Excellent! thanks for doing that. Let us know how it turns out, the canister alone is over $500!
100 Caught fire & gas tank venting concerns
- Thread starter Skidoo
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Excellent! thanks for doing that. Let us know how it turns out, the canister alone is over $500!
Will do, for my canister it is a bit cheaper, $300....77740-60440
Toyota Parts and Accessories Online - Fred Anderson Toyota in Raleigh, NC
Buy genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories online from Fred Anderson Toyota. Trust Toyota OEM Parts to get back on the road fast. Shipped fast from Raleigh, NC.
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$276 at McGeorge Toyota. I may get one after trying to chase down some fumes and now a CEL. I've already replaced the fuel cap but it didn't help.
McGeorge Toyota Vapor Canister Link
McGeorge Toyota Vapor Canister Link
I couldn't find any cheaper than 500 for the 2001
Is it the 77740-60390?
Here is that one for $406
77740-60390 - Vapor Canister 1998-2002 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts
Save Money On Your Vapor Canister (7774060390) For Your 1998-2002 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
guardcompany
Shea
I just called Toyota and opened up a case as well. They connected me directly on the phone with the service manager at my local dealership and they want to see the vehicle tomorrow to test the EVAP system (it's already been tested and passed). So I figured it's worth the $60 to have them test it before I replace it. I'll also get to pick their brain on the other two valves. It looks like the older canister (under the hood) comes with one valve but I'm confused on my year with it in the back.
I'm going to have to replace my canister now. There's absolutely nothing else that could make it act the way it does.
I've never seen a modern car act like this.
I did put the heat shield on the other day. I have no idea what it does temperature-wise, I forgot to get readings before I installed it.
Mine only boiled before i put in a new fuel pump. It hasn't boiled for a summer and a half now. I just have Serious fuel smell and check engine light with big levels a fuel cut on lift off in drive, with the accompanying check engine light around -22 percent.
It's really maddening.
I've never seen a modern car act like this.
I did put the heat shield on the other day. I have no idea what it does temperature-wise, I forgot to get readings before I installed it.
Mine only boiled before i put in a new fuel pump. It hasn't boiled for a summer and a half now. I just have Serious fuel smell and check engine light with big levels a fuel cut on lift off in drive, with the accompanying check engine light around -22 percent.
It's really maddening.
guardcompany
Shea
Thanks! So I just need the valve that is under the hood? Need to figure out which is which.
2586050100 - VALVE
Land Cruiser; Air Switching Valve; No.1
2586050150 - VALVE
Land Cruiser; Air Switching Valve; No.2
I want to replace the other short hoses that go into the canister as well. None of the Toyota parts sites have diagrams of this part.
I need to crawl under the truck and see if the part #no. is on the hoses.
I know you can order some Toyota hose by the foot. Another option would be ordering an assortment of silicone hose cut to length with various ID like 3mm, 4mm, 5mm etc. (less expensive).
Also check your VSV's before spending the money on new ones. Techstream checks EVAP system functionality and you can also test individually.
I know you can order some Toyota hose by the foot. Another option would be ordering an assortment of silicone hose cut to length with various ID like 3mm, 4mm, 5mm etc. (less expensive).
Also check your VSV's before spending the money on new ones. Techstream checks EVAP system functionality and you can also test individually.
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I don't know how useful this might be to some who are experiencing boiling tanks, but my electrician gave me a very, very reasonable answer to why mine erupted. Again, this might just be specific to my truck but maybe it is applicable to someone else.
Essentially, the wire harness that runs to the fuel pump/sender unit had gotten pinched between, I think, the frame and the body. The wire housing was worn away to expose the bare copper - eventually, this caused a short that ran into the pump/sender (and, thus, IN the fuel tank). This is out of my breadth, but he explained that short circuits can produce very high temperatures due to the high power dissipation in the circuit, and that it is reasonable to assume that it at least contributed to the boiling tank. In my case, the short circuit manifested itself in two ways: (1) gas erupted from the filler, and (2) a capacitor in my instrument cluster exploded when it couldn't handle the full, unfiltered 12.6 V short circuit.
We repaired the damaged wire harness, replaced the sender (fuel pump was shockingly fine), and I had to find a new instrument cluster (RIP 150K odometer, hello 320K odometer), and then I had to fix a nylon fuel line that looked like it had been in contact with the steel tank and took some melting damage from the short circuit. Haven't had any boiling issues since.
Just something to check when trying to troubleshoot the boiling issue.
