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Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter slcfj62
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- Thread starter
- #22
You did still have to run extra wires into the doors to provide power, correct?
- Thread starter
- #25
Nope. The power is already there. If the diodes work, there isn't any extra wiring to be done except for the mod to the switch. If the diodes don't work, you will have to do a ground wire, but that is all. In fact, once you install the mod on one switch, you can try it on the other doors one at a time to see if it helps you. So while I wait for the diodes, I'm going to get started on the writeup for the power door locks. I'll post that this morning.
Lucky for you I'm installing my Poly axles today, and the rig is resting...cant wait to see what my next mod will be!
- Thread starter
- #27
Power Door Locks Permanent Fix
To begin with, if you do this modification, you are responsible for the outcome. What I did worked for me. It should work for you. But if not, by attempting this mod, you are responsible for the outcome, and you agree to hold me not guilty of any wrong doing. If you have zero automotive electrical skills, I recommend you get with a buddy that does have some skills and can help, or take this to a shop you trust to make the mod.
NOTE: You should check the condition of your switches while you have the drivers door master panel out. Polish them up one last time. Once you complete the mods for the power locks and the windows, the switches should stay nice and clean without any pitting or corrosion.
That said, here are some important relay terms, and the interpretation of the Toyota wiring color code.
Single pole double throw (SPDT) relay: This is the type of relay we are using for this mod. It has a 30 Amp rating. I purchased all my relays from here (you will need two for the door locks and six for the windows):
:
[COLOR=#green]http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=319http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=319[/COLOR]
It
It came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
To begin with, if you do this modification, you are responsible for the outcome. What I did worked for me. It should work for you. But if not, by attempting this mod, you are responsible for the outcome, and you agree to hold me not guilty of any wrong doing. If you have zero automotive electrical skills, I recommend you get with a buddy that does have some skills and can help, or take this to a shop you trust to make the mod.
NOTE: You should check the condition of your switches while you have the drivers door master panel out. Polish them up one last time. Once you complete the mods for the power locks and the windows, the switches should stay nice and clean without any pitting or corrosion.
That said, here are some important relay terms, and the interpretation of the Toyota wiring color code.
Single pole double throw (SPDT) relay: This is the type of relay we are using for this mod. It has a 30 Amp rating. I purchased all my relays from here (you will need two for the door locks and six for the windows):
:
[COLOR=#green]http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=319http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=319[/COLOR]
It
It came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
came with a socket and wiring harness and looks like this:
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- Thread starter
- #28
Power Door Locks Permanent Fix Part 2
It has five connections. Two are for the coil. The connections for the coil are labeled 85 and 86 and are the Brown and Blue wires respectively. The coil connections are not polarity sensitive. In other words, it doesn’t matter how you hook it up to the power supply. There is a common connection labeled 30 and is the Yellow wire. A Normally Closed (NC) contact labeled as 87a and is the Black wire, and a Normally Open (NO) contact labeled 87 which is the Red wire. If you are using a different relay, or if you are using a different harness, you will need to map your wire colors to mine. When voltage is applied to the coil, the relay changes state. This means the NC contact opens and the NO contact closes.
Here is the schematic for the relay:
It has five connections. Two are for the coil. The connections for the coil are labeled 85 and 86 and are the Brown and Blue wires respectively. The coil connections are not polarity sensitive. In other words, it doesn’t matter how you hook it up to the power supply. There is a common connection labeled 30 and is the Yellow wire. A Normally Closed (NC) contact labeled as 87a and is the Black wire, and a Normally Open (NO) contact labeled 87 which is the Red wire. If you are using a different relay, or if you are using a different harness, you will need to map your wire colors to mine. When voltage is applied to the coil, the relay changes state. This means the NC contact opens and the NO contact closes.
