6/'72 FJ55: stock drivetrain swap to '84 FJ60 drivetrain

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NO, in fact, the water pump you quoted is correct and it is also the LONGEST of the bunch- the fan hub bolts over the pulley to the pump hub; to keep the belt alignment, the pulley is swept back from the hub face- a deep dish 2 groove pulley...let me see if I can find it...it's the same pulley fan combo for either of the LONG clutchless pumps


you need the 54-009B fan, the 54-024C or C-CA-ask on the phone for them to make sure the C is also for without clutch..., the pulley you'll have to have them pick out cause they don't make a differentiation on their site whether or not the pulleys are the same for clutch or no clutch but it looks like the one in the diagram more or less

you won't need a spacer...
 
Water pump pulleys

I've got these two on their way:
054-009B FAN (6 BLADE)-Fits 10/73-1/79 W/O FAN CLT
054-024C-55 Water Pump - Fits 1/76-7/80 FJ55 use with oil cooler

Sounds like I got those two right. No pulley was ordered. Sounds like the 2F pulley I have here may well not work. I'll try it on Tuesday when the water pump arrives. I've only got one accessory (the alternator) at this time. Maybe the back part of the double pulley I have will line up.

Maybe the pulley I may well need is one of these two http://www.sor.com/catproducts.sor?from=054&part.number=054-013&tabpage=TAB3:
054-013D-U Water Pump Pulley-USED-Fits 1/75-8/76 FJ40-Fits 1/75-1/79 FJ55
054-013E-U Water Pump Pulley- USED-Fits 8/76-7/80 FJ40-Fits 1/79-7/80 FJ55

On Saturday, I'll see what pulley the second donor FJ60 has on it.

Here's the two I have on hand. On the left is the '84 FJ60 2F's and on the right is the 6/72 FJ55 F's. I see what you mean by swept back; the F's is swept back.

2-water-pump-pulleys.webp
 
Engine back on ground

The project is at a transition point. The engine fitment testing went well. Front, top, and bottom of engine issues have been addressed as well as possible until more parts show up. Now moving on to the back of the engine, which doesn't even have a flywheel on it at this time.

I pulled the engine just now. No question about it: after getting the engine's weight off the frame by just an inch or so, removing the two rear mounting brackets from the flywheel housing make for a much more pleasant journey for the engine out of the engine bay.

Here's the engine on the ground, with the two brackets next to it.

I also shortened as much as possible the chains between this small 2 ton engine hoist's arm and the red engine leveler. This is a tall engine and I need all the travel I can get out of the hoist.

Next, the new clutch goes on tomorrow. I'm looking forward to trying the bread loafing method of pilot bearing removal:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/66170-pilot-bearing-removal-2.html

engine-back-on-ground.webp
 
that F pulley may work for 1 accessory... I never had any luck with the grease or bread tricks, tried numerous times....I fashioned a slide hammer puller from a cut down 6" long bolt( turned the head into a hook ) slide a large socket over the threads and put a nut on it...things to check before the motor finds its home....check rear engine plugs for leakage, check rear main(recommend drop pan and rear main cap and change rear main seal) check oil galley plug on passenger side of head- make sure it's a threaded plug; if not, remove old poured in plug drill tap and use a threaded plug with lots of red locktite. I changed the input shaft seal and front gaskets on the last trans I installed; it's way easy and cheap to do it before the trans marries the motor...making sure there are no leaks now will bring you joy down the road. paint the timing marks on the flywheel white or neon yellow to make them easier to see when shooting it with the timing gun. If you haven't already done so, adjust the valves.
 
Transmission and transfer case juxtaposed

Top is '84 FJ60's transmission and transfer case, each four speed. Bottom is 6/72 FJ55 with the 3 speed tranny and non-split case T/C.

Hard to tell but I am starting to doubt I will get lucky on having a drivelines combo which does not require having them re-lengthened. I have the FJ55's front and rear. I have the full ?/84's front and just the short half of the rear. I have full front and rear from the 9/83 FJ60 donor. I have yet to do the research on that topic.

For the rear, the front half of the ?/84 FJ60's fit to the back half of the FJ55. I was hoping that maybe I could just combine those and have rear wheel drive going for test drive purposes (and to haul the FJ60's rear axle back to my little shop here but if not there is a tough little '78 Toyota pickup with a 20R available for that task).

