Desierable years (1 Viewer)

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AlaskanWheeler

AlaskanWheeler

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I am new to the 80 series and am not very familiar with some of there options and availablity. I do know that I would like to own one for my growing family. So what years are better than others and what years should I avoid? I would mostly use it as a daily driver and moderate off-road use, I would like the factory locking diffs though. If any more info is needed please ask; this is eventually going to be my next purchase.
Thanks a lot.
 
As already mentioned, locking diffs place you in the 93-97 year range. If you want air bags it will be 95-97 if you do not want airbags it will be 93-94.
 
if you read between the lines, dan is saying go for a locked 93 :D
and in complete unbiasedness i have to agree...
 
The final year in a model series is always a safe bet ... so obviously 1997 is the premier year for an 80 series. Far superior to any of those previous years, especially the models that sport special ed, yellow bus trannys ... :D


;p
 
I went for the Lexus LX450 for the vastly superior climate control, wood trim, 6 disk CD and subwoofer! :D

Find one that fits your need in the best condition possible with good repair records and buy it! It may take some patience, they can be hard to find.
 
Contrary to Tyler's position, the last year of a series may be the worst*. To avoid reordering assembly parts from various automotive suppliers which have large minimum orders, they'll try to finish out the model year with whatever's on hand. Often, they'll go to a bin of previously rejected parts due to quality and use them up - such as head gaskets.

On the other hand, the first year of production is usually the best because the manufacturer knows the vehicle must be perfect when the new model is introduced**. Plus the dies are fresh and new, the suppliers machines are freshly tooled for the new parts, etc and an extra assembly staffing is used to smooth out the first year bumps. The first year of production is paramount and things go slightly downhill from there, with the degree of downhill determined by the manufacturer's quality procedures. Toyota is very good.

So, go for a locked 93 - the premier fZJ. The 97's on the other hand, simply blow chunks.

DougM



































*this is a lie
**so is this
 
I'd vote for the 96 or the 97 and avoid the 40th and CE's in 97. Just my view and what do I know.
 
Christo once said something along the lines of "Get the best vehicle you can find with the lowest mileage and in the best possible condition you can afford". That statement probably over shadows the "which year" question.

Having said that, Junk's suggestion of 96 & 97 is probably a good one. They will tend to have lower miles.

Also I'm not talking about deltas of 20K miles or anything. More like comparing a truck with 90K compared to 150K.
 
I like ABS, SRS, OBDII, R134, lockers, full floating axles, rear disks, 16" rims, the newer dash, the 1FZ, most of those were sprinkled in from 93 until 95, 96 and 97 are about almost identical so I limited my search to 96-97 the later 80’s delete the PAIR valve and have a different MAF sensor making them slightly simpler under the hood, over the years you do loose the much larger but hydro-mechanical 442 transmission and “brass” radiator, weather or not those were better is debated I don’t have the answer. OBDII makes it a bit easier to work on the engine systems. I like the LX450 although I also looked at 96-97 LC If I had found the right LC first I would have got it.

The flip side is the later trucks cost considerably more but the prices have been falling lately.


Do we have a complete list of year changes somewhere? Slee’s is a good start but not complete, I know all that stuff is in this forum somewhere but not all in one place, would be nice to have the stuff from the recent year identification thread in there also. -B- is maintaining a good LX-LC difference list, would be nice to have a similar year to year difference list also.
 
I'd recommend the '92 with no lockers and the super slow 3FE. How can you go wrong? Oh yeah, one other thing make sure the PO was a POS, that help's.
 
T Y L E R said:
The final year in a model series is always a safe bet ... so obviously 1997 is the premier year for an 80 series. Far superior to any of those previous years, especially the models that sport special ed, yellow bus trannys ... :D


;p
Click to expand...
Hey I wouldn't trade that solid yellow bus tranny, for that whimpy 4-Runner Tranny that 95 and ups have! :D
 
cc93cruiser said:
Hey I wouldn't trade that solid yellow bus tranny, for that whimpy 4-Runner Tranny that 95 and ups have! :D
Click to expand...

