I might have killed my Orion (1 Viewer)

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With the washer installed between the two bearings, the beaing sticks out of the sm420 plate just enough to bet the snap ring on the outer race shown in the picture above for the sm420. This is just enough to fit inside the hole in the transfer case. Once the bolt is tightened on the output shaft, the gear is tight and can' move back and forth at all.
 
I cleaned and cleaned the case but I know there was still some flake hiding in there. The jar next to it is #3, this is oil change #4 at about 80 miles after the mods. Looking a lot better but I changed it again and I hope to see it clear the next change.
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I found a better example of what was happening inside the case. The animated one will dance for you if you have some tunes playing. :D

I changed the fluids again....running Jenny Creek tomorrow, I will post an update when I get back.
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It may take a few oil changes to get majority of those metal fines removed Mike.


That drain plug looks a lot better than before.


Glad to hear that it is staying in gear too.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
orion #100 runing fine.
checked input gear , had 1/16 of play . Not nearly as bad as yours and no case contact , with gear slid forward it still had space between case and gear due to inner race of my adapter kit extra bearing. Will inspect after rubithon and see if she's holdin.
Shift problem fixed with 4 turns to screw in fork.
sumbitch runs quiet
fargin low with the 420 , don't think you can even get wheel speed unless your motor can tach like 10,000....in first that is...
 
ttt
 
Mike,

which shim are you referring to?
 
The brass one I added...not a stock piece. It allowed me to pull the whole shift rail assembly towards the rear of the case. With the new guts in, I don't think I need it anymore. Because it comes out of low now, the shift rail is too far toward the rear.
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treerootCO said:
Because it comes out of neutral now, the shift rail is too far toward the rear.
How does the shift ring come out of neutral?
 
but low is closest to the rear, so wouldn't moving the rail back put it as close to low as it can get before the shift fork hits the side of the case? :confused:
 
If there is ANY play in the low speed gear, it could bump the shifting collar, if it is touching the gear, knocking it out of gear...
 
Hey Poser...I decided the custom washer with the rubber goes on the outside of the case on the custom bolt that passes through the cavity. Mine is leaking out from around that bolt/nut.
 
When you reinstall/degrease the washer be sure to goober it up with sealant of your choice. I used a lot of Permatex 2B. It's the dark brown, tarry stuff. I also used it all around the idler shaft on the outside. It's holding up on mine so far

Good luck
 
treerootCO said:
Hey Poser...I decided the custom washer with the rubber goes on the outside of the case on the custom bolt that passes through the cavity. Mine is leaking out from around that bolt/nut.



That is where I have been installing mine....no leaks....


:beer:
 
Yeah tree , where did you put that washer the first time ?
I am looking into what Poser has eluded to as far as the play in gear bumping collar . We suspected that after running the tension on output shaft set by rear housing may have changed and the gears are moving on output . it still shifts back into gear o.k. so on we go...
 

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