In the end, it seems the FJ60 drivelines are stronger so I'll go with those. I would be pleasantly surprised if those just fit up with getting them lengthened/shortened.

tranny-and-tc-comparison.webp
 
D shafts...use the tcase end of the slip yoke from the 60 shaft and the diff side shaft and yoke from the 55 for the rear...it might work just fine. my rig has an extra inch of rear wheel base, and the early sixty shaft works fine. take a tape to each shaft from center of u joint eye to end of slip yoke collar(the diff yoke and shaft end...)...I am using the 55 front shaft, and it seems to me that based upon where my stuff sits, there is about an inch of difference between the 55 case flange locations, and the 60 case flange locations; favoring the rear(more space from front flange to front diff flange, less in the rear...clear as mud, eh?) you may have to have the rear shortened...maybe not, just don't cut it too close, you don't want the rear axle to drop out, swing in and stab the arse of your tcase now would ya? the only way to know for sure is by installing one or measuring and having one made...as my build went, the stock sixty shaft has about 1 1/8" till full compression, and I'm OK with that>it just looks right. I didn't think to measure, but you could measure from the trans to Bhousing mounting surface, to the rear Tcase flange face, and compare the 2 combos and post up here for poserity...remember, the 3 speed case flange face is the face of the parking brake drum...
 
threadchaser said:
I haven't measured precisely but it looks like the FJ60 rear driveshaft may be about 2" shorter than the FJ55's. I might just get away without modifying the driveshaft.
Click to expand...

I hope you get lucky!

I need to get one of those markers, what is it again?
 
you should be able to use that shaft, but you'll need to do the axle swap in order to use it...the bolt pattern on the diff flanges is different...did you measure the cases length yet?
 
10/83 FJ60 Igniter

[EDIT: I was confused in this message. See message #80 for the clear up: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=8809659&postcount=80]


Here is the igniter that I pulled yesterday from a 10/83 FJ60 with a stock 2F (which has a stock carb on it, score but that will just be put in a box for another day).

I have begun researching the wiring. Here is that ignitor just sitting on top of the 2F motor. In this picture there are 4 green connectors. It seems the igniter is grounded through the clamp around the coil. Igniter gets fed +12V from connector labeled B. Connector A is an output that provides tachometer data to the rest of the vehicle. That will not be used, for now.

So, the open issue is the two green connecter in the bottom of the picture. The round one comes from the ?/84 2F distributor and the square one comes from the 10/83 igniter. These two are supposed to connect to each other.

I could just pull the distributor that matches this ignitor and keep moving but I am curious why Toyota changed the plug and whether if an adaptor were made to get the dizzy and igniter to play together does it matter how it is wired up or are the two options equally good. Note that both connectors are keyed such that there is only one way they could go together so I am guessing that there is only one correct way to do this but the kaizen of the square-to-round change is not yet clear to me.

igniter.webp
 
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I wanna say there is a sub harness with a rec plug at one end and a roundy on the other...double check the dizz that that ignitor came from...
 
Paint prep

Will check the donor's igniter-to-distributor wiring when I visit the donor in a day or so. I'll grab its distributor as well just to have more options.

I spent the day getting a paint station set up. Lots of little stuff to take care of on the rust front. I'm also thinking a can of Eastwood's 2K epoxy primer in a rattle can would be perfect for the axles. I don't have a compressor nor paint gun here.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-s-2k-aero-spray-epoxy-primer-gray.html
 
Engine stand mount bolt dimensions

An engine stand can be attached to the rear of the 2F using some of the 6 bolt holes that are used to attach the flywheel housing to the motor. The bolt holes are tapped for 12mm x 1.75 bolts. The holes are about 22mm deep.

In this picture are 4 bolts in the 6 bolt holes. 1 is stock and the other 3 are 70mm long and will be used to attach the engine stand. An orange part of the engine stand is attached in the picture. Multiple people have warned that small, weak engine stands can be tippy with a 2F mounted. Sadly I only have a crappy 1000 lbs engine stand available.

Pretty basic info, the take away being dimensions of the bolt holes.

engine-stand-mount-points.webp
 
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