UWDave's 1fz Replacement

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If it didn't take me an hour to attach a stupid transmission cooler bracket, I might have got more done tonight.

Today's completed list:
- throttle cables attached
- engine ground and starter wires attached
- fan on
- radiator & trans cooler in
- Radiator support & grill installed

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Washington's latest super fund cleanup site... Dave's driveway
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Left before turn-over:
- Buy 10x1.25 stud for exhaust and connect rear header to exhaust
- Intake
- fluids
- install battery (charging now)
 
Last edited:
Glad to see you are pretty much done. You make it look easy. Can't wait to do mine!
 
Watch me make it look hard, ha ha, I did it on a slant, pulled the whole drive train out, and it was about 20 degrees outside and we just had a blizzard here in PA.
enjoy ;)


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*hi-jack*

95ToyCruiser: I was looking at the pics thinking "Wow, that would probably be exactly the way it would look if I was to do it..." Then I saw the Corrado (aka: MkII parts car) in the garage and then I knew why! LOL So, how many zip-ties did you use? :flipoff2:

*/hi-jack*
 
Last odds and ends

So very ready to rock... but one last question.

Where does this lug in my hand mount?
IMG_1023.jpg

It looks like it might attach to the bolt at aft end of the lower IM (below brake line coil in photo) The wire reaches, but it doesn't really seem right. The wire comes down from the main engine harness. The picture was taken from the drivers side wheel well.

Startup checklist:
1) Oil filled (7 quarts)
2) PS added (only took 1/2 quart, I assume will take more after turn-over)
3) Coolant added (~13qts in rad & overflow)
4) Turn over motor w/ coil wire removed for 30s
5) Start
 
BUMP

I still need some help with this last wire.
 
I think you're right about it attaching to that bolt. It is a ground wire for a number of things so make sure the connection is clean and tight.

Before starting it I'd recommend putting the front end on stands and bleeding the power steering system to get it full of fluid and to remove any bubbles. You can bleed the PS system by turning the steering wheel lock-to-lock and keeping the reservoir topped up.
 
It's hard to tell but it looks like a big fat main lead. I'd guess battery to starter? Where is the other end attached? Battery to ground?
 
Great. A split opinion.

The wire comes from the ECU, part of the main bundle that comes across the firewall and down through the IM. It is a very big fat terminal. It reaches the top of the starter, but I already have the battery lead on the starter and I don't recall having 2 wires on the starter lug.

I'm leaning towards it being a ground... but would really like a confirmation. If anybody has time, you should be able to just reach your hand to this location and check your engine.

Thanks for the advice on the PS, I'll do that.
 
The OEM starter lead has two prongs (like vampire fangs) that hold the terminal in position as you tighten the nut. It is also a solid lug (not made of multiple pieces). The negative lead from the battery to engine block has a 90* bend it so it comes perpendicularly off the block. The lug in the picture doesn't look like any of those IMO.

I bet you a dollar the one in your photo is the ground for the ECU that attaches to the intake.
 
96r50 said:
The OEM starter lead has two prongs (like vampire fangs) that hold the terminal in position as you tighten the nut. It is also a solid lug (not made of multiple pieces). The negative lead from the battery to engine block has a 90* bend it so it comes perpendicularly off the block. The lug in the picture doesn't look like any of those IMO.

I bet you a dollar the one in your photo is the ground for the ECU that attaches to the intake.
Click to expand...

Battery (-) to block does have 90 and is already connected.

Battery (+) to starter has prongs and cover and is already connected.

Unless somebody scream before 3pm PST, that bad boy is getting grounded.
 
UWdave said:
Battery (-) to block does have 90 and is already connected.

Battery (+) to starter has prongs and cover and is already connected.

Unless somebody scream before 3pm PST, that bad boy is getting grounded.
Click to expand...


If you can wait, I will look at my truck later today. Happy to send my cell # in a PM if that would help you. I should be home after 5 PDT.

Is there a pic in the FSM?
 
I would strongly recommend you wait for comfirmation. If it's connected to the ECU, and you connect it to the wrong terminal, you may cause some very expensive damage.

Be patient.

;)
 
Depending on where you are in Seattle, I have some errands to run after work and could swing by with my 97 LX 450. You could compare whatever you wanted.

Oh, and I hope you were able to watch UW take on Marquette last night. Go Dawgs!
 
Dave

Just did a check on mine and then searched for a picture. I found one in your thread. I think the wire in the red circle is the one you want. Looks like your new motor had the main harness attached when you got it.
Ground.webp
 
Dave,

Your picture with your hand and the wire in it - did you somehow "reverse" the image? I cannot make sense of it even if it's a shot from under the engine. I guess I'll go look at mine....back in a second...
 
Yes, that looks correct - goes to that bolt in the picture. If the other end of that thick wire joins the wire harness within an inch or two of the rear tip of the fuel filter, then that's another indicator. On mine, the end that bolts (in your hand) looks like a 3-layer metal laminate, so another indicator if that's what you have.

DougM
 
TomH said:
Dave

Just did a check on mine and then searched for a picture. I found one in your thread. I think the wire in the red circle is the one you want. Looks like your new motor had the main harness attached when you got it.
Click to expand...

Good call. I didn't even think to look at those pics. I read this right about the time I found it in the FSM.

After mounting the ground I turned the engine over for a good 30 seconds. I didn't see any oil pressure and got worried. Oops #1, for got the little wire that goes from the oil pressure sender to the harness over by the washer fluid. I thought that open connector was for the AC. Turned it over again and got oil pressure. I connected the coil and the engine started up with just a few turns. It was really rough and I had a check engine light. Oops #2, forgot to plug in the O2 sensor. I stuffed the wire down between the wheel well and the firewall but forgot to connect it. Things ran much better but still rough. No more CEL. Revving the engine smooths things out quite a bit. Falling from revs the motor feels like it wants to die. No knocking or pinking sounds, just a little rough.

So, that was all for today. Tomorrow I'll gather more data and come up with a plan of attach.

What is going through my mind:
- Possible water in fuel lines/injectors? Should clear up fast on its own
- Timing; I followed the FSM as best I could, but may need tweak
- Injector cleaner; should throw some in the gas tank just for fun
- Spark plugs; probably should have just replaced them
- Vacuum leak; is starter spray still the preferred method of detection?
 
Congrats on getting it done!

Sounds like you were anxious to get it done & over with, so possibly some simple problems.

Double check the spark plug wires and verify that they're connected to the correct spark plugs/distributor cap connection.

Double check all timing marks. Set crankshaft to TDC. Pull spark plug #1, peer down the hole w/ a flashlight to make sure the piston is all the way up. Check distributor and verify it's at ~10-11 o'clock position.

If those check out, isolate which cylinder is running rough. One at a time test each cylinder by unplugging the spark plug cables. Ground the live end of the cable/connection when doing this. On a different car a simpler way would be to unplug each fuel injector connection.

To test for vacuum leak, starter spray or simply a spray bottle of water will work. Idle will drop when you're squirting the correct area. (fluid briefly fills the cracks/holes)

If you still feel it's a timing issue. Find an easy way to determine if the camshaft is aligned properly. I suppose removing the valve cover is the best bet. Doing a leakdown or compression test will tell you as well.
 
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