Brake bleeding question...Any help would be great.

[Skillet]

I tried to bleed my brakes and, once again, followed the fsm to the letter.

Once again, I was let down...

I have one of those bottles that sits upside down in the reservoir and fills it as it drains.

Well, not knowing any better, I am happily pumping away with my vacume bleeder and is slowly sucked my reservoir dry because there are actually TWO reservoirs in there, back and front. WTF?

When the reservoir went dry I figured, I am screwed, so I followed the fsm once again and filled the reservoir with fluid, removed the brake line from the Master cylinder, pressed the brake pedal in then plugged the hole on the MC with my finger, released the pedal, and repeated 3-4 times as stated in the fsm.

Then, hooked up the brake line again. Finished the one right rear brake and closed the bleeder valve. Turned on the engine and the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor.

Is it possible that air got into the other brake lines?

Did I screw up the MC?

Something so simple should not be this hard. Why does my reservoir have two sections?

 

[IdahoDoug]

If you'll tell me WTF that thing in your avatar is, I'll give you some tips. I gotta know what that uugly thing is.

DougM

 

[Skillet]

Anything for you Mr. Idahodoug as your advice is treasured.

It is an electron microscope image of...

Drum role...

A MAGGOT'S HEAD.

Now you know what gets the job done.

Now...on with the brakes!

 

[IdahoDoug]

Ah, I can live with that - thought it was NorCalDoug's prom date.

When you get air in the MC, it's best to rebleed everything all over again in the proper sequence. The worst thing to do is bleed a rear brake first, as the air then goes the farthest and is most likely to get into the LSPV or the other rear brake line.

So. Rebleed everything as though you're starting over again. I'd simply bleed half a bottle through the RF caliper as fast as you can. Then continue with the sequence.

I think you then finish with the LSPV on the 80, right?

DougM

 

[scottm]

I suspect you'll need a big 'ol jug-o-brake fluid. You probably have allowed air into the lines, you'll need to bleed them throroughly. I've never had much luck with vacuum bleeders, but that may be a big help. Sometimes bubbles don't move well, the brake pedal seems to be more effective. Letting the reservoir run dry? I've never done that

 

[Skillet]

Ah, I can live with that - thought it was NorCalDoug's prom date.

When you get air in the MC, it's best to rebleed everything all over again in the proper sequence. The worst thing to do is bleed a rear brake first, as the air then goes the farthest and is most likely to get into the LSPV or the other rear brake line.

So. Rebleed everything as though you're starting over again. I'd simply bleed half a bottle through the RF caliper as fast as you can. Then continue with the sequence.

I think you then finish with the LSPV on the 80, right?

DougM

Never met Norcaldoug but I am LOL anyway.

I don't understand, I thought you were supposed to bleed the furthest from the MC first? Or is that only if there is NO air in the lines?

I cannot bleed anything tonight as it is pitch black, I need to do it tomorrow, will that screw things up if I wait until tomorrow? You see, I don't have a garage.

If I can wait until tomorrow, what should my course be?

Thanks for the help.

 

[Skillet]

Letting the reservoir run dry? I've never done that

So, am I to assume you HAVE done that?

I still have no idea why the lower half of the reservoir has two sections, that is what screwed me...

 

[cruiserman]

You got air in the lines when you drained the reservoir. Keep the master full of fluid, and bleed the rest of the lines. I would start with the farthest and work back to the master. Don't forget the LSPV.

 

[scottm]

Heh, more than once. And that divider wall is what got me too!

 

[Skillet]

Heh, more than once. And that divider wall is what got me too!

Damn divider wall...

 

[Skillet]

Okay, I have gotten 2 different stories.

Where do I start to bleed? Furthest or closest to the MC with air in the lines?

Also, is it okay to let it sit overnight or will it get air back into the MC?

 

[450 Cruiser]

Also, is it okay to let it sit overnight or will it get air back into the MC?

You should be OK to let it sit overnight if you seal everything back up so additional air does not creep in.

As far as where to start, I've always been told to start at the RR.

 

[IdahoDoug]

I'll go with the double recommendations on the RR. Personally, I've always done the initial bleed to the closest caliper to reduce the chance air/crud crosses orifices to the other calipers. But, whatever the 80 FSM specifies and these guys likely have looked at it more recently than I. I'll be doing my biannual bleed next week when my wifey is out of town with the kiddos.

No worries on overnight, but put the cap on. Also agree the pedal pushes fluid better IMHO than the vacuum bleeders, which I've never had good luck with even when they do work.

DougM

 

[cpg]

I have always gone with the longest line from the MC. If you emptied the MC bleed a bunch from the furthest first.

 

[Kasprzak]

I just had to bleed my brakes a couple of weeks ago due to foolishly thinking I needed to remove the front caliper to to my brake pads. I had great success with a vacuum pump from checker/krager auto parts($45) I think. Always start bleeding from the furthest brakeline. RR LR RF LF. Soft pedal goes to firm. Keep your MC full. I went through half a big bottle of fluid bleeding mine. I like bleeding with the brake pedal, but if you don't have a buddy to run the pedal while you open and close the bleeder valve best to go with a vaccum pump. Good luck.!

 

[robjam]

I installed the SpeedBleeders on my 80 and now bleeding and flushing are a snap and not to time consuming either. Plus, one person can do it.
I think using the pedal to bleed is very efffective and efficient.

I start at RR and work my way to the closest caliper.

Some have stated they did not like the SpeedBleeders, as they did not seal and therefore leaked. I have not had this problem and found their service to be very reliable.

Rob

 

[psfpilot]

...

I still have no idea why the lower half of the reservoir has two sections, that is what screwed me...

My guess is that this design is to prevent entry of air into either of the two brake circuits during acceleration (braking, gravity on a steep hillside, etc.) if the fluid level is that low.

The master cylinder is also tilted with the front higher than the rear. I assume that for the same reason posited above this is designed to prevent air entry into the MC during a maximum effort braking event.

 

[scottm]

From what I've read about speedBleeders, they're like an ordinary bleed screw with a check-valve to keep air from re-entering during the return stroke of the pedal. When you tighten them down, the inner tip seats and seals like an ordinary bleed screw. When you loosen them, they're supposed to be a one-way check valve. The trick is that the threads have to continue to seal when the thing is loosened, which is also a problem with vacuum bleeding. SpeedBleeders have a plastic stuff on the threads to keep the seal, but it apparently leaks after a few cycles of tightening and loosening. So the leak is of air re-entering the caliper during the bleeding process, that'd be frustrating. I've used grease on the threads to reduce air entering around the bleed screw during vacuum bleeding, it helps, but still isn't perfect.

 

[scottm]

The hydraulic brakes are divided into two systems, two calipers on each. Each half of the reservoir feeds one system. If one system has a leak and drains it's half of the reservoir, the other system will still have fluid. Feel safer now?

 

[GXO]

x2 for speed bleeders.