Rear Wheel Bearing Service - Inner Race Stuck to Axle Shaft (1 Viewer)

[TheLCProject]

I am actually working to swap a locked rear passenger side axle as part of an OEM locker install but it's essentially the same process as the rear wheel bearing replacement job.

I was wondering if you all have any ideas on how to remove a stubborn wheel bearing inner race that decided to not leave the hub with the rest of the wheel bearing.

I suppose I can dremel and chisel? Any other ideas? Bearing splitter?

 

[Tres Toys]

I just got through replacing a rear axle bearing on my son's 100 a couple weeks ago. To remove the outboard inner bearing race from the axle we made a crows foot plate and used it with a prototype Toyota axle bearing puller tool for 100 series LCs that I got from a guy on Ebay named Duane Bier who has a company called MCSPECIAL, INC. out of Omaha Nebraska. The plate I made is the same concept as the crows foot plate used to pull the ABS tone ring off the axle. Attached is a picture of the crows foot plate I made and the inside dimension along with a photo of the prototype tool from Duane we used. I used some 3/8" steel for fabricating the plate which just gave enough room for the heads of the bolts from the kit to clear. Duane may be able to supply this additional crows foot plate with his tool in the future to make the job easier. Also, heating that bearing race with a propane torch just before trying to pull it off will help loosen the interference fit some. If you decide to grind or cut the race off, just be very very careful not damage the seal surface on the axle which is right behind that bearing race. I hope to get around to doing a full write up on the rear axle bearing replacement in the future. Best of Luck

 

[Tres Toys]

Here are two additional pictures showing just how we used the crows foot plate for pulling the outboard inner bearing race off in conjunction with Duane's tool and a hydraulic press. With a little pre-heat the race came off pretty easy when compared to the first part of the bearing and retainer we removed. Best of Luck

 

[I Lean]

If you want to make/ buy a tool, the above solution looks great. Otherwise, cut mostly through the race with a die grinder, smack the cut with a chisel to crack the race the rest of the way through, then remove.

 

[thebeedeegee]

Haven't seen many rear wheel bearing service threads on here. What symptoms did you have ?

 

[TheLCProject]

Haven't seen many rear wheel bearing service threads on here. What symptoms did you have ?

Technically not a wheel bearing service job but I felt that it'd be a good search term in the future. Im actually adding a rear locker.

My symptoms for doing this job were that my unlocked rear axle wouldn't lock.


Good tip @Tres Toys I'm using that same puller. Great tool.

Axle Bearing Puller Kit Toyota Land Cruiser J100 Series & Lexus LX470 1998-2007 | eBay

J100 Land Cruiser 1998-2007. Lexus LX470 1998-2007. Will fit on any of the following Toyota & Lexus vehicles Includes a 48mm bearing installation tool, pressing plate and tone ring pressing tool. Powder coated in Blue.

www.ebay.com

 

[thebeedeegee]

Technically not a wheel bearing service job but I felt that it'd be a good search term in the future. Im actually adding a rear locker.

My symptoms for doing this job were that my unlocked rear axle wouldn't lock.


Good tip @Tres Toys I'm using that same puller. Great tool.

Axle Bearing Puller Kit Toyota Land Cruiser J100 Series & Lexus LX470 1998-2007 | eBay

J100 Land Cruiser 1998-2007. Lexus LX470 1998-2007. Will fit on any of the following Toyota & Lexus vehicles Includes a 48mm bearing installation tool, pressing plate and tone ring pressing tool. Powder coated in Blue.

www.ebay.com

Haha gotcha.

 

[ramangain]

My symptoms for doing this job were that my unlocked rear axle wouldn't lock.

I like your style amigo

 

[Malleus]

If you want to make/ buy a tool, the above solution looks great. Otherwise, cut mostly through the race with a die grinder, smack the cut with a chisel to crack the race the rest of the way through, then remove.

x2

This is the standard method for removing all large axle bearings. I do like the tool, though; makes it much less likely to nick the journal with a die grinder.

Heating the bearing in a toaster oven (or hot oil) for five minutes will help installation, too. And this is one of the very few assembly jobs that actually works better on a cold day. Get an early start, when the journal is really cold from the overnight weather, pop the bearing into the oven, when it comes out, it'll drop on the journal.

 

[Tres Toys]

Just keep in mind that these are sealed bearings which do have elastomer(rubber) seals in them(at least the Toyota/Timken ones I have seen do). I am not sure what the temperature limits of the seals are, but be cautious if you decide to heat your new bearings. We actually put the bearing in the freezer to allow the outside of it to shrink some so it would go into the bearing holder on the backing plate a bit easier. It slid in with just some very minor tapping. We let it warm up to room temp and then pressed the new bearing and retainer on the axle. It does take a bit of force, but it was less than the force required to take it off. Cleaning any defects off the axle shaft where the bearing and retainer installs with some 400-600 grit sand paper and applying a very light coat of grease or oil can help ensure installing the new bearing goes smooth. The symptom we experienced prior to our bearing failure was oil on the inside of the rim and oil in the emergency brake drum. The bearing was clearly bad when we removed it.

 

[lehiguy]

Angle grinder. It's toast, just grind it down to the shaft on one side, hit it with a chisel, it will come off. I've done this several times. Put the shaft in a freezer overnight and the bearing in the oven to about 150 degrees so you don't cook the seals. Should go on without too much drama.

 

[TheLCProject]

The wheel bearing inner race has been removed as well as the seal that sits outboard of that. Noticed a decent groove where that outer oil seal sits. I can feel it with my finger. There was a little oil residue on the bottom (outside edge) of the inner race.

Any concerns? Can I polish it down at all? Let it be?

 

[Tres Toys]

It is a bit hard to tell the actual depth of the groove, but from the photo is looks more than just the typical seal burnish mark. Also, if you can feel the groove with your fingernail, then it is likely at least a couple thousandths deep. I would not recommend trying to polish it down, unless there are any sections with material raised higher than the unworn section next to it. There are some ways to build up worn surfaces on shafts and then machine them down, such as hard chroming, HVOF or sleeving, but they might end up costing near as much as a new axle shaft. One possible budget minded option could be to install the new seal in a slightly different location such that the lip of the seal rides on the unworn seal surface adjacent the groove. To help position the seal in a new location you could consider making a spacer/washer so that the seal could be installed to shoulder against it. A spacer with a thickness of about .08" might be enough to get it positioned on the unworn surface. One thing to keep in mind is that this is the outboard seal, so any oil that gets to it, will have had to go past the inboard seal and the seals on either side of the wheel bearing. However, it does provide a barrier to prevent any escaped oil from getting into the emergency brake drum area. Below are some photos with arrows depicting a potential location where a spacer for the seal could be installed. Best of luck

 

[TheLCProject]

Great photos and thank you for the great response. I decided to go with it as is. Worst case I order a new axle a long way down the road.

 

[medtro]

Has anyone used 12T press for this job? Is 20T press needed?

 

[bigredmachine]

12t should be fine, you can make some relief cuts before pressing to make it easier