To summarize:

'93-94 models = A442F Tranny (AKA "Primitive Bus Tranny") = solenoid problems, harsh shifting, flaring problems

'95-97 models = A343F Tranny (AKA "Modern Tranny") = "check ball" problem which is not a functional problem but just an annoying noise and is rare among the '95-97 owners with whom I have spoken.

Another data point: the two highest-mileage 80-series cruisers reported on this forum (both with over 300k) had the A343F tranny.

The '97 has quite a few improvements over the '93-94 models, including reinforcement of the C pillars to prevent cracks and a slew of other smaller improvements.
 
alaskacruiser said:
To summarize:

'93-94 models = A442F Tranny (AKA "Primitive Bus Tranny") = solenoid problems, harsh shifting, flaring problems

'95-97 models = A343F Tranny (AKA "Modern Tranny") = "check ball" problem which is not a functional problem but just an annoying noise and is rare among the '95-97 owners with whom I have spoken.

Another data point: the two highest-mileage 80-series cruisers reported on this forum (both with over 300k) had the A343F tranny.

The '97 has quite a few improvements over the '93-94 models, including reinforcement of the C pillars to prevent cracks and a slew of other smaller improvements.
Click to expand...

Hey, and I still wouldn't trade that solid yellow bus tranny, for that whimpy 4-Runner Tranny that 95 and ups have! :D
 
Tools R Us said:
I went for the Lexus LX450 for the vastly superior climate control, wood trim, 6 disk CD and subwoofer! :D
Click to expand...

Agreed. :D

After you find a nice LX, post back here and we'll tell you how to chisle off that wood trim, disable the crappy climate control, and yank out that worthless subwoofer.

Unfortunately, you'll have to live with the 400 holes in the body covered by plastic cladding and the disabled RR sliding window as we have no fix for those issues.

:flipoff2:

-B-
 
I think it depends on what you will be building it for also. If it is more a weekend warrior for hard core wheeling and you can do most of your own work. I would get a earlier year so you do not worry too much when you destory body panels, and scratch it. It is is a expendition type of build, the one with medium miles and still you do not care much about the body except to keep it clean and bang out dents. Now the all show, no go truck which you only drive on the pavement. Then I would buy the one with the least miles and best records, with the nicest paint in the color you want. Meaning you will spend more for this truck in the begining.
So what kind of build are you going for Show or go? More information is always better then less. later robbie
 
robbie said:
I think it depends on what you will be building it for also. If it is more a weekend warrior for hard core wheeling and you can do most of your own work. I would get a earlier year so you do not worry too much when you destory body panels, and scratch it. It is is a expendition type of build, the one with medium miles and still you do not care much about the body except to keep it clean and bang out dents. Now the all show, no go truck which you only drive on the pavement. Then I would buy the one with the least miles and best records, with the nicest paint in the color you want. Meaning you will spend more for this truck in the begining.
So what kind of build are you going for Show or go? More information is always better then less. later robbie
Click to expand...

Err.... why does it say 4.7l in your sig?
 
ultimauk said:
Err.... why does it say 4.7l in your sig?
Click to expand...


Cause he's the man and has done more with 80 cruisers than most of us can imagine........in other words, bored and stroked :cool: .
 
Beowulf said:
Agreed. :D
After you find a nice LX, post back here and we'll tell you how to chisle off that wood trim, disable the crappy climate control, and yank out that worthless subwoofer.

Unfortunately, you'll have to live with the 400 holes in the body covered by plastic cladding and the disabled RR sliding window as we have no fix for those issues.

:flipoff2:

-B-
Click to expand...
B-WULF???
I never would've taken you for someone who'd be so jealous of all the nifty LX 450 add-ons that he'd take shots at them... :confused:

The wood trim does not fade, so there's no need to chisel it off. The non-functioning sliding window is a feature, not a bug/problem. The auto-climate control works great, IMO. There are less than 150 holes in the body to support the "cladding", not 400 :flipoff2: And that "cladding" you speak of with such distain is what I liked to think of as body armor :flipoff2:
:D

Has anyone suggested that anyone looking for an 80 should simply purchase the newest one, with the lowest miles, in the best condition available in their local market? That's what I'd suggest...
 
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