Oh yeah - glass 
Could you cut and go in the top? Then plug with a rubber strip
Could you cut and go in the top? Then plug with a rubber strip
10/84 HJ47 Troopy Refurbish and Build Up
- Thread starter 1tontoy
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- Thread starter
- #82
That's a good idea. Cut a slit in the top of the window frame and slide the glass down. Do you think it would weaken the structure at all?Oh yeah - glass
Could you cut and go in the top? Then plug with a rubber strip
It would definitely weaken the door.
But..... I'd just make a sheetmetal plate to cover the slit, and then use poprivets or screws to secure it--which would put the strength back into the door, and close up the slit. I'd even put the weatherstripping right over the top of it, because really, how often do you change glass?
That would be my choice, but second choice would be vent window, but with square glass to fill the gap. What I like about the rear doors you've got there is that they look like a cruiser door for the rear. Not a front door modified to fit in the rear. The sloping vent window just feels too much like a front door to me.
Looks good!!!
Dan
There is a lot of strength in the cross section of the top of the door. Given the lack of options it may be your best option. Just be sure to plan the whole procedure through before cutting. I would cut it cold - air powered body saw for example. No torch or plasma. Maybe a grinder and cut off disc verrrry carefully. Actually you may have to use a grinder given the space available up there.
- Thread starter
- #85
Thanks a lot for the ideas. I appreciate it b/c I was having a hard time weighing my options. I agree, the slanted vent windows would kill the 'original' look and so leaving it slanted isn't really an option. And, I agree that full glass (no vent windows) installed from the top is the best option.
I'm going to cut a slit in the top and try to cap it with metal or rubber. I'll probably remove the metal track/slide that is on the bottom of the glass so I don't have to cut such a thick opening.
I only have a grinder with cutoff disc and will definitely measure 3 times and cut once
I'm going to cut a slit in the top and try to cap it with metal or rubber. I'll probably remove the metal track/slide that is on the bottom of the glass so I don't have to cut such a thick opening.
I only have a grinder with cutoff disc and will definitely measure 3 times and cut once
the good news with this build - other than it being awesome, is when your done it will be worth well over $150,000!
wheres the rest of your troopy build?
wheres the rest of your troopy build?
- Thread starter
- #87
Yea, maybe $150,000 Colones!Not much to report on the HJ47 except some new rear taillights, installed a Bosch primer pump, rebuilt the odometer b/c it was stuck at 497K, BFG AT 33x10.50's on stock FJ60 rims. I'm hoping to paint it myself this summer. I drive it alot, it's my surf wagon and dog limo.
Bump.
Anything new? (like I'm one to talk, my 45 hasn't moved in two years)
Dan
Anything new? (like I'm one to talk, my 45 hasn't moved in two years)
Dan
- Thread starter
- #89
Update - trans and tcase rebuild
I'm putting together a 1HZ/H55F combo. I had a H55F w/ vacuum transfer case from a 2H that needed a rebuild - it was an early 1985 vacuum shift application. I purchased rebuild kits from Kurt at cruiseroutfitters.com and new synchros from Toyota, and already had the 1HZ input shaft.
So, I dove into the rebuild. I had to make a puller for the bearings - which was actually pretty fun. Pulling the bearings and gears was challenging b/c they were on so tight and any grease had pretty much turned to glue over time.
As part of the rebuild, I swapped in the 1HZ input shaft, and converted the transfer case to manual using used OEM parts (except the front case half. I drilled and tapped it 15 x 1.5MM for the detent ball and spring).
It seems that there are some duplicate parts if you buy both trans and tcase rebuild kits - which makes sense. Question for those who have used these kits before: there are two types of nuts that fit the trans rear output shaft - one has a flange and the other would be used with a washer. Why are there two kinds of nuts and which goes where? I was thinking the flange nut goes on the rear trans output.
I also ran into an issue with the front bearing retainer seal not fitting over the 1HZ input shaft. After some research, I sourced the proper seal.
I'm putting together a 1HZ/H55F combo. I had a H55F w/ vacuum transfer case from a 2H that needed a rebuild - it was an early 1985 vacuum shift application. I purchased rebuild kits from Kurt at cruiseroutfitters.com and new synchros from Toyota, and already had the 1HZ input shaft.
So, I dove into the rebuild. I had to make a puller for the bearings - which was actually pretty fun. Pulling the bearings and gears was challenging b/c they were on so tight and any grease had pretty much turned to glue over time.
As part of the rebuild, I swapped in the 1HZ input shaft, and converted the transfer case to manual using used OEM parts (except the front case half. I drilled and tapped it 15 x 1.5MM for the detent ball and spring).
It seems that there are some duplicate parts if you buy both trans and tcase rebuild kits - which makes sense. Question for those who have used these kits before: there are two types of nuts that fit the trans rear output shaft - one has a flange and the other would be used with a washer. Why are there two kinds of nuts and which goes where? I was thinking the flange nut goes on the rear trans output.
I also ran into an issue with the front bearing retainer seal not fitting over the 1HZ input shaft. After some research, I sourced the proper seal.
- Thread starter
- #90
Update 2 - replace upper rear cab
Well, after taking out glass from the rear of the crew cab, there was some SERIOUS rot.
