100 Pads on an 80 hassles

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Hi Semlin..... there is really no point in over stressing the rotors or the pads, if I were to take out the shims and bolt back up, my pads and rotors would cook! I may do that after about 3000 miles, but still no point then really, the shims will be fine, better to have a rotor run in the middle than offset anyway, but as my warped discs were fairly new, (no wear) just warped, I will get them skimmed at work, no cost to me, and next time I fit new pads I will fit re-surfaced discs if they need it, hope not, but ya never know.
 
desertdude said:
I was told ( by a reliable phone voice from Colorado) that the 100 series pads will not fit with new rotors


I did brand new OEM rotors and brand new OEM 100-series pads...tight, but it did fit....

the pistons need to be compressed 100% for it to fit....
 
I have a funny feeling, Toyota wanted to extend thier service times, to beat other motor companies, the only way they could do that with the pads, was to tighten up on all their machining tolerances of all the parts related to the braking/hub/knuckle.

If I had fitted the 80 pads, I doubt if I would have had any hassles, specially if I had fitted Toyota discs.

When toyota wanted extended time on brake pad change, they made pads thicker and in turn had to tightened up on clearances, well that my theory anyway.
 
tarbe said:
Ditto here.



Same with mine. Left the shims out, fit perfectly, no squealing.
 
I am doing this this Sunday on my dad's 97 We will see how it goes. Any good write ups?
 
Most of the time new rotors and 100 pads fit fine, mine did not. I tried everything even loosening the calipers and it DEFINATELY would not fit.

I found a couple of others post from members who have had the same fit problem but only a few.

Easy to fix with a bit of sanding.
 
No problem with my new OEM rotors and 100-pads. Just in case anyone is counting the successful vs the unsuccessful.
 
clarkrw3 said:
I am doing this this Sunday on my dad's 97 We will see how it goes. Any good write ups?

If you are changing the rotor, look for write ups on the birf repack and just pay attention to the parts from the hub on out.

If you need a write up just to change a brake pad.....
 
Boston Mangler said:
Sorry for thread hi-jack, but does anyone know of the 100 series pad fitment on the DBA rotors?

I installed the DBA rotors with 100 pads, it was pretty tight, had to go without the anti squeal shims
 
When Beno and I did mine, with new rotors and 100 pads, it was a bear to fit. We had to tap with wooden mallet. Did some driving and hard stops to wear in place.

It took about 30+ miles of easy driving to settle in properly. Tried to go on the highway but rotors were heating up and causing vibration. However now working quite well. Just did 1900 mile trip from Ohio to South Carolina and back. Just fantastic thru the mountains. Well worth the effort!
 
Eduardo96FZJ80 said:
I installed the DBA rotors with 100 pads, it was pretty tight, had to go without the anti squeal shims

Long Term Effects? Working good?
 
Boston Mangler said:
Long Term Effects? Working good?

I put in the slotted DBA's and 100 Series PBR ceramic pads last year. Shims would not fit either. no problems otherwise. Brakes well but I still get the ceramic squeal every now and then...I don't think I'll use those pads again...kinda annoying :mad:

WET
 
I do not have shims in mine either, light squeek soemtimes for the fist stop of the drive no problems otherwise,

I put on 100 series pads 40K miles ago, no install problmes popedd right in, have not looked latley but 20K into it they had .4" of material left. I will be going back with them when these waer out, already have the second set on hand waiting.

I am in a wierd positon where the front brakes are outlasting the rears by a wide margin, ushually it is the other way arround.
 
RavenTai said:
I am in a wierd positon where the front brakes are outlasting the rears by a wide margin, ushually it is the other way arround.



Think your proportion valve could be hoarked up or out of adj?
 
zipastro said:
Think your proportion valve could be hoarked up or out of adj?


I have not seen any other indication but maybe that is the case, unfortunatly there is no easy way to check, would need the gauge set.

rear pad life on an 80 series is not great to start out with, It could just be that the 100 series fronts are lasting a lot longer than the original pads
 
Boston Mangler said:
Long Term Effects? Working good?

A squeal now and then, The DBA rotors have been thru two sets of pads. I did note slight vibration (with a hard stop) before I replaced pads. I think it was the calipers hanging up.
Vibration went away after the new pads??
 
desertdude said:
I was told ( by a reliable phone voice from Colorado) that the 100 series pads will not fit with new rotors


Fit fine for me...

You have to really push the pistons back in the calipers. Took a large cold chisel and some blocks of wood for me to get them back in far enough.
 
RavenTai said:
I have not seen any other indication but maybe that is the case, unfortunatly there is no easy way to check, would need the gauge set.

rear pad life on an 80 series is not great to start out with, It could just be that the 100 series fronts are lasting a lot longer than the original pads

The best way to see if you've got the proportioning valve set correctly is to do some hard stops on a gravel road, preferably with the ABS off.

It also helps to have someone outside the vehicle looking at your tires, seeing when they lock up.

Ideally, you want the front to lock up just before the rear.

I had my 80 for 35K before I swapped the rear brake pads, and they were only "kinda" in need of replacement then. They were used when I bought it as well, but not sure how many miles were on them.
 
You have to really push the pistons back in the calipers. Took a large cold chisel an

So you guys arent using clamps to compress the pistons when you change pads? Quick-Grips have been my friend for a long time, though you occasionally spit out brake fluid from the res.
 

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