Failed smog, take a look at my numbers? (1 Viewer)

dmede808 said:

I'll check the sensor and save it if I can. But I think it was pretty badly mangled from the PO. He must have burnt out a cat cause the sensor (that was already just hanging out under the frame) looked melted.

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If that sensor is burnt and for some reason is telling the AI system that the cat is overheating then you'll be stuck in bypass mode.
Most of these hoses are as hard a rocks from being under the hood for 20yrs. so they'll be bitch to take off for testing. I had to order one short one ahead of time and cut the old one off when I was doing my final testing. Use a little KY jelly on the ends of the new hose if you get one it will make the reassembly really easy.

As I mentioned before, take off the bypass hose from the air cleaner and make sure there isn't any air flow comming from it...if there is you are in bypass mode and you'll have to troubleshoot from there.

The system will push air into the mainfold below 45 mph and then down to the cat above 45 mph, but either way you shouldnt have any air comming from that bypass hose sitting at idle

Get the manual out and start to get familiar w/the AI in general.
Pg 3-20 will show you a good layout of how things work.

Good luck, Bryan

Cruiserdrew said:

I agree completely with Nocal's approach. The connector is under the center console. If that sensor is good, hang on to it. They are no longer available from Toyota, and when they were, they were over $400. Even if you don't need it now, you might, so do not destroy it!!!

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DANNNNGGGG!!! I threw mine out when I did my engine swap! bummer, someone could've used it/had mine for free if I'd known...

Toadhopper said:

Use a little KY jelly on the ends of the new hose if you get one it will make the reassembly really easy.

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Hey, how'd you know I keep the KY jelly in the garage?

Ok I tested the air injection system tonight. Per the emissions manual I ran the truck at idle and checked the bypass hose. There was air bypassing to the air filter. It was kinda pulsing. When I pulled the blue VTV there was no change in the amount of air going to the bypass hose. I checked the relief valve since that had been gunked open before but it was ok (though it did have a lot of black powdery deposits in it).

Next I pulled the hose going from ABV to exhaust and plugged the vac line from VSV2 to the ABV. No air goes to exhaust (which it should).

Then I checked the deceleration fuel cut system by pinching the vacuum switch closed and racing the engine to 2000rpms. At 2000rpms air starts to pump out of the ABV to exhaust. Sop that’s ok.

I noticed that if I disconnected the vac line from VSV2 to the ABV

I disconnected what I thought was the CAT sensor but it turned out to be the seatbelt plug. I gave up after that.

While checking the ABV to exhaust line I noticed that exhaust fumes were coming back up the line towards the ABV. Is that normal or is there supposed to be check valve inline to prevent that?

dmede808 said:

Hey, how'd you know I keep the KY jelly in the garage?

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It probably looks a little wierd with greasy fingerprints all over it!

There should be a check valve in line to keep the exhaust from comming bcak up. If that check valve has been sending hot gas into the air pump it has a tendancy to burn the carbon veins, so the air pump may be toast.

I have a bunch of stuff to do tonight so i cant double check on my 60 but I'll follow up w/you as soon as I can.
In the meantime disconnect the O2 Temp sensor, its thre OTHER one!
See if that stops your bypass issue.

Next I pulled the hose going from ABV to exhaust and plugged the vac line from VSV2 to the ABV. No air goes to exhaust (which it should).

My VSV2 valve was bad, the part isn't available anymore, but there is one for an 87 Camry (I think) that will work.
you can test the VSV2 using a jumper wire, look in the emissions manual, it should tell you about how to do it.

I just wanted to say this whole thread is exactly the sort of info i've been looking for!
I haven't had a vehicle newer than 1972 for the last 11 years. I recently decided to consolidate the old junk and get something "normal". and well, I've ended up with a rusty dented 1982 FJ60...
my biggest worry is the vacuum hose smog nonsense. so all this talk is making me feel better about my recent purchase!! if it screws up I might be able to actually fix it, or at least cheat...
thanks!

linkinlocker60 said:

Accidentally spilled a few gallons of E-85 into my tank and passed smog with flying colors today......