I picked up the hard top panel that Whitey was selling (thanks man!). The bottom of the existing panel was good, but the top was gone. The top from Whitey had a good upper portion and a rotted lower portion. My plan was to use the good portions from both tops. This was challenging trying to measure and cut. After measuring 5,000 times, cutting, and welding, the panel was replaced. Still need to do some finish work, but the hard part is done.
Well, after taking out glass from the rear of the crew cab, there was some SERIOUS rot.
I picked up the hard top panel that Whitey was selling (thanks man!). The bottom of the existing panel was good, but the top was gone. The top from Whitey had a good upper portion and a rotted lower portion. My plan was to use the good portions from both tops. This was challenging trying to measure and cut. After measuring 5,000 times, cutting, and welding, the panel was replaced. Still need to do some finish work, but the hard part is done.
Very cool work you're doing there!
Welding that rear cab panel is impressive, well done!
New syncros was the only thing I did not do to my h55 - my old ones were within tolerance but I have yet to run it.
Welding that rear cab panel is impressive, well done!
New syncros was the only thing I did not do to my h55 - my old ones were within tolerance but I have yet to run it.
Talk to me about this.....
Is it an early/late model H55f issue, or something special that I'll need to get ordered soon?
Dan
- Thread starter
- #93
Yup, it's an early/late issue. The ID and OD of the oil seal are larger on the late model. I had to source the later bearing retainer to go with the seal. In the pic, you can see the difference in diameter of the input shaft base where the seal sits.
Here is the part number for the seal: 90311-28004
Here is the part number for the seal: 90311-28004
Hi Mate,
Hope all is well.
I tried sending you a PM but it doesnt seem to have worked. Hope it doesnt bother you posting this here....
You have done an awesome job on your 4 door landcruiser. SmiliesEspecially with those rear doors!
I have a 1983 HJ47 4 door landcruiser here in Western Australia. I just dont like the look of the rear doors as they are flat and with horizontal sliding glass which I really dont like for practical purposes plus they dont look as good.
This leads me to ask you a question. Would you consider building two more rear doors exactly as you have done for yours? PLEASE?! They look awesome and suit it perfectly.
I would of course pay you BEFORE you begin.
Let me know what you think. I am in no massive rush. Also if your happy to do it for me, let me know a price that would suit you.
We can talk about shipping etc later. I will take care of it.
I look forward to hearing from you and best of luck with your builds....
Kind regards,
Luke. S
Carnarvon, Western Australia
Hope all is well.
I tried sending you a PM but it doesnt seem to have worked. Hope it doesnt bother you posting this here....
You have done an awesome job on your 4 door landcruiser. SmiliesEspecially with those rear doors!
I have a 1983 HJ47 4 door landcruiser here in Western Australia. I just dont like the look of the rear doors as they are flat and with horizontal sliding glass which I really dont like for practical purposes plus they dont look as good.
This leads me to ask you a question. Would you consider building two more rear doors exactly as you have done for yours? PLEASE?! They look awesome and suit it perfectly.
I would of course pay you BEFORE you begin.
Let me know what you think. I am in no massive rush. Also if your happy to do it for me, let me know a price that would suit you.
We can talk about shipping etc later. I will take care of it.
I look forward to hearing from you and best of luck with your builds....
Kind regards,
Luke. S
Carnarvon, Western Australia
- Thread starter
- #96
Hey Mate,
I appreciate the interest. I'm more than happy to help. I think that shipping would make it very expensive for you. There are some great cruiserheads in AU who can weld and parts in AU are plentiful compared to USA. Have you tried to work with someone locally in AU? If you can't find someone in AU to build some rear doors, let me know.
I appreciate the interest. I'm more than happy to help. I think that shipping would make it very expensive for you. There are some great cruiserheads in AU who can weld and parts in AU are plentiful compared to USA. Have you tried to work with someone locally in AU? If you can't find someone in AU to build some rear doors, let me know.
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Bump for progress a report? This truck is wicked.
How hard is it to mate an H55 to my 2F? Anyone know what I would have to do? Don't want to sidetrack your awesome build. Love what you are doing. I actually considered the same thing and also cutting the back roof off my LV to create a similar rig. In the end could not bring myself to butcher such a nice LV. Great job.
- Thread starter
- #99
LOL, don't worry about sidetracking this build because I've already been sidetracked by a 64 LV - runs and drives well with all original metal and drivetrain and currently doing a frame-on restoration!
No issue mating an H55 (from an H or F series motor) to your 2F - it will bolt right up. You'll need a split case and depending on the year of the split case you will need to provision it for the fifth gear oiler cup which funnels oil to the bearing. I say go for the H55! There is a guy near me with one (includes original tcase) for sale (Southern California), if you are interested - it will need to be gone through.
BTW, does anyone know what color my LV is? Is that Colorado Beige or Sundance White or ??
No issue mating an H55 (from an H or F series motor) to your 2F - it will bolt right up. You'll need a split case and depending on the year of the split case you will need to provision it for the fifth gear oiler cup which funnels oil to the bearing. I say go for the H55! There is a guy near me with one (includes original tcase) for sale (Southern California), if you are interested - it will need to be gone through.
BTW, does anyone know what color my LV is? Is that Colorado Beige or Sundance White or ??
