Removal of emissions equipment.

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M

muddymudskipper

Joined
Aug 9, 2004
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Has anyone ever tried or does anyone know how to remove all the emission stuff on the FJ60's. I have heard you can do some things to eliminate some of the hoses and things under the hood. I just don't really know what that entails.

I have a bad hose from the EGR valve to the cooler that I am in the process of replaceing, but I was wondering if you can cap both ends and call it good. Thanks for taking the time!
 
There are some articles in the tech section on removing emissions stuff.
 
Cruisergreg said:
Look here: http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/smog/jimc-approved.jpg

A properly desmogged 2F will provide a great improvement in power and driveability. Let mw know if you have specific questions.
Click to expand...

hi crzr.cg. i have some ? - when you say proper what exatly do you mean?
- what carb are you running
- what distributer
- are you running headers


im torn between a desmog! not sure what to do ,my 2f runs great but i know my air pump is on its last legs, i also wouldnt mine simplifying my engine comp. while gaining a little h.p. and m.p.g.

i also dont have to deal with emission or smog tests here in florida and dont plan on selling anytime soon!

any input on this issue from you or anyone would be appr.

thx freeborn :idea:
 
freebornred said:
hi crzr.cg. i have some ? - when you say proper what exatly do you mean?
- what carb are you running
- what distributer
- are you running headers
Click to expand...
By proper I mean a well thought-out, understood project. I've helped several people who just started removing things without understanding what they were doing and ended up with problems. And you don't need to remove everything - cold start stuff, the vapor canister, high altitude compensator all add to the driveability. Anyone wanting to desmog should get a copy of the factory emissions manual - it's required reading.

With the exception of the cat and to a small extent the air pump, most of the smog equipment doesn't rob power WHEN IT'S WORKING CORRECTLY. But by this time much of the equipment is failing from vacuum leaks, age, etc.

In my opinion these things should be removed:

- Cat converter (replacement with a header is best)
- EGR system
- air injection system (the place with the pump is great for a second alternator)

I don't have the 2F anymore, but I used the stock carb (I think the best bet), the stock dizzy, and yes a header. The complete desmog I did added about 15 more HP at 5,300 feet. If you live above 2,500 feet then there's no raeson to adjust the timing; if you live below that altitude you'll have to back the timing back or get the dizzy recurved (this is because the EGR influences combustion temperature). A hotter plug is also recommended.

HTH
 
15 hp? Did you dyno it? I agree with the statement that the emissions stuff doesn't draw much power when working correctly. For those of you dreaming about better gas milage by desmogging the engine - keep dreaming.
 
60wag said:
15 hp? Did you dyno it?
Click to expand...
No, just a qualitative guess. The removal of the emissions equip in conjunction with adding a header and free flow exhaust made a huge difference in performance, especially when opening the second carb barrel. Keep in mind that this is with a low mile engine and carefully tuned carb and dizzy.
 
Thanks for the replys and discussion, I'm off to find an emissions manual and then decide what to do.
I don't have to worry about the smog testing here in Iowa and I'd like to clean things up under the hood. My machine is in decent shape, but I think it's on the downward slide, so I'm going to try and keep it running and use it mostly on trails until she decides to R.I.P. :cool:
 
Would it be possible to just cap the EGR valve and Cooler where the EGR hose goes or should I replace the hose? I guess my question is, would it work if I just capped those holes woithout doing anything else?

Thanks,
 
muddymudskipper said:
Would it be possible to just cap the EGR valve and Cooler where the EGR hose goes or should I replace the hose? I guess my question is, would it work if I just capped those holes woithout doing anything else?

Thanks,
Click to expand...
To really do an elegant desmog it's best to unbolt all that stuff and throw it in a box (or sell it on eBay - you can make some serious coin). You'll need to plug the EGR input into the intake manifold and the flange on the exhaust (might as well throw that header in now). Without all that spaghetti and stuff it's a lot easier to work on the engine or see where fluids are leaking from.
 
CruiserGreg,

I do have a few more specific ?'s. I looked at the diagram you posted and that helps but i am green at this so I was wondering if you could list what parts to remove and I could start there. Thank you
 
muddymudskipper said:
CruiserGreg,

I do have a few more specific ?'s. I looked at the diagram you posted and that helps but i am green at this so I was wondering if you could list what parts to remove and I could start there. Thank you
Click to expand...

It's been a few years and I don't have the motor to look at but...

Remove:

Cat converter (this will provide the biggest improvement)
Air pump (you can pull the veins inside out and reassemble it to use as an idler pulley)
Air valve and associated hoses (be sure to plug the holes in the air cleaner)
EGR
EGR cooler
Associated vacuum switches (which ones will become obvious with the manual)


Keep:

HAC
Cold operation air valve on the air cleaner.
Vapor canister
Smog computer

I can't stress enough that you need to really understand the systems and how they work with the manual, and then compare that to the desmog diagram. It also is real important to keep the engine well tuned.
 
