,yet for now they are ok.
A Rack should be done eventually. I did do cv axles because cheap after market lasted 20k. After I cranked em up a tad. Oh and pulleys with a belt someday.
Yet all in all- consider what another vehicle would take at 250k miles! Perhaps a Tahoe or a Excursion- Would you have a Nice leather SUV capable of Reliable transportation, Comfort and durability to travel great distances and traverse serious off-road obstacles That gets you back home, without some degree of maintenance? Parts are more expensive, yet purchased less often.
I very much feel the return on the investment Is much greater than most any other Suv.... as do many here on this forum. Cost of ownership is Subjective to how the vehicle is used/serviced and Maintenanced.
Oh and when selling/ You can recoup Most of the total investment- depending on condition ofcourse.

My .03 cents
 
I am a recent owner of one of these 100 series and after reading about them a bit, I find that there are a few big ticket items to look out for:

1. AHC suspension - $$$ to fix/maintain
2. Steering system - There is a recall for this and it has been known to fail. It happened to me a low speeds (luckily) and it turned out to be a worn out piece in the steering column. Ended up fixing it and replacing the rack and pinion system.
3. Brake system - Once it fails it is big $$$ to fix.

Am I missing anything?
 
I am a recent owner of one of these 100 series and after reading about them a bit, I find that there are a few big ticket items to look out for:

1. AHC suspension - $$$ to fix/maintain
2. Steering system - There is a recall for this and it has been known to fail. It happened to me a low speeds (luckily) and it turned out to be a worn out piece in the steering column. Ended up fixing it and replacing the rack and pinion system.
3. Brake system - Once it fails it is big $$$ to fix.

Am I missing anything?
Those are the big ones, smaller ones are:
  • Rear AC lines will corrode and tank the AC system
  • Front CV Axles will fail if your truck is lifted
  • radiator and fan bracket pulley fail around 200K miles
  • Alternator fails around 200k miles
  • Ignition lock cylinder shaft breaks
  • Fuel injectors typically start failing one by one around 200K mark
  • Most rubber parts in the suspension are usually ready for replacement around 200K mark
Otherwise these are sweet, reliable and comfortable trucks!
 
They are, and they’re worth it. This is not the kind of car you buy when you NEED a car today. You can negotiate the cost of required maintenance out of the purchase price, if you are willing to walk away.

The gas mileage is poor, but it can do anything:
-Fits 2 families of 4 with 4 car seats.
-Can fit all of the x-mas gifts from The extended family for an infant and toddler.
-Can tow
-Is likely the most comfortable car available
-Between a hitch cargo carrier and a roof rack, you can move a studio apartment in one trip.
-You can put a mattress in the back, set jack stands under the frame, put the ahc in low to rest the frame on the stands, and have a stable sleeping platform.

I recently saw a thread where someone said they gained 1mpg by going to an electric fan setup. That’s a 7% increase. That’s huge. Are you running premium gas? Stop that.

Many mods are unnecessary “masculine jewelry.” Odds are, if I am going somewhere that requires a winch, there are 30 guys with winches who have never gotten to seriously use theirs for a real reason. They would be pumped to tell their wife that they saved me, maybe then she would understand. Odds are a come-along or even me pulling with a block and tackle would do the job. An awning can easily run $700 to $1700+. A Costco instant 10x10 pop up canopy with walls is $230. You can strap it to the side of your 100 series or put it in grandmas backyard for the next family bbq. A roof top tent, what if the camp site you select has a tree canopy near the parking spot? There are modern instant up multi room tents that house 8 people and can be set up in 4 minutes. For the price of a tepui roof top tent, you can get a Cabela’s outfitter’s tent and a tent barrel stove.

(Trigger warning-actual faith in reliability) When researching 100 series, I kept hearing that they were engineered to run for 25 years with limited maintenance on a deserted island. My steering rack is leaking, the area around my cv’s look like a cave formation of grease stalactites, but it has no other symptoms. I am not on a deserted island, I am in an area that aliens would definitely attack first when they invade. Maybe my cv will last another 50k miles. If it does or doesn’t, it will cost the same to replace it before or after it stops. Odds are they will display more symptoms before it actually breaks. TheOnly difference will be that I will call AAA. AfterThat I will use Turo or Lyft For day to day transportation while I repair it. Many people on this forum have no faith in the reliability of their vehicle. They want a $70k vehicle rather than the best suburban/explorer ever built. People are willing to spend money to fix sounds that aren’t even problems because they are self conscious about it.
I love your practicality! I feel the same way about the masculine jewelry comment.
 
