Me 40 is down again…Ideas, suggestions? (1 Viewer)

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Jul 29, 2005
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Houston
As usual for me, this will be long winded…

Problem:
The previous owners, God bless them, have made a hellish mess of many things on my 40 but especially the electrical system. At any given time, I would loose head lights, blinkers, tail lights, etc… but now a new problem has cropped up. After the 40 gets warm, after about 10 minutes of driving, it will sputter and die while driving at a constant speed. It will not die while shifting through the gears or while idling. It will die when under a constant load, like driving down the highway or frontage road. When it dies, all I have to do is turn off the ignition key, and then start it back up. It will start just fine and run for another minute or so then die again.

With all of the other electrical problems including the constant battery drain that will kill it in two days, I assumed that the problem lay there. The previous owner had installed on of those Painless wiring harnesses complete with the modern fuse box yet the original fuse box was still there and being used. After tearing into the wiring with a vengeance, I discovered that the Painless kit was only hooked up to the electric choke on my Weber with a constant power and the rest of the wires were just hanging out under the dash. I ripped out the Painless harness along with a dozen other wires that who knows what were for that were spliced into every conceivable place, clean up the factory wires, ran my own ignition hot wire for the choke, worked over the factory fuse box with a Dremel and sand paper, bundled and tied all of the wires nicely into wire looms and tested everything. That solved all of my issues with the lights and six hours later life was good.

This did not solve the issue with the Cruiser dieing under constant load. Do you have any suggestions? Could it be some type of ignition module in the distributor or some other ignition part getting too hot and loosing conductivity?
 
Spike;

Just off the top of my head, I would suspect a fuel feed problem. Trace the carb fuel line back to the tank. Look for a fuel filter, either an oem model or aftermarket in line filter.

The filter that installed in my 80-FJ40 needs replacing about once a year or so.

How old is the fuel pump? A new fuel pump really helped out on my system.

What kind of ignition system is installed? Is it original?
The original distributor is labeled 19100-61101; which u will not be able to see very easily while dist is installed. The coil is 90919-02083.

Will the cruiser idle for say 10-15 minutes? Check the battery voltage while idling. It should be 13.5 to 15.5 volts.

Keep us posted

...
 
Define "sputter".

It could be anything from the vague description.

Electrical problems tend to be on or off. It just dies, runs, dies.
Fuel problems tend to buck and spit back from the carb.
Exhaust problems the engine progressively looses power until it won't run any more.
 
fuel..

The reason why I thought it might not be a fuel problem is that I can run it hard through the gears with not problems at all. It is only as an easy crusing speed that it dies.

It will cut in an out a couple of times before dieing almost as if some cylinders are not firing.

Igntion is all original and old as hell. Pardon the dumb question but should my 1/80 have a rotor or points?
 
Spike;

The distributor has a cap and rotor. It is a reluctance type of ignition. The points are replaced with a rotating magnet and pick up coil. This is fed to a control box on the RiteFront fender and the coil. Check the terminals on the coil; I am suspecting corrosion and if that is the case, it could be causing the ignition to cut out at the right engine vibration point. I've had that happen to me.

Also u might check the high voltage wires [coil and plug wires] for continuity with an ohm meter. If they are original they are toast. Original plug wires are good for maybe 30-40,000 miles and then they start to break down. Lets hope the plugs are not original too!

The original ignition system on this model/year FJ40 is damn near bullet proof.

I'm curious if the distributor still has the rubber boot still intact?

...
 
.

Thanks for the help, I will check that out. I have been foaming at the mouth wanting to do a total ignition rebuilt from rotor to coil to wires to plugs, etc so I guess it is time.

What do you think about going all MSD for the ignition system over factory?

No rubber boot, plug wires are not factory but are not in good shape.
 
Spike;

I'm not too familiar with MSD. I run the JACOBs system [computer and wires]. I have an old points type distributor driving the JACOBS.

For your system, I would start with new plugs and magnecor wires; the distributor is probably good to go.

...
 
I already have one of those MSD 6A ignition "brains" sitting on my shelf from my 5.0 Mustang days. I was thinking of trying to adapt it with a MSD coil, wires cap and rotor.

I will contact MSD tech people to see if this is possible and what they recomend. That way, I start with a high powered and new ignition system. The MSD system rocked on the Stang.

Thanks for the help. If that is the route I end up going, I will repost a write up on it.
 
When you're all through changing out all of those ignition parts go back and get the carburator rebuilt. Sounds like you're not getting enough fuel from the main jet circuits in there.
 
I had a coil die on the highway and it did something really similar to this.
Also, as stated above, change the fuel filter.

Get new coil and a tune up kit (cap, rotor, NGK plugs and Toyota plug wires). Regardless if this particular issue is a fuel or electrical problem, sounds like you need all this stuff anyway.
 
I had a similiar problem on my 40 when I first got it. I replaced cap/rotor/points/ballast resistor/coil/carburator/fuel pump/fuel filters. It was driving me nuts. Truck would idle for hours, but try to take it for a drive, and it would choke and die. Let it sit a minute or so, fire right up go for a while, and die again. After throwing hundreds of dollars at it a coworker suggested checking the gas tank. It turned out to be dead bugs (this truck sat for 8-10 years) in the gas tank that kept plugging the pickup tube. Flushed out the tank, been fine ever since.
 

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