Here is the schematic for the relay:
- Thread starter
- #29
Power Door Locks Permanent Fix Part 3
My vehicle is a 1988 fj62 manufacture November 1987. I don’t know how consistent Toyota was with their wiring looms, so you will need to verify that your wires are the same colors as mine by using the Factory Service Manual (FSM). If you look at the schematic at the back of the FSM for the door locks (schematic #3 in my book) you will see the color code letters by the connections. Here is how I interpreted mine:
W—White
R—Red
B—Black
L—Blue
G—Green
When there are two colors listed, there is a colored stripe on the wire. Here is a picture from my FSM including the modification drawn in. The lock relay is on the left, unlock on the right.
My vehicle is a 1988 fj62 manufacture November 1987. I don’t know how consistent Toyota was with their wiring looms, so you will need to verify that your wires are the same colors as mine by using the Factory Service Manual (FSM). If you look at the schematic at the back of the FSM for the door locks (schematic #3 in my book) you will see the color code letters by the connections. Here is how I interpreted mine:
W—White
R—Red
B—Black
L—Blue
G—Green
When there are two colors listed, there is a colored stripe on the wire. Here is a picture from my FSM including the modification drawn in. The lock relay is on the left, unlock on the right.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Power Door Locks Permanent Fix Part 4
Now, here is the tricky part. Those colors are only valid from where the switch plugs into the wiring loom and on into the vehicle. The wires from the connector to the switches are different colors. So, I made a map to correlate the vehicle side wires to the switch side wires.
Now, here is the tricky part. Those colors are only valid from where the switch plugs into the wiring loom and on into the vehicle. The wires from the connector to the switches are different colors. So, I made a map to correlate the vehicle side wires to the switch side wires.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Power Door Locks Permanent Fix Part 4
As you can see, the vehicle side Red wire maps to a White wire with a Blue stripe. The Blue and White wire maps to a Black wire. The Blue and Red wire maps to a Black wire with a Yellow stripe, and the White wire with the Black stripe maps to the same color wire. IMPORTANT: The White wire with the Black stripe is nearly the same as the White wire with the Blue stripe in dim light. So use good lighting, and make sure you can tell the difference.
Here is what the finished product looks like, and a close up of the part where all the action is going to happen. I soldered all my connections, but you will probably want to use crimp on butt connecters and taps.
For those that have never been into this part of their Cruiser before, the small connector--white in my case--is for the power door locks. It has four wires coming out of it. This is the one we will be working with. The big connector--blue for me--is for the power windows. We aren't going to touch any of the power window wires. If you also do the power window mod, all that work will be done on the other three doors, not the drivers door. It already has relays for the window.
As you can see, the vehicle side Red wire maps to a White wire with a Blue stripe. The Blue and White wire maps to a Black wire. The Blue and Red wire maps to a Black wire with a Yellow stripe, and the White wire with the Black stripe maps to the same color wire. IMPORTANT: The White wire with the Black stripe is nearly the same as the White wire with the Blue stripe in dim light. So use good lighting, and make sure you can tell the difference.
Here is what the finished product looks like, and a close up of the part where all the action is going to happen. I soldered all my connections, but you will probably want to use crimp on butt connecters and taps.
For those that have never been into this part of their Cruiser before, the small connector--white in my case--is for the power door locks. It has four wires coming out of it. This is the one we will be working with. The big connector--blue for me--is for the power windows. We aren't going to touch any of the power window wires. If you also do the power window mod, all that work will be done on the other three doors, not the drivers door. It already has relays for the window.
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- Thread starter
- #32
Power Door Locks Permanent Fix Part 4
You are going to cut two wires, the Black wire and the Black wire with the Yellow stripe (these wires map to the wiring loom Blue-White (L-W) and the Blue-Red (L-R), but you are going to cut the Black wire and the Black/Yellow wire). You can refer to the schematic for this. You are cutting the two wires where the X’s are right below the schematic switch. Cut these two wires (the Black one and the Black-Yellow stripe one) mid way between the connector and the switch. You will notice that mine is cut off real close to the connector. This is the fault of a Previous Owner (PO) who made their own modification which didn’t work. I threw away a big wiring mess, but I digress.
