Concur
I replaced mine and it was a three wire. To test it, I had to put power on it while I used my thingamajiger to see if the whatyamacallit was putting out a doohickey. :rolleyes:
Did the WY to NC drive with a 12' tandem fully loaded and LC fully loaded. Had to be every bit of 8,000 lbs. Used 3rd gear most of the way, 9mpg overall. It made it! Needed a new fuel pump :) when I got back.....worked that sucker hard for 3 days straight! I totally recommend changing all...
It may well be the head unit. I replaced mine with an Alpine that has excellent FM sensitivity. I can pull in stations from very far away. Roughly $200.00 head unit. I recommend the upgrade if you find the antennae is working properly. It is all in the tuner from that point.
My rig had Kelly Safari MSR's on it when I purchased it. It was winter in Jackson, WY. I asked to have them replaced, as I was not happy with their performance on packed snow, especially when trying to stop. The dealer told me they are designed for this weather and to try them a little...
I had the O2 sensor problem and mine would hesitate and not gain power badly after two hours of driving. Ultimately it would stop dead and only crank. Replaced the fuel pump, as the mechanic said it wasn't getting adequate fuel pressure. Problem solved on mine. The O2 light was intermittent...
I installed the SpeedBleeders on my 80 and now bleeding and flushing are a snap and not to time consuming either. Plus, one person can do it.
I think using the pedal to bleed is very efffective and efficient.
I start at RR and work my way to the closest caliper.
Some have stated they did not...
I've come to the conclusion that a little clicking equates to just a little more vehicle character. I swapped mine side-to-side and diminished the clicking, but it is still there. As for hammering, I'm novice and used the iron pipe / slam it against the ground / make the neighbors take notice...
I have had this discussion here recently. I understand them to be 90 degrees out of phase on the front on my 92 FJ-80
I took my driveshafts to FleetPride and had the new u-joints installed and shafts balanced.
I noticed the front was now balanced in-phase when I got it back. The tech there...
Brake fluid is not related to pad wear, unless the resevoir is empty, in which case your pads are fine :D
Add fluid, if needed, to keep it between min and max. If no other symptoms, keep on trucking!
Got'er done! So far the Bilsteins are performing well. I need to try them out on some of our highways under construction before I say much more.
Thanks for the help.
Going out to do the rears now. I'm taking your advice and pulling the top mount. I agree with your choice of locations for the bushings. I did the same.
Thanks for the pics too!
Rob
I see your logic. Looks right and I think I deduced from the instructions that your way is the correct way. Thanks.
On the rear, wow! That top nut is difficult to get to. Do I assume correctly that the shock is all that comes away from the body, or am I to remove the mounting bracket...
So, I'm putting in my Bilsteins and need to know, for the front, where the metal spacer tube goes - top of shock, or bottom. My directions are not clear as to which mounting hardware goes on top or bottom. I have a type 13 and a type 6 - as the label reads:
F4-B46-1477-HO
Typ 13 / Typ 6...
I have been dropping an axle for the past two weeks to have new joints and balancing done with no problems as in continues to be my DD.
I believe the front ds is 90 degrees out-of-phase. Just researched this last week.
HFS Help! I've fallen and I can't get up.
$206.99 LP Steering Damper :eek:
I'm with Dan, calling Christo :grinpimp:
At your convenience, shoot me that shock absorber price.