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My father did the exact same thing with his 87 FJ60 last month, I was amazed how well it worked...

dmede808,

first i must applaud you for your efforts in trying to figure out what's going on with your truck. i know many a seasoned mechanic whose eyes glaze over when faced with the prospect of working on the emissions system on one of these things.

so based on your readings, your high HC and CO would normally indicate that you're running too rich. according to your O2 and CO2 readings however, it seems that your cat isn't performing up to par. your CO2 readings should be closer to 15 and your O2 should be very close to if not 0. in a healthy cat, it will use up all of its stored oxygen thus the O2 readings being so close to zero. your NOx readings are fine...you can assume your EGR is doing its job.

the cat temp sensor is a pretty critical part of the AIR system for it regulates the flow of the air pump air with it's primary purpose being protecting the cat from over heating. your two year old cat should not be a problem provided everything else is working as it should. the check valve you referred to is bad; exhaust should not be able to flow backwards. this was the check valve that was bad on mine last year when i had to go through this whole smog process. the valve itself is cheap but changing it can be a nightmare due to limited space to get any sort of wrench in there plus the fact that it's probably rusted solid.

you can try adding denatured alcohol to your tank, (same as ethanol, heet, etc.) and you can find this at your local hardware store. sometimes this will work but it won't if there is something else wrong with another major smog control system. since you know you have a bad check valve, i'd continue to trouble shoot your AIR system. i'd also Ohm out your cat temp sensor just to see where it stands. i believe it's a negative coefficient thermistor; the resistance goes down the hotter it gets.

my readings from last year when i gross polluted were as follows:

15mph:

CO2: 13.8 O2: 0 HC: 190 CO: 2.13 NOx: 0

25mph:

CO2: 13.4 O2: 0 HC: 205 CO: 2.74 NOx: 0

after a new AIR check valve and a properly functioning AIR system:

15mph:

CO2: 15.0 O2: 0 HC: 11 CO: 0.02 NOx: 84

25mph:

CO2: 15.1 O2: 0.2 HC: 14 CO: 0.11 NOx: 124

whatever you do, resist the temptation to just throw on a new cat and hope it passes. a new cat may get you to pass, but the there will still be an underlying cause that needs to be remedied.

keep us posted

ellington12 said:

the cat temp sensor is a pretty critical part of the AIR system for it regulates the flow of the air pump air with it's primary purpose being protecting the cat from over heating.

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I thought the purpose of the air pump was to inject a little O2 into the exhaust manifold to consume HC and CO.

I would not look to the temp sensor to pass smog in CA. The ABV won't send air directly to the cat until you hit 30- 35 MPH. The speed sensor does send this info to the computer. In CA they only test you at 15 MPH and 25 MPH which is too slow for the the ABV to divert the air directly to the cat. Look to the air pum and check valve for your problem. Is your air pump new? or has it had a melt down from a leaking power steering pump. On my 85 the carbon vanes broke into pieces and sent pieces down stream. The ABV was stuck due to a piece of the carbon vane. not to mention all the hoses and check valves had bits and pices stuck in them to. I had to R&R the whole AIR system. Blow everything out with compressed air. If you have issues with the ABV , you are able to dissassemble most of it and clean it out. I also found my pressure relief valve was blown out and I happend to have a replacement on hand in my spare parts pile. It s a long and tedious job but completely doable. Good Luck


Dynosoar

I have lots of black powdery crap in my ABV hoses and around the relife valve. When I was doing this same troubleshooting after first buying the crusier I found the relief valve stuck open from some hard black stuff. Is that the carbon vanes? What do they do?

Air pump is not new but the PO had a air pump blowout on him so I think he replaced it with this used one.

I feel air coming from the pump to the bypass, doesn't that mean its pumping ok?

What does it take to rebuild the air pump?