Now, take your two relay wiring harnesses and label one LOCK and the other UNLOCK. Using the method of your choice (solder or crimp connectors) make the following connections:
That’s it! Plug your relays into the sockets and install the mess back in your Cruiser. At least in my case, the door locks now sound like they are going to jump right out of the door! You will want to push the relays through a convenient hole in the door, and anchor them with tie wraps or something so they don’t rattle and they stay up out of any water that may get in the bottom of the door.
Next write-up will be for the power windows as soon as I get the diodes and the time to test them.
Out.
UPDATE: Awhile after I fixed my power door locks, I noticed that the rear hatch lock/unlock wasn't working anymore. It would not lock or unlock. So I pulled the solenoid out and bench tested it with a motorcycle battery I use for that purpose. The solenoid would not actuate. I bought a used one from Cruiserparts.net and installed it. Now the rear hatch would unlock but not lock. I tracked it down to a bad relay and replaced it with one of the same relays used in this mod. I just posted this fix on another thread, but I thought I would add it here for future reference:
The lift gate lock/unlock solenoid is controlled by two relays right next to your rear washer bag. One of the relays is for lock, the other is for unlock. So, take that side cover off and you will see them. They are the little tin cans mounted on the upright. In my case, the bottom one was mounted upside down and over time moisture had leaked into it and rusted, etc until it didn't work.
So you can either get a used or new OEM replacement, or replace it with a new relay like I did. If you decide to replace it, here is how I connected the new relay. I cut off the connector and butt spliced the following wires together (NOTE: read the entire procedure before you cut any wires!):
Now here is the tricky part, there are two vehicle side Blue wires with a Red stripe.
If your bad relay is the other one (or if you want to replace them both), the only difference is there are two blue wires with a white stripe. The other wires are connected the same. The Blue/White wire that goes to the solenoid connects to the yellow relay wire. I would guess that it is also the corner wire, but I haven't verified that.
You are going to cut two wires, the Black wire and the Black wire with the Yellow stripe (these wires map to the wiring loom Blue-White (L-W) and the Blue-Red (L-R), but you are going to cut the Black wire and the Black/Yellow wire). You can refer to the schematic for this. You are cutting the two wires where the X’s are right below the schematic switch. Cut these two wires (the Black one and the Black-Yellow stripe one) mid way between the connector and the switch. You will notice that mine is cut off real close to the connector. This is the fault of a Previous Owner (PO) who made their own modification which didn’t work. I threw away a big wiring mess, but I digress.
Now, take your two relay wiring harnesses and label one LOCK and the other UNLOCK. Using the method of your choice (solder or crimp connectors) make the following connections:
- Connect the LOCK Yellow wire to the Black wire coming from the connector, and the UNLOCK Yellow wire to the Black wire with the Yellow stripe coming from the connector.
- Connect the LOCK Brown wire to the Black wire coming from the switch, and the UNLOCK Brown wire to the Black-Yellow wire coming from the switch.
- Both the UNLOCK and the LOCK Red wires tap into the White wire with the Blue stripe. You can remove some of the insulation and solder these wires, or use trailer style crimp on connections which is what I would recommend. I think the Blue ones are the correct size. (I soldered these because it was in the evening and I was too impatient to wait until the stores opened to go get some connectors.)
- Now the Blue and the Black wires from both the LOCK and UNLOCK relays tap into the White wire with the Black stripe.
That’s it! Plug your relays into the sockets and install the mess back in your Cruiser. At least in my case, the door locks now sound like they are going to jump right out of the door! You will want to push the relays through a convenient hole in the door, and anchor them with tie wraps or something so they don’t rattle and they stay up out of any water that may get in the bottom of the door.
Next write-up will be for the power windows as soon as I get the diodes and the time to test them.
Out.
