thanks very much for the list. this is very helpful.
im not sure if the rotor is OEM, but I ordered a BOSCH Rotor and Pads to replace it. I can return them if OEM is the way to go.
The caliper is gtg, will have a brake flush and will repack my RH bearings on the other side.
I'm gonna clean up the items in the hub and take pics for a full autopsy
Bosch was once a good name, if still the case today I can't say. Many go with aftermarket rotors. Either to save $ or too get into slotted and drilled.
I do see cart loads of car-quest rotors going into Wholesale parts dep of/for the shop of local Toyota Dealership. The same shop front end specialist master mechanic has told me; they see warp issue with non OEM rotors. So checking run-out, of even new rotors, is a good practice.
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Here's why I'm very interested to see "full autopsy".
I've seen my share of preload not set and wheel bearings set to loose when serviced.
Also where lock washers not properly set. Some where all tabs bent in, not locking adjusting nut to locking nut. . Some where the key/keep of lock washer was worn down to point it should not have been reused. Some, where no tabs of lock washer bent, being the worst case. I see that a lot from ASE cert mechanics, even from Toyota/Lexus Dealerships.
My 2001LC which I had almost 15 years. Shamefully, I did not do a wheel bearing service until 40k miles after purchase. I never even checked for loose wheel bearings, as bearings were serviced at a Toyota Dealership, my bad. On it's first wheel bearing service that I did, at 98K miles on odometer. I found DS lock washer was without even one tab bent, so not locking wheel bearing nuts at all. Claw washer was deeply scored and spindle showed indications (bluing) of high heat build up. Back of spindle where large bearing butts against, was badly scored. Which indicates hub was move in and out some, pounding of back of spindle. These were very loose wheel bearings nuts and not locked at all. Also this being DS means forward wheel spin can spin off nuts of DS side, as they are standard right hand threads.
So here is my case of DS with wheel adjusting and locking nuts not locked and loose. Yet over 40K of driving this way they did not walk off the spindle. But is was almost all HWY and city streets, with very little and lite wheeling.
Yours walked off, a month after a studs repair?
My guess your hub had already walked off to the point where great deal of pressure (angle) was on rotors disk within calipers hold. You came down on DS tire hard, from the three point. At that time your fracture the disk at rotors hub and possible popped the snap ring off at same time. Then wheel bearing nuts just spun off as you drove after this. Losing safety of disk riding in caliper which was now fracture and snap ring both have effect of holding on wheel hub. That with disk separated, the area between hub flange and spindle threads grew enough too allow nuts room to spin off.
So pay close attention as you remove grease cap and hub flange, as to what parts are seen and what order parts are in. Should see in this order: grease cap, snap ring, hub flange, hub flange gasket, lock nut, lock washer, adjusting nut, claw washer, small wheel bearing.
Would be a good idea to video tape with a friend present.
BTW: Snap ring is non reusable part. Whereas I do not think this was cause of failure. The shop that replaced the lug should show snap ring on parts list. It shows if they followed or didn't follow the factory recommended procedure.