Also, some of my hoses need to be replaced. SOR prices are too high, anybody know what I can replace them with? It's the hose from ABV to exhaust and the ABV to relief valve.

dmede808 said:

What does it take to rebuild the air pump?

Also, some of my hoses need to be replaced. SOR prices are too high, anybody know what I can replace them with? It's the hose from ABV to exhaust and the ABV to relief valve.

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If the airpump needs a rebuild, get a reman one from Napa. About $70. They last 4-5 years.

The hoses are available from Toyota. I just bought them from Cruiserdan.

I keep reading about crusierdan but can't find any contact info. Whats his deal, he sells new OEM parts direct?

dmede808 said:

I keep reading about crusierdan but can't find any contact info. Whats his deal, he sells new OEM parts direct?

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CDan is Dan Busey of American Toyota in New Mexico
He gives us mudders 25% off list price on OEM toyota parts and best of all he really knows land cruisers. His number is 1 800 432-6668

I just bought a napa smog pump and it was 130.00 after a 40.00 core charge. You'll need a straight hose to connect it to the ABV. The old hose is most likely too brittle to reuse.The OEM hose is 50.00, plus the outlets from the napa pump are at different angles so the semi-j OEM hose wouldn't fit anyway.

Anyway, confirm operation/failure of VSV2 and check the check valves. Yes the vanes from the smog pump get caught in the ABV, wedge it open and fry the cat.

Oh and one more thing, I felt air comming out of the bypass as well, but I had stinky smells comming from the tail pipe until I swapped the air pump which leads me to beliece my old pump wasn't pumpinh enough volume

I go in tomorrow for my second try after failing 3 weeks ago.

I have the factory service manual and the engine manual. I ran through the basic carb tune up and it made a world of difference. I failed on my CO (3 something for both on the first try). It was running rich and the idle was too fast.

You'll need a tachometer hooked up.

I drilled out the plug and did the lean drop first (with intake back on per the manual). Drill out the cap carfully with a small pilot bit. Then use a large bit to twist out the cap. Don't go more than 1/16" deep or you will hit the screw and damage it. You can use a mid size bit to fit a flat head screwdriver in to bottom out the screw first before you try to twist out the cap. Once out, heat up the engine. Turn that screw (the idle mixture adjustment screw) until you can't get the engine to run any faster. Then turn the idle adjustment screw until the tack reads 690 rpm. Then turn the idle speed adjustment screw down until the tach reads 650 rpm.


Now adust the fast idle. Pull off and plug the two vacuum hoses connected to the distributor. Also pull and plug the hose going into the VCV for EVAP and the hose going into the EGR valve. With the engine still running pull the choke all the way out. The engine will rev but don't worry. Now turn the fast idle screw until the tach reads 1800rpm. If the engine revs too fast before the fast adjustment you can pull the choke out part of the way and slowly bring the rpms down until you're at 1800 with the choke all the way out. You should now be able to push the choke back in and the engine should return to 650 rpm.

That's it. That should lean out the engine, make it run and idle better, and hopfully drop the CO.

I'll find out tomorrow if this worked. Either way my truck runs a ton better!

Good luck.

true, the cat temp sensor really won't help you pass smog but it is important to have to avoid overheating the cat.

billmc,

you are correct about the smog pump's purpose. however, the air that it pumps needs to be directed to the correct location depending on speed, temp, load, cat temperature, etc. there's three possible routes it can take: to the air rail in the head, to the air cleaner, and to the downpipe that leads to the cat.

Please let us know how it comes out. I am in need of a smog
test also and was wondering if the lean drop method would cure
the prob. otherwise i will do a converter install and hope for the
best

Pulled the cat sensor plug and I'm still in bypass to the air cleaner at idle so it must be the VSV thats bad. I've applied for state funds since they offer it and will hopefully be able use that to buy the VSV, a new check valve and maybe a reman smog pump.

As for the cat temp sensor, when my shop installed the new cat two years ago they said because it was a high flow cat I didn't need to worry about overheating it as much. Not sure if I believe that, but it hasn't been a problem that I know of.