UPDATE: Awhile after I fixed my power door locks, I noticed that the rear hatch lock/unlock wasn't working anymore. It would not lock or unlock. So I pulled the solenoid out and bench tested it with a motorcycle battery I use for that purpose. The solenoid would not actuate. I bought a used one from Cruiserparts.net and installed it. Now the rear hatch would unlock but not lock. I tracked it down to a bad relay and replaced it with one of the same relays used in this mod. I just posted this fix on another thread, but I thought I would add it here for future reference:
The lift gate lock/unlock solenoid is controlled by two relays right next to your rear washer bag. One of the relays is for lock, the other is for unlock. So, take that side cover off and you will see them. They are the little tin cans mounted on the upright. In my case, the bottom one was mounted upside down and over time moisture had leaked into it and rusted, etc until it didn't work.
So you can either get a used or new OEM replacement, or replace it with a new relay like I did. If you decide to replace it, here is how I connected the new relay. I cut off the connector and butt spliced the following wires together (NOTE: read the entire procedure before you cut any wires!):
Brown and Black wires from relay to vehicle White wire with Black stripe
Red wire from relay to vehicle Green wire with Blue stripe
Now here is the tricky part, there are two vehicle side Blue wires with a Red stripe.
- Yellow wire from relay goes to the vehicle Blue wire with the Red stripe that goes to the solenoid. You can tell which Blue/Red wire this is because it is the one in the corner of the connector before you cut the connector off, SO make sure you note which Blue/Red wire is in the corner before you cut them off!
Blue wire from the relay goes to the other vehicle Blue wire with the Red stripe (goes up to the door lock switch. Or if you have done the door lock mod, it eventually goes to the lock relay.)
If your bad relay is the other one (or if you want to replace them both), the only difference is there are two blue wires with a white stripe. The other wires are connected the same. The Blue/White wire that goes to the solenoid connects to the yellow relay wire. I would guess that it is also the corner wire, but I haven't verified that.
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Relays are on order...seriously, the windows are one of the great pet peeves I have with this rig. Was wondering whether anyone would ever find a solution.
- Thread starter
- #34
Well the relays made a big difference for me. Hopefully they will for you too. I think the other piece of the puzzle is the window channels in the doors. The relays will help power through the sticky parts, but if those haven't also been replaced....20+ years out in the sun and a million times up and down takes it's toll on the rubber.
Agreed. Replaced mine about a year ago. Made some difference, but the rears especially are still ridicuous (and embarassing).
Interesting. I didn't realize this. My driver's door window is also sluggish as hell, and the track doesn't appear to be in bad shape. When it's well below freezing outside, my driver's door window won't even open at all before the breaker pops. My other windows are even worse, but this leads me to think that relays alone, even in addition to a new track, might not solve my problem (though would be a good conversion anyway).
This is a great idea! My door locks don't work and have very sluggish rear windows. The lock-out isnt that big of a deal for me but I have an idea for fixing it in a slightly different manner if those diodes don't work out (my fix is a little back woods if you know what I mean)
- Thread starter
- #38
Adding relays will help your door locks work better. If they don't work at all, you may need to reset your circuit breaker. See this thread for that:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/85082-fj62-door-lock-circuit-breaker-fuse-location.html
- Thread starter
- #39
There may not be a silver bullet for all window problems. I think that the power windows in the fj62 were a learning experience for Toyota.
As an additional thought, if your drivers door is also slow it could be the window channel, it could be the motor, it could be the regulator (needing lube) but it could also be the relays in the green plastic box inside the drivers door.
Another thought is the ground for the door. It might not be making good contact, in which case the drivers doors window would be slow as well as all the rest.
I'm on a mission to fix my power windows and don't intend to stop until they all work.
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I have a feeling mine is a combination of many issues. It is possible those relays could be going bad as well; I hadn't thought of that. The new window channels are a definite this summer so I'll see where that gets me. Then if that doesn't help much I'll see if the local auto electric shop can possibly rebuild the motors and maybe do something that'll give them a little extra oomph. The regulator gets lubed annually, so I know that's still good. I'll have to get that driver's door all done and see where that gets me as far as window speed so I can then use it as a benchmark for the other windows...
Got a bunch of extra relays at home too, so I'll be doing the lock switch mod ASAP upon my return.
