77CruiserDog
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- #361
Hose, pipe and hose clamp replacement
Builds "Falcor" the 1984 FJ60 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 77CruiserDog
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@77CruiserDog I’m over here with a mini drill-mounted flap wheel doing some exhaust and coolant pipes. Maybe I should just buy this crap.
77CruiserDog
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- #363
There are certainly merits to refurbushing items yourself. One tool I've been using a lot is a bench grinder with a brass wire wheel. It makes hardware look brand new. I'll post some pics soon.
That EGR pipe (I think) looks really nice!!
77CruiserDog
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- #364
Cleaned all the brackets and painted them.
Before:
After:
Before:
After:
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77CruiserDog
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- #365
Was never happy with the brass barb coming off my carb. The PO had a Weber carb installed and cut the nice metal fuel pump to carb line which is NLA.
I was using the contraption below which in spite of having 2 hose clamps on both the brass barb and the metal line, annoyingly leaked fuel.
I ended up with this...
I found the above adapter to the carb plus a 45 degree swivel 5/16" fuel hose outlet on Amazon and deleted the metal line all together. We'll see how it holds up but my guess is that it will be leak free.
Amazon product ASIN B07CKPPQ3C
Amazon product ASIN B07DLN2466
I was using the contraption below which in spite of having 2 hose clamps on both the brass barb and the metal line, annoyingly leaked fuel.
I ended up with this...
I found the above adapter to the carb plus a 45 degree swivel 5/16" fuel hose outlet on Amazon and deleted the metal line all together. We'll see how it holds up but my guess is that it will be leak free.
Amazon product ASIN B07CKPPQ3C
Amazon product ASIN B07DLN2466
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77CruiserDog
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- #366
The idler I installed not long ago for the smog pump delete had a noise coming from the bearing so I ordered a nicer quality bearing and replaced it.
Here is what I used TIMKEN NSK 6203-2RS 6203DDU... Amazon product ASIN B091PJ5YR9
The new bearing is noticably smoother and quieter. I'm not sure if I just had the belt too tight or what but I'll keep an eye on it.
Here is what I used TIMKEN NSK 6203-2RS 6203DDU... Amazon product ASIN B091PJ5YR9
The new bearing is noticably smoother and quieter. I'm not sure if I just had the belt too tight or what but I'll keep an eye on it.
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77CruiserDog
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- #367
Replaced idler bearing in the pulley just below the A/C compressor.
I stored the bearing in the freezer for a few days, then put the pulley in the oven at 350F and the bearing tapped right in without any drama. It spins like a brand new bearing should and I'm convinced some of the unwanted noise this engine made while running was caused by the old worn out bearing.
I cleaned that pulley and the sleeve, retainer ring and step washer (unpictured) in a vibratory tumbler with some ceramic pyramids, super clean and some non toxic rust remover. I'll be sharing more on the process in future posts. It was a learning experience but it plays well with my next project which will be zinc / copy cad plating some of the bolts/nuts as I go.
I stored the bearing in the freezer for a few days, then put the pulley in the oven at 350F and the bearing tapped right in without any drama. It spins like a brand new bearing should and I'm convinced some of the unwanted noise this engine made while running was caused by the old worn out bearing.
I cleaned that pulley and the sleeve, retainer ring and step washer (unpictured) in a vibratory tumbler with some ceramic pyramids, super clean and some non toxic rust remover. I'll be sharing more on the process in future posts. It was a learning experience but it plays well with my next project which will be zinc / copy cad plating some of the bolts/nuts as I go.
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77CruiserDog
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- #368
I changed out the mechanical advance springs to 2 blue from the MSD kit.
The advance was coming on too early before with the two lighter silver springs from MSD.
The advance was coming on too early before with the two lighter silver springs from MSD.
77CruiserDog
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- #369
I think some of the oil leak from this motor could have been from the oil cooler o-rings.
New ones plus the copper washers are on the way.
New ones plus the copper washers are on the way.
77CruiserDog
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- #370
Oil cooler cleaned, painted and new o-rings/copper washers.
Danny, that is called “project creep”.
Danny, that is called “project creep”.
Just read through your whole thread - amazing work! Wanting to do pretty much the exact resto steps you're going through, albeit a ton more rust repair. Thanks for documenting so well - helpful to add part numbers, amazon links, etc like you have. I know that takes extra time and effort over just doing the work and we appreciate it greatly!
77CruiserDog
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- #372
Powder coat fairy just stopped by…
77CruiserDog
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Thank you for the kind words! I hope to add value to this amazing forum by including some of the parts I use and where I find them or how I do a particular task. I'm constantly amazed by other more skilled people who also post their work, but I do my best with what I have and I suspect others are in a similar situation. I'll be on the lookout for your resto!! What stage is it in now?
Very early - doing all mechanicals first. Front axle is out for hub rebuild, pinion and housing seals, brake rotors, calipers, lines, backing plate eliminator, tie rod kit, etc. Huge bear on a rusty truck. Will try to post an update to my thread soon (link in signature)!
I appreciate your headlight info as well - I know many prefer the Koito housings, but I am wanting to do the Hella housings with LED H4 bulbs after your review.
