10/84 HJ47 Troopy Refurbish and Build Up

[1tontoy]

Hi all,

Finally got around to refurbishing my 10/84 HJ47 Troopy that I imported from AU. It came to me very straight, with little rust, and basically stock. Everything works as it should, so I decided its a good candidate for more TLC.

A little history: Bought from an elderly gentleman a few hundred KM's inland from Melbourne, in the north of the state of Victoria. The PO owned it since the 80's, but was not the original owner. It was his fishing and camping rig. I shipped it out of AU last year and it arrive in FEB '09 (I actually bought it at end '07, beginning of '08 and stored it for a year on his ranch).

Since it arrived, I've just done minor things like oils and fluids, filters, glow plugs, sea foam, a good cleaning, several short interval oil changes to flush...and drive to go surfing, etc.

Here is what it looked like when it arrive:

 

[1tontoy]

the fun begins...

Fast forward several months....and I was tired of thinking what I wanted to do to it. So, I decided the first thing I would tackle would be the interior. There were 3 small rust spots that I wanted to repair. My plan was to cut out the rust and weld in some new metal...

Here are some pics of it after cleaning out the interior...these pics show only surface rust..

 

[1tontoy]

more interior pics before any work done

This is what I started with...

 

[1tontoy]

now to the floors

The floors were where the rust needed to be repaired. There were three small spots: 2 spots on the passenger side, 1 spot on the drivers side....easily repairable.

Here are some pics of the 3 spots....

 

[1tontoy]

time to cut and weld

I've welded in the past. I didn't want to pay someone to repair the rust...I would rather spend the money on a welder and do it myself, and own a welder at the end of the day....

First, I bought a gallon of POR-15. My plan was to scuff the interior and paint in some POR-15 on the entire tub, as well as the underbody areas that I've seen rusty on other rigs (the rear quarters, wheel wells, etc). These areas did not have any signs of rust because the truck had been undercoated many many years ago. But, I did it so it can make another 25 years without a problem. (sorry no pics of the POR-15)

So the fun began....

 

[1tontoy]

fast forward to today

After welding in new metal in the 3 spots. I put a nice coating of POR-15 over the repaired spots (on both sides, inside and out).

Next, my plan was to have the interior coated with Rhino Liner over the POR-15. Over kill? Maybe, but l want this rig to out live me I called my local shops and haggled a bit. I wanted to get their undercoating sprayed in, as well. So, after some back and forth, I worked out a deal for both Rhino and undercoating.

I had rhino'ed my FJ62 many years ago and was please with the result. Back then, it was half the price!!! But, I bit the bullet anyway. I looked at the do-it-yourself stuff, but decided to let the pro's do it. Plus, there is a LIFETIME warranty...Did I mention I want this to out live me....

Pics of the rear tub....I think it turned out great!

 

[1tontoy]

more rhino pics

Here are some more pics of the rhino lining....notice the repaired rust spots....looks pretty good...

 

[1tontoy]

and more rhino pics...

some more of the rhino liner...again, notice the repaired rust spots....

 

[1tontoy]

last of the rhino pics

Last rhino pics....Sorry, pics of the undercoating aren't very good, but the undercoating turned out great, too

NEXT: Install some new OEM tailights, OEM dome light, refurbish the seats, install H55F (got one waiting), install an OME lift, repaint exterior (might do it myself), build a tire carrier rear bumper, stereo and CB, wire in some hella lights, refurbish the top. The list goes on. But, I think I made some good progress in the last few weeks....

Stay tuned.....

 

[Owyhee Jackass]

Looks great. I'd like to do the same to my FJ55 (rhino the interior, tinted white though) but it's just not in the budget right now.

Keep the pics coming.

Dan

 

[2manycruisers]

Have you driven it with the rhino liner and can you tell a difference in noise level? I'm thinking of doing that to mine, also.

 

[1tontoy]

I have driven it on the highway since the rhino. It does deaden or muffle the road noise to more of a deeper, bass-like tone....I've got all new weatherstripping for the front and ambi doors, which will help too.

One thing to note: make sure they don't fill your threads with rhino. I had some threads that I had to clean out.

Have you driven it with the rhino liner and can you tell a difference in noise level? I'm thinking of doing that to mine, also.

 

[1tontoy]

Dome light Question

I bought a new OEM dome light that was listed to fit upto 1984 (from Coolcruisers). From the pic, you can see there is a difference in the wiring that is attached. Also, on the back of the housing, the NEW one says '8DN' and the original one says '3NX'.

Did they send me the wrong part?

 

[1tontoy]

Just called Coolcruisers about the dome light. Apparently in 10/84, the first cruisers got the single-lead dome light and later models the double-lead dome light. I knew my troopy was the latest VIN in the registry, so this helps confirm that I have one of the last made....kinda cool....

 

[DieselFumes]

nice! All the same things I want to do to mine, I have a little less rust but same area...

 

[Chamba]

Just called Coolcruisers about the dome light. Apparently in 10/84, the first cruisers got the single-lead dome light and later models the double-lead dome light. I knew my troopy was the latest VIN in the registry, so this helps confirm that I have one of the last made....kinda cool....

The first two-wire dome lights began in 1981 when the door-activated PIN swich became standard. Yours should have two wires with two plugs like your old one: one hot wire, and one activated by the door switch. It gets its ground from the roof pilar. The one you got from CCOT will not turn on with the door, as it does not have the green wire or the third position for the switch. That one is for a 79-80 40 series I believe.

The Rhino line looks great- I've always wanted to do that.

Josh

 

[1tontoy]

new wheels and tires

HJ47, you wouldn't happen to have the part number for the later model dome light? 81240‑90802?

Picked up a set of 5 17" FJCruiser wheels with 35" BFG Mud KM2's. The tires are almost new, and the rims are in great shape. Not sure if they will be too big, or if I will like them on the HJ47. I'm going to put an OME heavy kit on. For those running 35s, how badly do they rub?

 

[1tontoy]

UPDATE: Drive train upgrade

The 2H in it has high KM's (well over 500K) and really needs a turbo and a 5 speed. The motor still runs great, but I'm skeptical about adding a turbo to such an old engine. So, I decided to go with a turbo 1HZ and H55. I have a H55 out of a HJ61, which needs a new input shaft b/c it's damaged. I went ahead and picked up a 1HZ input, and plan on installing the shaft, along with new gaskets, etc.

--plan is to use HZJ7X frame-side and engine-side brackets for an OEM look.
--FJ40 radiator
--will keep the tcase ebrake
--snorkel - probably homemade

Should be interesting...

 

[Bear]

1Ton,

As HJ47 said, 10/81 marked a production change in the dome lamps, although externally they all look the same.

From 9/73 until 10/81, the 81240-90300 was the one-wire lamp. Internally the first ones had a different switch which was later changed to the cheaper pivot variety.

In 10/81 two versions were made for the 12V vehicles: the Australian and European markets got the 81240-90800 along with the A-pillar door jamb switches and the corresponding bump-outs in the doors to activate them. The General market got the 81240-90802 dome lamp, and likely not the bumped-out doors.

However, there are some variations, as with the US market, and the Saudi market, it seems some vehicles were delivered with the door-activated setups, and in some cases doors were grabbed for use on the assembly line with bump-outs even when the assembled trucks were not wired to take the switches or the special lamp. And of course, over the years different owners can and do change a lot of stuff.

Likely your existing lamp is the 90800.

Can you repair it--it looks toasted.

Good luck.

 

[herbs]

Are you sure you'd have enough room to keep the transfer case park brake with the H55 in there? IMO the t case park brake is rubbish anyway.