10 Mpg ?!?! (1 Viewer)

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would putting more air in the tires help with better mileage - and is it worth it?
 
James Kelly said:
would putting more air in the tires help with better mileage - and is it worth it?

I run my tires with about 42.5 psi (on highway)...It makes a fairly big difference mpg-wise (between the "normal" 32 psi to the 42.5 that I run) ..probably 2-3 mpg better..

I get 13.5 mpg on virtually every tank of gas with 33" tires and driving my 100 fairly, ...ok..VERY hard

10 mpg does seem a bit on the low side, especially with the stock tires ...
 
SINCITY100 said:
I run my tires with about 42.5 psi (on highway)...It makes a fairly big difference mpg-wise (between the "normal" 32 psi to the 42.5 that I run) ..probably 2-3 mpg better..

I get 13.5 mpg on virtually every tank of gas with 33" tires and driving my 100 fairly, ...ok..VERY hard

10 mpg does seem a bit on the low side, especially with the stock tires ...

Your running LT rated tires?? I would say he needs to look at the side wall of his tires and see what his range is for inflation. I have LT AT's on my LC and I run 38 lbs all the way around. I get 17mpg hiway and 15mpg around town on 91 octane. It you get the psi to high the ride gets really rough.
 
SWUtah said:
Your running LT rated tires?? I would say he needs to look at the side wall of his tires and see what his range is for inflation. I have LT AT's on my LC and I run 38 lbs all the way around. I get 17mpg hiway and 15mpg around town on 91 octane. It you get the psi to high the ride gets really rough.


I wasn`t actually telling him to run 42.5 lbs, I was giving my experience with my tires/psi/mpg...Gee, I hope he didnt run out and fill his tires ALL the way up ! :eek:

A rough ride?...whats that ? ;)

As for range, what is the most common max PSI on L/T`s ? 45-55psi ? ...
my MT/R`s are 65lbs ..
 
SINCITY100 said:
I wasn`t actually telling him to run 42.5 lbs, I was giving my experience with my tires/psi/mpg...Gee, I hope he didnt run out and fill his tires ALL the way up ! :eek:

A rough ride?...whats that ? ;)

As for range, what is the most common max PSI on L/T`s ? 45-55psi ? ...
my MT/R`s are 65lbs ..

I think C rated go to 65 psi and D&E go to 85 psi.
 
Hello all;

Is there a suggestion how to reduce the consumtion under normal conditions?

I have a 03 100 ;)
 
Just another data point-- my '00 gets 14-16 with mixed driving conditions. The only time I see lower, about 9-10 mpg, is when I pull a boat (~2000lbs) over a pretty hilly route.
 
Wow, you guys are awesome.... so many responses!

Yeah, I will take it in to replace filters and fluids - that's never a bad idea anyway. Also, I'll give it a few more tanks before I smack my forehead again....

Just glad to hear, all things said, I should expect more than 10 mpg; 10 mpg is what our 454 88' Chevy Suburban got pulling a 25' boat!

BTW: I had a very light foot this time around, trying to get the best mpg I could... I'll just fill up those tires (stock size) and give it another go.

Still, I love the cruiser - such a tank! I pulled someone out of a ditch the first day I got it.
 
C note said:
Wow, you guys are awesome.... so many responses!

Yeah, I will take it in to replace filters and fluids - that's never a bad idea anyway. Also, I'll give it a few more tanks before I smack my forehead again....

Just glad to hear, all things said, I should expect more than 10 mpg; 10 mpg is what our 454 88' Chevy Suburban got pulling a 25' boat!

BTW: I had a very light foot this time around, trying to get the best mpg I could... I'll just fill up those tires (stock size) and give it another go.

Still, I love the cruiser - such a tank! I pulled someone out of a ditch the first day I got it.





You might also run Redline or Techron fuel system/injector cleaner through a tank of gas before you change oil...

Jack the rear (good to check front also) end up to see if pbrake is possibly set too tight...or dragging.
 
Da Hapa said:
I don't want to move off topic but that's the complete opposite of my experience on any car/truck I've owned with a relatively high compression ratio.

I know my to be delivered 2006 LX specifies premium grade (91+) fuel.

Aren't all the 100 series LC/LX's spec'd to run on high-octane? Even the V8 4runner is spec'd for high octane, so no gain there. I'm under the impression the 2UZ engine is really designed for high octane...at least if you want to get the advertised hp/torque out of it. Running a higher comp. ratio and high octane is certainly one way carmakers can eek out a little more performance w/o increasing engine displacement. Would one rather have a 5 liter V8 that got a couple less mpg but was designed for regular?
 
Jim_Chow said:
Aren't all the 100 series LC/LX's spec'd to run on high-octane? Even the V8 4runner is spec'd for high octane, so no gain there. I'm under the impression the 2UZ engine is really designed for high octane...at least if you want to get the advertised hp/torque out of it. Running a higher comp. ratio and high octane is certainly one way carmakers can eek out a little more performance w/o increasing engine displacement. Would one rather have a 5 liter V8 that got a couple less mpg but was designed for regular?

My 2004 V8 4runner runs on 87 and that is what the book recommends. My 1999 LC runs on 91 and that is what is recommended by the book. I think they improved the computers abiity to adjust in the newer models. I am sure that if you use 91 in the newer models you do get better performance. But the adjustment factor keeps the new models from pinging.
 
C note, I would pull the codes and make sure you don’t have any O2 sensor issues etc. Then you want to clear the memory of the PO’s driving habits. I’m not positive if using the scan tool will entirely reset the ECU to the factory settings, but would start there after you pull the codes. Some vehicles can easily be reset by disconnecting the battery (use the – neg connection). The reason I say some vehicles, is because on a Subaru forum I’ve read that the brake peddle needs to be pressed until the 3rd brake light goes out. This is done to drain a capacitor that’s keeping the information stored.

All the other information/suggestions are also good and will help.
The bad thing is that if you do everything too soon, them we will not learn what really fixed the mpg issue. So keep us posted on what you do and how it helps. Then try my above method last.
Hope this helps.
DMX

PS. I run 285/75’s w/ 32psi & oxygenated fuel = 14 MPG. (50/50 hwy/city)
 
DMX84 said:
I’m not positive if using the scan tool will entirely reset the ECU to the factory settings, but would start there after you pull the codes.


Another reference to resetting the ECU. Does this thing really keep driving information in volatile memory? Is there any positive confirmation that the ECU was reset besides the clock going back to midnight? It would be nice to know that we are actually resetting something instead of just tricking ourselves into thinking we are.
 
The codes are kept in memory until they are reset. Pulling an appropriate fuse, disconnecting the battery, using the scan tool are various means to reset/delete the codes.

I get about 15 mpg overall with my LX; est. about 12-13 city. The V8 will run on 87 regular, but the ECU adjusts for the octane giving the best performance on 91 premium. It is probably more important to use high quality gas (additives) regardless of the octane, unless you need the extra performance. I have been hard presed to notice any difference in the performance between the octanes.
 

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