I have a beautiful 100. Not a off road toy I beat the crap out of. It’s a family hauler. Reliable? Yes... yet a new version would make me feel better because it’s my family I think of 1st. I’m sure my 100 is a tank, yet everything gets old eventually. I have spent a lot on maintenance and upgrades. Mostly! When you get a used 100, you will need to spend some $ on baseline and other replacement parts. That’s a good expense. Considering what the cost is now for a 200k mile 100. Cost efficient compared to a 2014 GX 460.... it’s a price point that’s certainly worth evaluating.
I’m a large advocate for the 100 value and usability, ask my spouse. Yet modern and updated safety features definitely outweigh the cool factor. That being said, I’ll continue driving my cruiser hauling a trailer down the highway with my kids safely in backseat, wrapped in curtain airbags, arb airbag compliant Metal bumpers........ and do that with a smile. Dosnt happen without the thought of how much I spent and what I can spend to get a more modern “version” like a gx460 and build it. The 100 is something that holds its value. I will say this, it’s my 3rd cruiser... and It holds its value very well like others I’ve owned.

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441BAB61-8828-4267-AFAC-1B76096A6F32.jpeg
 
Gosh dangit I'm SICK AND TIRED of going back and forth about getting one of these 100s. This thread is only pushing me further to buy yet another old vehicle that has a history of incredible longevity (post-baseline). What's laughable is that even with how hot the used LC market is (although I've noticed used LC prices coming down as one after another sit stagnate for sale) I still consider these prices to be decent when compared to the big picture and the alternative. New cars are complete junk nowadays. My dad has a 200 that he has still yet to break in (140k) and he can't say enough good things about it. Even as I read this thread and type this at the kitchen counter I've seen 10+ 100s go by--and while I've never been one to look for "signs", damn if it ain't a good indicator. Will the new LCs and 4runners last as long? Only time will tell.
 
Gosh dangit I'm SICK AND TIRED of going back and forth about getting one of these 100s. This thread is only pushing me further to buy yet another old vehicle that has a history of incredible longevity (post-baseline). What's laughable is that even with how hot the used LC market is (although I've noticed used LC prices coming down as one after another sit stagnate for sale) I still consider these prices to be decent when compared to the big picture and the alternative. New cars are complete junk nowadays. My dad has a 200 that he has still yet to break in (140k) and he can't say enough good things about it. Even as I read this thread and type this at the kitchen counter I've seen 10+ 100s go by--and while I've never been one to look for "signs", damn if it ain't a good indicator. Will the new LCs and 4runners last as long? Only time will tell.
You can always just dip a toe in rather than go full bore BaT quality Hundy to start. Look for one that has 200-300k miles, minimal surface rust (so you can at least wrench on it yourself), and shows 200-300k miles of use (dents, scrapes, interior stains, etc). Get a really thorough PPI done to ensure stuff like squishy rubber bits are OK and fluids are fresh. I'd be shocked if something like that would sell for more than $12k.

I actually just described my own 01 LX, and I couldn't bring myself to sell it for MORE than $10k with 205k miles on it. Found out I may need to hold on to it (and my trailer) a tad longer though.
 
Gosh dangit I'm SICK AND TIRED of going back and forth about getting one of these 100s. This thread is only pushing me further to buy yet another old vehicle that has a history of incredible longevity (post-baseline). What's laughable is that even with how hot the used LC market is (although I've noticed used LC prices coming down as one after another sit stagnate for sale) I still consider these prices to be decent when compared to the big picture and the alternative. New cars are complete junk nowadays. My dad has a 200 that he has still yet to break in (140k) and he can't say enough good things about it. Even as I read this thread and type this at the kitchen counter I've seen 10+ 100s go by--and while I've never been one to look for "signs", damn if it ain't a good indicator. Will the new LCs and 4runners last as long? Only time will tell.

If you're talking about the 5th gen 4r and the 200 series, they will last as long as the 100s.

The drivetrains in both vehicles are two of Toyotas best. The technology packages are pretty much the same offering Toyota has put in every vehicle they make. It's super dated, but it works. You can't really go wrong with any Toyota 4x4, 100s are cool but there are plenty of good options.
 
Weird, I cant think of anyone I know who bought a Land Cruiser because they were 'cheap'.

We buy them because they are well-made, safe vehicles.
 
Just 3 yrs ago I would have been able to pick up an '06 LC with no NAV or AHC for $12K. I still to this day lament that lost buy opportunity.
 
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For a half inch by 1.75” decal that is almost $40, yup that is not cheap lol
 

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