If you haven't done it, don't put it off, it is not worth your engine. Once you do it correctly like instructed in this thread you will not have to worry about it again.
I had this slightly weeping on my 2f...now I have a fresh 3fe in her & this fix was done during swap...
An ounce of prevention is worth 800 pounds of LandCruiser engine.
Thanks to this forum, some years ago I plugged mine (propholacticly?). I have told as many other 60 owners as I meet about it. This has saved a few engines.
Why is it there? Drill point for lubircation? Nah. Toyota put that there so 60 owners will develop faith and humility. We all hang by a thread like Damocles and the hanging sword.
If you haven't done it, don't put it off, it is not worth your engine. Once you do it correctly like instructed in this thread you will not have to worry about it again.
I reviewed this issue with my maintenance folks resulting in a debate over what is the ideal fix. Tapered bolts was considered better as it has more "sealing" properties. Even so, the feedback was that even a tapered bolt would eventually weep. JB weld over the existing plug was suggested. How long have you "fixed" folks had the tap and bolt solution (miles/years)?
I reviewed this issue with my maintenance folks resulting in a debate over what is the ideal fix. Tapered bolts was considered better as it has more "sealing" properties. Even so, the feedback was that even a tapered bolt would eventually weep. JB weld over the existing plug was suggested. How long have you "fixed" folks had the tap and bolt solution (miles/years)?
Obviously, pipe thread has better sealing ability than bolt thread. I don't, however, believe that even a pipe thread plug will eventually start to leak. Think about it: the reason pipe thread is tapered is to form a tight seal for high-pressure liquid and gas applications. I've got water pipes in my house that are 80 years old with joints still holding strong under substantially more pressure than your oil galley plug. Even a bolt thread plug with a strong thread sealant should be enough hold back the low pressure of the oil at that point in the circuit.
I reviewed this issue with my maintenance folks resulting in a debate over what is the ideal fix. Tapered bolts was considered better as it has more "sealing" properties. Even so, the feedback was that even a tapered bolt would eventually weep. JB weld over the existing plug was suggested. How long have you "fixed" folks had the tap and bolt solution (miles/years)?
I will look at see how mine was done by the guy that rebuilt my engine. He is a longtime cruiser specialist and has rebuild a lot of cruiser engines. Also a weep it not a big issue compared to a sudden pop and gushing oil.
Mine is holding just peachy and I have no concerns about longevity. I did not have to spend the money on a drill. I picked up all of my parts at Orchard Supply Hardware. Off the shelf and not any higher quality than that "Vermont/American" brand tools. Just have to clean your work. Frankly, I prefer this method over drills due to the "feel" nature of those hand tools/tules..
Just do it. It is easier than you think. Just take time w/ the clean out. 5/16" x 24#. Go slowly and smoothly. You will feel 100% better about you rig and your skillz.
OP here. Since I fixed it, I have had absolutely zero issues or concerns. I strongly suggest using a hand tap and high quality American taps at that. I was going to use my right angle drill, I just did not want to snap anything, so I took it easy.
Giterdone!!