Man-A-Fre Header / Heat on Power Steering Pump (1 Viewer)

[ibis1969]

My mechanic is working on installing the Man-A-Fre two piece, ceramic header on my '86 FJ60. He mentioned something about the front of the header being too close to the power steering pump and his concern that the ambient heat from the header having a negative effect on the pump? Has anyone ever come across this before? He's planning on wrapping that part of the header with heat resistant material, but the ceramic coating should abate the heat issue on its own, correct? Any thoughts/previous experience is appreciated.

Thanks,
-ibis1969

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, It is a very close fit there. Wrapping is extra insurance. Mike

 

[cruiser88]

Wrap or even add a bigger cooler

 

[ibis1969]

I'll post a few pics for the collective crowd in the coming days. But I've gotta say, this setup has changed the way the truck runs! I was suffering from a leaky exhaust manifold. Lots of noise and jerkiness under throttle. It's all quiet, all smooth, and completely responsive now. Absolutely thrilled with the upgrade!

 

[ibis1969]

See pics below.

My mechanic wrapped #1 tube and the power steering line in heat resistant material. I'm in CHS, SC. It gets v. hot here in the summer. Also, I sourced an intake manifold beforehand. I took the intake and the headers to a machine shop and had them equalize the flanges (10mm intake vs. ⅜" header). The machine shop milled down the 10mm flanges on the intake and matched their thicknesses to the header. Maybe a touch over kill, but the thing is really sealed well on the head now. We used an OEM exhaust gasket as well.

Still amazed with the better throttle feel this improvement has made.

-ibis1969

 

[ibis1969]

....and even more pics

 

[Rusto]

Those headers look sweet! What did they set you back, if you dont mind me asking?

Is the rest of your engine stock?

 

[Jaric00n]

So shiny ~~~

 

[jfnall]

I’d be more worried about those zip ties melting than the PS getting too hot. It’s sure gonna get hot after they melt away. Why not put a heat shield sleeve over the entire PS hose and wrap all the headers, not just a small section. I’ve run mine that way for 10 years and no problems.

 

[ibis1969]

Those headers look sweet! What did they set you back, if you dont mind me asking?

Is the rest of your engine stock?

~$700 including shipping. see link below:
Man-A-Fre Tuned Ceramic Coated Headers F and 2F Engines
according to my mechanic the two-piece allow for greater maneuverability when cinching everything up to the head.

the engine is stock except that it has been de-smogged.

 

[ibis1969]

So shiny ~~~

 

[NookShneer]

This is close to what I run on my 2F. With a desmog and 2.5" back it felt like a race car compared to before.

New headers look clean. 2x on the zip ties.

 

[OSS]

The potential heat problem with the header pipe so close to the PS reservoir might manifest after engine shut down.
Exhaust pipeing can get to 700° F or hotter until they cool down.
Get a high temperature cooking thermometer to submerge into the PS reservoir after engine shut down to check the ATF fluid temp.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Header looks good, correct fasteners & gasket, milled correct, etc.

But (there's always a but) the desmog vac routing is all wrong. The vac switch appears to be connected to BVSV vac, should go to ported vac. Canister purge VCV is connected to mani, should go to aircleaner vent. Mani should go over to dissy vent... etc.

 

[ibis1969]

Header looks good, correct fasteners & gasket, milled correct, etc.

But (there's always a but) the desmog vac routing is all wrong. The vac switch appears to be connected to BVSV vac, should go to ported vac. Canister purge VCV is connected to mani, should go to aircleaner vent. Mani should go over to dissy vent... etc.

Jim, I appreciate your comment. BTW, your carb & dissy are going great on this motor. I had the desmog done several years ago by another mechanic. It helped, but I've moved up the experience curve since then. A few years ago, I downloaded a 'How to Desmog an FJ60'. It's Version 2 / 01-May-2011. I kept it on my desktop thinking at some point I needed to 'audit' the vac routing. Your observation has confirmed that.

Is the Version 2 / 01-May-2011 the latest and greatest How to Desmog manual out there?

 

[Infinity00]

Look for the thread by @mwebfj60 desmog keeping HAC (not exact title), it includes his great pictures and the version 2 of @Borick and @FJ40Jim desmog pdf

 

[WSOPgold2012]

"Also, I sourced an intake manifold beforehand. I took the intake and the headers to a machine shop and had them equalize the flanges (10mm intake vs. ⅜" header). The machine shop milled down the 10mm flanges on the intake and matched their thicknesses to the header. Maybe a touch over kill, but the thing is really sealed well on the head now. We used an OEM exhaust gasket as well."

jus ordered this Manafrey kit...ive done an EFI conversion, am i going to need to do these steps with the milling ect as well"

thanks

 

[SteveH]

One can purchase Stainless steel zip ties from Hazard Fraught Tools: 12 in. Stainless Steel Cable Ties 25 Pk.

They are of decent, but not exquisite quality. I suspect you can find more expensive and competent ones if desired.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, the intake manifold needs milled, because it is warped.
Yes, the manifold and header ears will need machined to get them to the same thickness.

Or you could skip one or two of these steps, then complain about how the manifold gasket always leaks.

 

[Dr. John]

When I installed my MAF header, I found the intake manifold to be flat, and the flange thickness to be so close, that I had no machining done. Five years and no leaks. Of course, YMMV.