Safe points to point an engine hoist on F and 2F (1 Viewer)

[Tony_Farson]

Alright, so now that the snow has finally melted and and I can see my trailer, I want to pull the F, transmission, and transfer case from my 68. I did some searches but haven't found what I'm looking for.

(I am having some dejavu right now... maybe I already posted this somewhere? Sorry).

Will any of you please share your opinions on where to bolt the chains to get the engine out of the chassis? I will be removing the front sheet metal to make it easier, I just need to know the best place to bolt the chain to the block.

One post said the head bolts, but I'd like to keep the engine intact if possible. I'll also be using these mount points to install the freshly rebuilt, assembled, and painted 2F later in April, so I don't want to crack the seal on the valve cover and head to get the engine installed.

Another post suggested using the alternator bracket bolt and intake manifold (or maybe it was exhaust manifold) bolt on the diagonal to the alternator bolt. Is this safe? I'll be exerting upward force on horizontal bolts...

Also, will you please tell me the correct thread and size bolt to use for whatever mount you recommend?

 

[mdsims]

the motors typically have lift points/hooks attahed from the factory. Are you sure your motor doesn't have them? Typically one on the front of the head, one on the rear, on opposite corners. Exact placement varies by year.

 

[mdsims]

Engine hook variations

Since you're rebuilding a motor, now is the time to source the correct hooks! This link is a good resource of the options, and Mark (guy in the link) can likely sell you what you need.

 

[Tony_Farson]

Hmm... Running to the garage...

 

[Tony_Farson]

I do not see any hooks on my F. I did find some threaded holes on the passenger side of the head, but nothing on the driver side... though they may be under the manifolds?

I can't imagine that both of those holes are for hooks... that would be an awkward pull from one side of the engine!

 

[Tony_Farson]

wow... I just noticed the title of this thread... I can't brain, I have the dumbs!

Anyway, I found this pic on another post...

It looks like the rear hook mounts to the back of the block on not to a manifold bolt? Is this correct?

 

[spotcruiser]

The rear hook uses two head bolts. I've used manifold bolt holes in the past without issue. I'm just careful about it. I typically use 1/4" or thicker steel to make something to which I can shackle chain. Trying to bolt chain to the side of the block just isn't a good deal. I also use a leveler and a 2x4 spreader to get the chains mostly vertical.

It looks like the rear hook mounts to the back of the block on not to a manifold bolt? Is this correct?

 

[mdsims]

Edited.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Use front and rear head bolt to attach to to your hoist brackets on the F motor.

 

[Tony_Farson]

Holy Moly! BTB wants over $100 for a set of hooks! That's hwy robbery...

 

[cruiserkev]

I did a 2F swap about 15 years ago and neither engine had hooks. I ended up just using head bolts that were bolted through the chains of my load leveler to support the weight of the entire drive train. Worked just fine although it is far from ideal. Go slow and adjust the load leveler as you inch it out of the cruiser.
Don't be like me though, get some help when pulling the whole drive train out. Probably weighs close to a thousand pounds and while I am a strong guy, I was sore for a week after swapping engines by myself on uneven ground (didn't have a garage back then). Good luck!

 

[Tony_Farson]

Classic Cruisers "hooked" me up with a set for $70 with 2-day shipping included. Brandon was great and very responsive. I just wish I didn't have ANOTHER delay in getting this project moving... I really want it done by my birthday in early June.

 

[mdsims]

I did a 2F swap about 15 years ago and neither engine had hooks. I ended up just using head bolts that were bolted through the chains of my load leveler to support the weight of the entire drive train. Worked just fine although it is far from ideal. Go slow and adjust the load leveler as you inch it out of the cruiser.
Don't be like me though, get some help when pulling the whole drive train out. Probably weighs close to a thousand pounds and while I am a strong guy, I was sore for a week after swapping engines by myself on uneven ground (didn't have a garage back then). Good luck!

Tell me about it. I pulled the 3FE/auto/splitcase combo out of an FJ62 by myself, first time ever pulling a motor. Little bit of a pucker watching the picker flex and seeing it all supported off one d-ring. I triple checked everything and did it safely, but that was one HEAVY lineup.

 

[kcisland]

Here is a somewhat close up shot of the lifting hook in the front showing two bolts to the head.

My rear hook was missing when I pulled the engine but I had a shop hoist to do the heavy lifting.

 

[Stubby]

Reviving an old thread, but figured I’d add my contribution. I didn’t have hooks on mine when I bought it, so I made my own. Hooked up to passenger side head bolts to counter the lean from transfer case.

3’ length of chain, and a couple of shackles. Perfect angle…lifted off the front and rear motor mounts at just about the same time.