Motor spewing oil from "here"... What is it and WHY!!! Arrgh!!!!
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Any reason why, other than 
that I should not use a 8x1.25 bolt with hex head instead of a set screw? I could not find one longer than the plug.
Ahh, nevermind, I found a plug that was about 5/8" long, or whatever that measures out to in metric.
This operation was easier than I thought. I did not have to remove any heater line hoses. Just some vacumed hoses and this one hose fitting that connects to the block.
No drilling, just one tap and a 1/4" to 1/2 wrench attachment.
Going slow is key and cleaning your work quite a bit. If you get too much buildup from shards on the tap, it will tend to freeze or twist inside the wrench fitting.
I tapped in about 5/8" + and installed the setscrew, which is inset about 1/16".
CLEAN often and do use a magnetic tip screwdriver to pick up shards. I went overboard and spent about 1/2 hr, doing that, running the engine, let the oil spill out and put that screwdriver in there.
Also after inserting a longer bolt, i did the same thing. I figured if I was investing the time, I may as well be redundant with my procedure.
I am so frikking appreciative of all the great info here..
Next...
Knuckles and an OME lift!
Oh, and my ball joints too...
that I should not use a 8x1.25 bolt with hex head instead of a set screw? I could not find one longer than the plug.Ahh, nevermind, I found a plug that was about 5/8" long, or whatever that measures out to in metric.
This operation was easier than I thought. I did not have to remove any heater line hoses. Just some vacumed hoses and this one hose fitting that connects to the block.
No drilling, just one tap and a 1/4" to 1/2 wrench attachment.
Going slow is key and cleaning your work quite a bit. If you get too much buildup from shards on the tap, it will tend to freeze or twist inside the wrench fitting.
I tapped in about 5/8" + and installed the setscrew, which is inset about 1/16".
CLEAN often and do use a magnetic tip screwdriver to pick up shards. I went overboard and spent about 1/2 hr, doing that, running the engine, let the oil spill out and put that screwdriver in there.
Also after inserting a longer bolt, i did the same thing. I figured if I was investing the time, I may as well be redundant with my procedure.
I am so frikking appreciative of all the great info here..
Next...
Knuckles and an OME lift!
Oh, and my ball joints too...
Last edited:
awesome job
A big round of applause
.
John
A big round of applause
.John
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
It is the entry point of the drill to open up the boss and create the oil passage from the head bolt bore to the rocker arm pedestal to oil the rockers.
Mark...
NLXTACY
Wits' End
OK so question...
What would be a trail fix for this? I don't imagine everyone keeps tap-n-dies in their regular tool kit.
What would be a trail fix for this? I don't imagine everyone keeps tap-n-dies in their regular tool kit.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
As it happens, have trail fixed this before.
Press in style grease zirk which happened to be in the glove gox. Packed epoxy into the zirk and the hole and tapped it in. Held forever. Or until I eventually pulled that engine.
Brass rod of appropriate diameter (slightly larger than the hole) filed to a taper to fit and tapped in place would work too.
JB weld by itself *might* hold for a bit to get you home. Good quality silicon ("the right stuff" for example) would likely hold to get you home. This is not a full pressure oil bore.
Silicon or epoxy with a self tapping screw turned into the hole behind it would work well.
Mark...
Press in style grease zirk which happened to be in the glove gox. Packed epoxy into the zirk and the hole and tapped it in. Held forever. Or until I eventually pulled that engine.
Brass rod of appropriate diameter (slightly larger than the hole) filed to a taper to fit and tapped in place would work too.
JB weld by itself *might* hold for a bit to get you home. Good quality silicon ("the right stuff" for example) would likely hold to get you home. This is not a full pressure oil bore.
Silicon or epoxy with a self tapping screw turned into the hole behind it would work well.
Mark...
Yeah same thing happened to me.
Apparently it blew out somewhere near my house as I was on the way to a friends, but I decided to get some gas before. I get to the gas station, realize a trail of oil leading right to my car. I think "huh that's strange" get under the car and see a puddle of oil forming. Luckily I was only half mile from my house and was able to get it back home just before it went bone dry.
Apparently it blew out somewhere near my house as I was on the way to a friends, but I decided to get some gas before. I get to the gas station, realize a trail of oil leading right to my car. I think "huh that's strange" get under the car and see a puddle of oil forming. Luckily I was only half mile from my house and was able to get it back home just before it went bone dry.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
HOLY Shiiiiiiiiiiitttttttt!
This happened to me today, what are the chances.
I had just put new TREs on the 62 and went for a test ride around the block. Got home parked in the drive. Noticed major oil drippage immediately. Dip stick was dry, but showed full after adding 3 quarts. I dodged a major bullet here.
