02 LX 470 spiral cable air bag light question (1 Viewer)

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Feb 13, 2010
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Air bag light was one, horn and cruise not working. Figured it was spiral cable. Replaced it. Horn now works and cruise works but air bag light still on. Does the air bag light need to be manually reset or should it go off automatically if the spiral cable fixed the problem? I did check for continuity through the airbag portion of the spiral cable wire and there was none so it does seem that a spiral cable fault was at least one thing triggering the airbag warning light.
 
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I would recommend getting yourself a copy of Techstream ( not very expensive to buy on ebay) This is dealer-level software , you
you can connect your laptop and clear all kinds of codes. I think airbag codes need to be cleared with Techstream (but I could be wrong)
 
Yes, just got the 100 Series and I've been looking for Techstream. It appears I need a Microsoft computer to run it? In only have a Macair at the moment. I did try my cheap OBDII scanner but it showed no codes.
 
Yes, just got the 100 Series and I've been looking for Techstream. It appears I need a Microsoft computer to run it? In only have a Macair at the moment. I did try my cheap OBDII scanner but it showed no codes.

Techstream will run within a VM without issue. All Macs in our house and no issues...other than I haven't figured out how to turn off the stupid airbag light after a spiral cable replacement (user error for sure, not very patient with janky windows software).

OBD scanners won't do anything for you. This one I think has to be Techstream DIY or dealer.
 
You can get an airbag code-reading OBD2 scanner for around $160 at Harbor Freight. I recently used one to diagnose my airbag light - it read (and was able to clear) all of the SRS/airbag codes. It was the whole clockspring in my rig, which I replaced for around $90.
 
You can get an airbag code-reading OBD2 scanner for around $160 at Harbor Freight. I recently used one to diagnose my airbag light - it read (and was able to clear) all of the SRS/airbag codes. It was the whole clockspring in my rig, which I replaced for around $90.
Thank you very much. I bought that code reader. It both read the codes and erased them getting rid of my airbag light. It had 4 codes all related to the failed clock spring/spiral cable. Harbor Freight even had an open box one so it only cost me $128. Not as versatile as Techstream but it does diagnose a far wider range of vehicles. My old scanner was a $20 which I bought 20 years ago so it was time for an upgrade.
 
The failed clock spring/spiral cable.

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I recently replaced the clock spring/spiral cable on our 02 LX470. It was in very bad shape when I disassembled the spring itself. All the insulation was gone from about 2" of the wire and the copper had been folded back on itself a number of times. Horn had been activating intermittently and cruise light going on and off. Airbag light was on. If the horn and cruise control were being activated by shorts in that cable, why wasn't the airbag? I've watched some Youtube videos and people explode airbags by just connecting the wires to a 12 volt battery. Did I just dodge a bullet or is there something in the airbag which would stop deployment if 12 volts were accidentally applied to the wires by a failure in the clock spring? Obviously the SRS computer had detected a problem as there were 3 codes stored but I don't understand how that computer could stop the airbag from firing if it can be fired out of the car with 12 volts.
 
I recently replaced the clock spring/spiral cable on our 02 LX470. It was in very bad shape when I disassembled the spring itself. All the insulation was gone from about 2" of the wire and the copper had been folded back on itself a number of times. Horn had been activating intermittently and cruise light going on and off. Airbag light was on. If the horn and cruise control were being activated by shorts in that cable, why wasn't the airbag? I've watched some Youtube videos and people explode airbags by just connecting the wires to a 12 volt battery. Did I just dodge a bullet or is there something in the airbag which would stop deployment if 12 volts were accidentally applied to the wires by a failure in the clock spring? Obviously the SRS computer had detected a problem as there were 3 codes stored but I don't understand how that computer could stop the airbag from firing if it can be fired out of the car with 12 volts.
I’m taking my 2005 Lx back Toyota per their recommendation after they put in a new rack. After the new rack was put in the airbag light came on. They said it was the spiral cable and would replace it at no cost to me. How long should installation take for a new spiral cable at the dealership. They said an hour. But I’m kind of incredulous. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
An hour is very reasonable. It's less than 30 min of actual work once it's pulled into the service bay.
 
Hello Fellow Cruisers,

I have the same issue with my 2006 LC. My Horn does not work and the Airbag Light is ON constantly. Cruise control does work and the Radio mode / Volume does function properly. In reading some older treads on this forum and watching youtube 100 series videos, the majority of the folks pointed the problem to the Clock Spring. I just received my new (damn expensive) OEM Clock Spring from the Toyota Dealership and installed it today. Unfortunately, The Horn still does not work and the Airbag Light is still ON. I have double checked "all" of the fuses and there is no broken fuses. The 10A Horn Fuse is still good. Is it possible that I could have gotten a lemon OEM Clock Spring from the Toyota Dealer? I was going to discuss this issue with the Dealer next week but would like to hear your thoughts.

The recommended OBD2 scanner mentioned above may be able to clear the Airbag Light, but how would I get the Horn to function again?

Thank you in advance for your response and advice!
 