Essentially, the wire harness that runs to the fuel pump/sender unit had gotten pinched between, I think, the frame and the body. The wire housing was worn away to expose the bare copper - eventually, this caused a short that ran into the pump/sender (and, thus, IN the fuel tank). This is out of my breadth, but he explained that short circuits can produce very high temperatures due to the high power dissipation in the circuit, and that it is reasonable to assume that it at least contributed to the boiling tank. In my case, the short circuit manifested itself in two ways: (1) gas erupted from the filler, and (2) a capacitor in my instrument cluster exploded when it couldn't handle the full, unfiltered 12.6 V short circuit.
We repaired the damaged wire harness, replaced the sender (fuel pump was shockingly fine), and I had to find a new instrument cluster (RIP 150K odometer, hello 320K odometer), and then I had to fix a nylon fuel line that looked like it had been in contact with the steel tank and took some melting damage from the short circuit. Haven't had any boiling issues since.
Just something to check when trying to troubleshoot the boiling issue.
I'm still not convinced that the EVAP system functionality is the single source to point to regarding the fuel system over pressurization, vapor pressure many described here in this thread. The EVAP system may be processing with in its designed specification not throwing any DTC codes, but obviously there is evidence of boiling fuel at the filler cap suggests some type of pressure management system failure. It's possible that this is as simple as a poorly designed and inadequate system that was designed for use in North America - which provides argument for filing a case with NTSB and or Toyota.
If you like to DIY, I found a good step by step EVAP testing procedure to augment what's illustrated in the FSM. Its specific to Toyota systems not directly to LC/LX. As an additional resource I think this provides an effective explanation and diagnostic process of the system tests (IMO). Preface: unless you are getting recorded DTC, simply throwing money at replacing parts is probably a waste of $. If you still want to investigate system functionality, continue on. The first takeaway from this document is to know the differences in EVAP systems between model years; Early 98-2002 ( non-intrusive system) vs Late 2003+ (intrusive system) which have more or less functionality and test protocol. Second, you need to test each component in order in the EVAP system to rule out faulty components and this document helps lead you through that process.
If you are refreshing your vacuum hoses, here's a link to the Vacuum Piping parts list (scroll through all 4 parts schematics to get and overview, especially the one describing Vacuum Hose Supply Method) : VACUUM PIPING. For 2005 Toyota Land Cruiser Base 4.7L 4WD AT | Toyota
If you have Techstream, you can run an EVAP diagnostic to ensure the VSV's are opening and closing. I recommend this first.
If you like to DIY, I found a good step by step EVAP testing procedure to augment what's illustrated in the FSM. Its specific to Toyota systems not directly to LC/LX. As an additional resource I think this provides an effective explanation and diagnostic process of the system tests (IMO). Preface: unless you are getting recorded DTC, simply throwing money at replacing parts is probably a waste of $. If you still want to investigate system functionality, continue on. The first takeaway from this document is to know the differences in EVAP systems between model years; Early 98-2002 ( non-intrusive system) vs Late 2003+ (intrusive system) which have more or less functionality and test protocol. Second, you need to test each component in order in the EVAP system to rule out faulty components and this document helps lead you through that process.
If you are refreshing your vacuum hoses, here's a link to the Vacuum Piping parts list (scroll through all 4 parts schematics to get and overview, especially the one describing Vacuum Hose Supply Method) : VACUUM PIPING. For 2005 Toyota Land Cruiser Base 4.7L 4WD AT | Toyota
If you have Techstream, you can run an EVAP diagnostic to ensure the VSV's are opening and closing. I recommend this first.
- Thread starter
- #214
Not going to HIH this year, but will be there a week or two later with some of my friends. Sounds like your issue is different if you experience it in Austin. We can have days above 110 here in Sac, and have spent many days in Moab area 4500+ feet and no issues with ethanol gas.
Wheeling in the San Juan's with ethanol gas and I have high tank pressures, but no issue when using the non-ethanol gas I got in Silverton.
Ok, called dealership, diagnosis is $260. I can get a new canister for around $300, not going to get diagnosis and will just replace canister...what a racket.........
guardcompany
Shea
Yup I did the same thing last week. No thanks.
Wow i'm glad i found this thread. i'm running the Evap CEL and have largely been ignoring it. Looking like i'm going to need to repair this asap.
done, will report back if this is NOT the fix, very simple job.
forum.ih8mud.com
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
forum.ih8mud.com
guardcompany
Shea
done, will report back if this is NOT the fix, very simple job.
What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
Thanks! You are going to HIH right? I'm gonna do mine before the trip too. Gonna do a heat shield first. Hopefully this week.
yep, see you there.