Does the removal of the CAT cause a smelly exhaust issue? I've removed one on a vehicle before only to later put back on because the exhaust smelled so bad.

Would a partially plugged CAT cause power to feel weak at above 2500 rpm with wider throttle opening? I know my secondary and fuel system are working correctly.

Do you need to go to a bigger diameter exhaust pipe to get good improvement with the CAT removal?
 
humper99 said:
Does the removal of the CAT cause a smelly exhaust issue? I've removed one on a vehicle before only to later put back on because the exhaust smelled so bad.

Would a partially plugged CAT cause power to feel weak at above 2500 rpm with wider throttle opening? I know my secondary and fuel system are working correctly.

Do you need to go to a bigger diameter exhaust pipe to get good improvement with the CAT removal?
Click to expand...

1. The exhaust will smell like, well, exhaust. Depending on the condition of the engine and carb it can smell a little gasey or if you're burning oil it can smell like burnt oil. You shouldn't get the "rotten egg" thing if that's what you mean.

2. A plugged cat can definitely cause a power drop-off with increasing RPMs, although other things can also.

3. You will certainly get the best improvement with a header and larger exhaust. Every little reduction in back pressure (to a point) will free up some HP.
 
we desmogged our 84 2F.

Gained very little except for a LOT of headaches and an introduction to some really great friends/lcml'ers.

Would I do it again? Yes- only because I met such great people. The motor never ran any better than it did prior to desmogging.

IMHO there are much better ways to improve your rig-- do a full tune up with new plugs, wires, dizzy, cap. Fix any/all leaks and go to synthetic oil. Replace all the vacuum lines (one at a time!) to eliminate leaks....

Just my 2 cents

Steve
 
Whoa,

Well I Guess My Cruiser Decided To Go The Desmog Route On Its Own.

I Was Taking It Slow And Putting Back Emissions Equipement. Well Tonight I Took Off The Air Filter Assembly And The Hose Coming Off That Took The Bottom Of The Relief Valve And Bottom Of The Acv With It. Totaly Rusted. Started Looking Closer, The Pipes Comming Out Of Air Pump, Rusted, Every Pipe Attached To Acv Were Toast.


Okay Cruisergreg I Need Your Help If Possible, Or Anyone Else That Will Help.

Toyota Had Done Some Work On The System For The Po, The Air Pump Check Valve Is New, And A Check Valve Coming Off The Acv, And Going Down Toward The Cat Is New Also. Maybe They Quit Once They Realized That Its All Toast.

I Would Like To Keep The Factory Carb, And Manifold, Both New Paid For By The Po.

Now What, Maybe A Good Diagram To Study.
 
I would argue for keeping the CAT, or getting a new, higher flowing CAT.

Once you are tuned, it is the single best pollution control device on your rig - and it requires no maintenance.

The 2F is a tractorilike motor, based on 1950's Chevrolet technology. So whether you gain a few horses, these things will never be rockets.

They are polluters however, just compare your emissions numbers to your Honda. Keeping the CAT can keep everyone breathing a little eaiser...

Just my $0.02
 
muddymudskipper said:
Would it be possible to just cap the EGR valve and Cooler where the EGR hose goes or should I replace the hose? I guess my question is, would it work if I just capped those holes woithout doing anything else?

Thanks,
Click to expand...

Are you talking vacuum line that needw replacing, or the semi-flexible metal hose that goes from the cooler to the EGR valve? If it's just rotted vacuum line go ahead and repalce all of the bad stuff. If it is the cooler pipe to EGR, then you can prolly find one of the them real cheap. I might have an extra one (will know tomorrow when I get my rig running again) that I would let go pretty cheap.

Rob
 
PabloCruise said:
I would argue for keeping the CAT, or getting a new, higher flowing CAT.
Click to expand...
Beaufort,

If you ARE considering keeping a cat, get a recent vintage high-flow. The OEM cat will quickly fail if the smog pump is removed.

If you decide to desmog you really need to do it completely for things to run right. This involves having the dizzy advance recurved (if you live below 2,500 feet) and using a different heat range spark plug. Of course you'll want to (carefully - I've seen people take out the AC high idle switch thinking it was smog) remove the equipment from the engine to reduce the potential for vacuum leaks.

I believe there is a desmog diagram somewhere here on Mud in the tech section.
 
Cruisergreg,

I Want To Desmog, Not Partial To Keeping Anything Except The Carb And Manifold, Besides That Parts Can Go Or Stay, I Just Need Help To Figure Which Ones Go Or Stay. I can remove the cat and go with free flow if that is better. as long as the exhaust is not to loud there will not be problems with the law.

I Got The Diagram Where Someone Crossed Parts Out On The "component Layout And Schematic Drawing". Is That The Best One To Follow?

Is There Are Standard Local Shop To Have Dizzy Recurved
 
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