Total mess in the engine compartment. Wife cranked it over while I watched-high pressure oil hemorrhage right at the galley plug. Diagnosis confirmed.
After 10 minutes in panic mode, I went to the local hardware. Here are the things you need to fix this:
17/64 cobalt drill bit
8mm x 1.25 tap (I got a USA Irwin, use a high quality one)
8mm x 1.25 plug
Red locktight
And most important...a right angle drill. Holy crap those are expensive. I got a Makita in the perfect compact size for $160.00. This particular drill is made to do this repair. It is so perfect in that it fits in the awkward space, and it has a device to keep it from spinning too fast.
Anyway...drill the galley out to 17/64 then carefully tap with the 8x1.25 tap. This part was very difficult for me due to the tight space. I greased the flutes of the bit and the voids of the tap to capture the metal bits. Then screw in the plug coated liberally in LocTite.
Seriously what are the chances of this happening today? The truck has 125k and I just got back from driving it to LA and back (roughly 1000 miles).
Wow Drew,
Lucky that it didn't blow out on the drive to LA...
NLXTACY,
I carry around some "pig puddy" epoxy mix. That might be a pretty good trail fix, but if you haven't already tapped it and put in a set screw, I would I highly recommend it.
Lucky that it didn't blow out on the drive to LA...
NLXTACY,
I carry around some "pig puddy" epoxy mix. That might be a pretty good trail fix, but if you haven't already tapped it and put in a set screw, I would I highly recommend it.
Wow, must be the H1N1 Land Cruiser Galley Plug Virus... It's spreading...
Two lucky vaccinations !
Two lucky vaccinations !
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Maybe it was something you said....?
No kidding. The whole time I'm thinking WTF???
I'll fire it up tomorrow after the locktite sets. I hope it's all OK.
What a time-bomb.
I'm going to do this repair on my 60 next week since in the end it wasn't that hard, and I now have the mondo expensive 90 degree drill.
No kidding. The whole time I'm thinking WTF???
I'll fire it up tomorrow after the locktite sets. I hope it's all OK.
What a time-bomb.
I'm going to do this repair on my 60 next week since in the end it wasn't that hard, and I now have the mondo expensive 90 degree drill.
I bet you can rent that drill out to all that have read the threads on this subject....maybe get some $ back.
That really is crazy on the timing on your galley plug!
I bet you can rent that drill out to all that have read the threads on this subject....maybe get some $ back.
That really is crazy on the timing on your galley plug!
Seriously, it ought to be passed from one Mudder to the next.
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Update:
Went out this AM and started it up. the repair seems to be holding and no oil is weeping out the galley hole. Since the plug I used was pretty short (about 1/4 inch) and the threads are about 2 plugs deep, I'm going to go get another one today and install a second one behind the first.
I really feel lucky here. I followed my oil trail backwards, and in about 1/4 mile of residential traffic, it pumped out 3 quarts. If I'd been on the freeway at speed, the motor would have been dead before I even knew there was a problem.
Anyway, for anyone else reading this-this problem is real and can hit you at any time. It is likely you will kill your motor before you even have a hint there is a problem. Also, the usual risk factors for this happening, like previous head work/hot tanking do not apply here. This is a low mileage well maintained motor with only 125k miles. So go fix this problem now, and don't put it off.
Went out this AM and started it up. the repair seems to be holding and no oil is weeping out the galley hole. Since the plug I used was pretty short (about 1/4 inch) and the threads are about 2 plugs deep, I'm going to go get another one today and install a second one behind the first.
I really feel lucky here. I followed my oil trail backwards, and in about 1/4 mile of residential traffic, it pumped out 3 quarts. If I'd been on the freeway at speed, the motor would have been dead before I even knew there was a problem.
Anyway, for anyone else reading this-this problem is real and can hit you at any time. It is likely you will kill your motor before you even have a hint there is a problem. Also, the usual risk factors for this happening, like previous head work/hot tanking do not apply here. This is a low mileage well maintained motor with only 125k miles. So go fix this problem now, and don't put it off.
I did that about 4-5 years ago. Ok so far, but I don't trust it. Anyone else care to venture an opinion on this? It seems like it'd be a stronger hold than trying it after the thing has already blown out.
I've followed threads like this over the years and one cause that's been put forth is that repeated heating and cooling cycles may be a factor in causing the plugs to work loose. Perhaps this is what happened with Cruiserdrew's engine.
I know of one 2F with mileage > 200k that lost the plug with the result that the FJ60 is getting a good rebuild.
I know of one 2F with mileage > 200k that lost the plug with the result that the FJ60 is getting a good rebuild.
I just had a 2F head rebuilt that had 90K original miles on it... Galley plug was weeping.
is there a time period that we should just replace these to prevent a blowout on trail or highway?