77CruiserDog
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- #375
Awesome, can't wait to read your thread! I hear you on the rusty part. Rust is a tough hill to climb, whether it be in hardware or on body panels. I once bought an International Scoutt II with more rust than clean metal and I spent a chunk of my life behind a welding mask.... I didn't love it but I learned a lot! I have one spot on Falcor that needs to be cut out and a patch welded in.... after learning how to weld on that prior vehicle, a patch will be a cinch.
Yeah I was actually thinking about this today, I'm going to see if I can do a comparison of the two housings with the same bulbs. My eyes tell me that the Hellas provide a better beam pattern but the Koitos are really nice and include a hell of a harness. I have the Hellas in my 40 and the Kiotos in my 60. Something tells me I'll be able to compare them with pictures one of these days.
77CruiserDog
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- #376
So here's the post I've been waiting to share until I successfully did it.
I zinc plated my bolts using the Caswell Copy Cad kit. It was way easier than I thought it would be and the results were pretty spectacular.
I zinc plated my bolts using the Caswell Copy Cad kit. It was way easier than I thought it would be and the results were pretty spectacular.
77CruiserDog
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- #377
Was it hard? No, not at all. It's a bit more chemistry than I'm used to, but it was simple, just follow the instructions and use some common sense.
Was it worth it? Yeah for me it's perfect, I'm able to do it at my own pace and it's sort of a fun project.
I've had the kit for about a month now, I spent that time trying to talk myself in to starting the process and now that I'm doing it, it's simple and quick.
Here's some picture of my set up....
I keep the 2nd step outside since it's muratic acid and I'm not interested in the vapors causing any reactions inside my garage.
Step one after the hardware is cleaned (more on that later) is this heated degreaser that comes with the Caswell kit. Heat it to approximately 180 degrees and hang the part in it for like 5 minutes or so.
Second step, put it in the acid for a while, the instructions say for a few seconds but I'm finding that some parts need to be placed in here for a bit longer like 5 minutes or so. Its diluted so perhaps that's why. I covered it because we just got a hail storm and I was too lazy to take off the cover before the picture.
Next is the chemistry, hang it on the copper bar with copper wire and let the electricity transfer some of the zinc plates on to the hardware hanging.
In this picture I have the chain from the spare tire winch thing... more on that later too. I've found that after doing a few bolts you get the hang of how many amps to dial in the power supply to get a good zinc coating. Some items plate better depending on their shape.
Then it goes in to the yellow chromate. Depending on how dark of the yellow color you want, you leave it in longer. If you want the part to remain shiny chrome like silver, you just skip this step.
Then you let it dry for 4 hours or so.
There are other steps in between those posted above, mostly dipping in distilled water.
Just like everything else in life, prep seems to be the key. I'll illustrate what I did shortly.
Was it worth it? Yeah for me it's perfect, I'm able to do it at my own pace and it's sort of a fun project.
I've had the kit for about a month now, I spent that time trying to talk myself in to starting the process and now that I'm doing it, it's simple and quick.
Here's some picture of my set up....
I keep the 2nd step outside since it's muratic acid and I'm not interested in the vapors causing any reactions inside my garage.
Step one after the hardware is cleaned (more on that later) is this heated degreaser that comes with the Caswell kit. Heat it to approximately 180 degrees and hang the part in it for like 5 minutes or so.
Second step, put it in the acid for a while, the instructions say for a few seconds but I'm finding that some parts need to be placed in here for a bit longer like 5 minutes or so. Its diluted so perhaps that's why. I covered it because we just got a hail storm and I was too lazy to take off the cover before the picture.
Next is the chemistry, hang it on the copper bar with copper wire and let the electricity transfer some of the zinc plates on to the hardware hanging.
In this picture I have the chain from the spare tire winch thing... more on that later too. I've found that after doing a few bolts you get the hang of how many amps to dial in the power supply to get a good zinc coating. Some items plate better depending on their shape.
Then it goes in to the yellow chromate. Depending on how dark of the yellow color you want, you leave it in longer. If you want the part to remain shiny chrome like silver, you just skip this step.
Then you let it dry for 4 hours or so.
There are other steps in between those posted above, mostly dipping in distilled water.
Just like everything else in life, prep seems to be the key. I'll illustrate what I did shortly.
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77CruiserDog
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- #378
LazarusTaxa
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Man, that looks great... You're now passing me in terms of progress.
Also, you might have made the right call on sending out for CAD plating vs zinc at home (is that zinc or CAD?)... My hardware looks great, but I've found the plating is a bit "fragile".. It tends to wear off with minimal contact. For example, using an impact on a nut or bolt, where the socket contacts, the plating will wear off a bit. I've heard this is too be expected but not something I was aware of beforehand.
Also, you might have made the right call on sending out for CAD plating vs zinc at home (is that zinc or CAD?)... My hardware looks great, but I've found the plating is a bit "fragile".. It tends to wear off with minimal contact. For example, using an impact on a nut or bolt, where the socket contacts, the plating will wear off a bit. I've heard this is too be expected but not something I was aware of beforehand.
77CruiserDog
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Thanks! From what I understand the cad plating is on top of another coating, and the cad self heals in certain applications to protect the surface below it.
What I'm doing is zinc plating and then a yellow chromate on top of it to mimic the look of the cad.
I just purchased a heated ultrasonic cleaner that I'm using for many of the hardware, its working great!!
