Removed the factory rack and added Gamiviti towers and Front Runner load bars
What have you done to your 100 Series this week? (42 Viewers)
- Thread starter SHUSH
- Start date
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Land Shark
SILVER Star
Yeah the bushing is something else for sure! Mine came out overall pretty easily but going back in keeping it straight and square was the real challenge.2000 LC, 313k mile. Changed oil and filter, new rear brake pads, Trail Tailor Diff drop, front diff front bushing, and new left outer tie rod (555).
I think that front diff bushing has a four letter word spec that must be met before it will press in straight.
I also can’t tell you how many different ways I’ve measured outer tie rods over the years to try to avoid a new front end alignment, but a crooked steering wheel is always the final result.
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pdot
SILVER Star
Appreciate the kind words. I was hoping it would flow with the trim and bumper color
These are the Wildpeak RT01. I've only got maybe 50 highway miles on them so far, but not any more noise than my well-aged KO2s.
Land Shark
SILVER Star
Not 100% finished (winch wiring etc) but installed...
Slee 31F tray upgrade, slee dual battery tray install, redarc BCDC installation. Went with interstate 31PMHD for main, Odyssey PC1200 AGM for secondary battery. Will eventually swap that for lithium. It was a spare sitting there and still works so didn’t want to drop more coin. Next month, will update 2ndary lights.
Very cool, thanks, I'll ch check it out!I bought the Vline VL2 directly from Grom. Here's a link.
VLine CarPlay Android Auto Infotainment System Navigation Upgrade Lexus LX 470 2003
Lexus LX 470 2003 GROM VLine VL2 Connected Car Android Infotainment System for CarPlay, Android Auto, Navigation, Google and Waze Maps, Music streaming apps, Bluetooth, Mirroring, for factory stereos ofgromaudio.com
The install was easy. Just watch a Youtube video about removing the factory head unit/screen, unplug the wiring harnesses, plug the VL2 into the head unit, plug the factor harnesses into the VL2 harnesses, and run the wiring behind the air vents and into the glove box where the VL2 will sit. I'm not the handiest or very tech savvy, and it was easy and quick.
Here's the camera I used.
I had to drill one hole in the metal panel behind the license plate (there is already a hole in the same spot in the plastic panel behind the license plate) to install it. You tap into the reverse light for power, ground it under the nut that holds the rear hatch lock cylinder, and run the wire under the trim from the cargo area to the glove box. As I mentioned, there is a delay between putting the trans in reverse and getting the image on the screen. Could be the camera, or could be the VL2.
Fuel pump R & R
Good Luck! It'll be nice to be on the other side.
Looking forward to it. I'm a mechanic and have replaced many racks. Just not on a 100. Taking the path of raising the engine instead of removing the oil housing.
I'm going to go with oem rubber on the driver side small bushings. Then install a super pro larger bushing on the passenger side.
I want to do this as PM. Have seen a video of 100 series fuel pump dying mid trail.
Did it completely fail? Or what lead you to replace the fuel pump?
Just a suggestion but you should bolt the torsion bar reinforcement bracket to the bottom of the control arm...
to my understanding that's the way it works...
Many sporadic instances of "Crank No Start" that at first would only last a day then it would fire back up...it got more and more
frequent...I actually replaced the whole Engine Room Block Assembly (Fuse and Relay box under hood) thinking that it was that
then it pooped the bed again a day after the Block Assembly install. I had the fuel pump sitting in my shed and got a wild hair to
just do the work to see if that's what it was, and it was. I'm going to replace with OEM now that I feel better about paying for it.
(paying for a seeming solution rather than just throwing parts at it)
It's optional from what I've researched. Yes most people drill the holes. I replaced my LCA with oem new parts, and didn't want to drill into them.
Fair enough!
Watching and learning 
Let me preface this by saying that these observations are from my experience…
Those lower control arm reinforcement brackets provide additional torsional strength to the OEM design lower control arm due to the huge torsional loads at the front torsion bar torque arm mounting point. They need to be firmly mounted onto the lower control arm. The optional mounting for the lower portion is to utilize either high strength fasteners OR welding in place.
Without having the lower portion of the reinforcement bracket firmly fastened to the lower control arm, you effectively have installed a spacer between the lower control arm and the front torsion bar torque arm. There would be no torsional strength benefit without the reinforcement bracket being firmly fastened on the bottom.
Easy fix.
Been dreaming of front and rear bumpers since the day I picked it up. Thanks so much @Land Shark for making it possible by passing on your bumper (he went ARB) and also for the help and good times spent Saturday in the beautiful weather. Really look forward to putting this to the test at relic run. new synthetic line to reduce the overall weight gain. Steering is a little heavier but the dobinson ims shocks are holding off the body roll.
There should be some improvement due to material strength of the bracket. But you’re 100% right that the optimal condition is bolted on the bottom as well. This will allow the bracket to change the assembly’s ‘polar moment’, which is enginerd talk for strength against bending.
Not sure why anyone would trade out the Slee for an ARB. That Slee is just about the best looking best built bumper for a 100 series. Just my opinion