I’m taking my 2005 Lx back Toyota per their recommendation after they put in a new rack. After the new rack was put in the airbag light came on. They said it was the spiral cable and would replace it at no cost to me. How long should installation take for a new spiral cable at the dealership. They said an hour. But I’m kind of incredulous. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi Dsirias,
First to answer your question, Yes, I was also quoted 1hr. I actually replaced the Spiral Cable (Clock Spring) myself under 1hr and I'm not a certified Toyota Tech.

I'm curious how your LX is doing after the Dealer replaced the Spiral Cable? Did the Airbag Light go Off?

Did your rack failed that's why it was replaced by Toyota?

Cheers!
 
Just FYI, it's highly likely the dealer broke the spiral cable as part of rack installation. if they didn't line the steering wheel and rack up in the exact same spot, the wheel would have turned past the limits of the spiral cable and snapped it. The best way to do it is to just pull the clockspring after rack replacement and reset it to be indexed with the new rack and alignment. This adds maybe 30 minutes to the job.

Glad they replaced it for free, but that's an absolute rookie move for a dealership to make and they shouldn't have let it leave the shop like that.
 
@Rednexus - The best way to do it is to just pull the clockspring after rack replacement and reset it to be indexed with the new rack and alignment. This adds maybe 30 minutes to the job.

I believe I need to do this (after I replaced my rack), but how do you know where the 'center' of the clockspring movement is? Do you twirl it back and forth (as if you were tightening the spools on a cassette tape) until you sense/feel what the 'middle of travel' is for the clockspring? I can find nothing on the internet about this.

The reason I believe I need to do it is that the steering wheel is now tight and squeaks a bit on full left hand turns. It did not do this before the rack job. If I had ignored the Mud direction to turn the wheel fully to the right before rack removal, I wouldn't have had this issue.
 
@Rednexus - The best way to do it is to just pull the clockspring after rack replacement and reset it to be indexed with the new rack and alignment. This adds maybe 30 minutes to the job.

I believe I need to do this (after I replaced my rack), but how do you know where the 'center' of the clockspring movement is? Do you twirl it back and forth (as if you were tightening the spools on a cassette tape) until you sense/feel what the 'middle of travel' is for the clockspring? I can find nothing on the internet about this.

The reason I believe I need to do it is that the steering wheel is now tight and squeaks a bit on full left hand turns. It did not do this before the rack job. If I had ignored the Mud direction to turn the wheel fully to the right before rack removal, I wouldn't have had this issue.
Yes. On a GX470 it has 5 rotations. I go all the way to one side (finger-spinning), spin it 2.5 rotations back, and make sure the index marks are lined up (they are on the spring itself). At 2.5 rotations, mine is usually within a mm or two of being lined up perfectly. Then, I put the wheel back on, as close to center as possible.

I'm guessing at least the later 100s use the same or similar clocksprings as a GX (they have the same steering wheel). Not sure about the earlier ones, but I'd expect the same process to work.
 
@Rednexus - Thanks much - just what I had hoped to hear. I will report back when I get around to this.
 
@Rednexus - I pulled my steering wheel today and my clock spring moves easily 2.5 turns to the right, but when turned to the left, it comes to a stop and squeaks after 1.5 turns. Recall that my steering wheel seems to bind a bit at extreme (full) left turns (after my steering rack job wherein likely messed up the clock spring alignment). Of course, I managed to get the wheel off by one spline when reassembling, so I got to do the job twice.

I guess I will wait for my clock spring to break or fail before doing anything else - not sure I care enough to replace the clock spring at this point. I guess I could get a non-OEM replacement for cheap and try that. Thanks for your tips/advice on this!
 
Perhaps a silly question, but does this fall under a safety obligation from the dealer network? My light is on and I'm not looking to spend too much time on it if I can avoid it.

Two decades ago I had a Honda seat belt failure and it was a lifetime obligation from Honda to fix it free of charge. Airbag seems like a similar deal, but I'm not seeing anyone else talk about any sort of obligation.
 
@Rednexus - I pulled my steering wheel today and my clock spring moves easily 2.5 turns to the right, but when turned to the left, it comes to a stop and squeaks after 1.5 turns. Recall that my steering wheel seems to bind a bit at extreme (full) left turns (after my steering rack job wherein likely messed up the clock spring alignment). Of course, I managed to get the wheel off by one spline when reassembling, so I got to do the job twice.

I guess I will wait for my clock spring to break or fail before doing anything else - not sure I care enough to replace the clock spring at this point. I guess I could get a non-OEM replacement for cheap and try that. Thanks for your tips/advice on this!
Assuming your '99 100 has an airbag, I would suggest replacing the clockspring as it's what triggers the airbag in the event of a collision., just in case it breaks fully in the future. I got a non-OEM clockspring for my GX for around $100 (when I broke it during my DIY rack install :)) and it works just fine.
 
Perhaps a silly question, but does this fall under a safety obligation from the dealer network? My light is on and I'm not looking to spend too much time on it if I can avoid it.

Two decades ago I had a Honda seat belt failure and it was a lifetime obligation from Honda to fix it free of charge. Airbag seems like a similar deal, but I'm not seeing anyone else talk about any sort of obligation.
It's less than a 30 minute job to replace the spring. All you need is a few phillips and torx screwdrivers and a 19mm socket. You don't even need a steering wheel puller as the wheel will pop off with a few yanks. Worth it to have a fully-functioning airbag when navigating our distracted-driver filled roads.
 

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