- Thread starter
- #21
What's it hurt to buy one of those refrigerant refill kits from Autozone that has the guage on it? Wouldn't I be able to just refill my system with it and also watch the guage it comes with for leaks?
AC Issue (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2002TLCyes
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #22
Yes, I've tried with full cold. Fan on High and MAX COLD on the temp setting. Didn't feel anything
The gauge will not help you find the leaks. You need to determine what the problem is before you add freon. You could always put the gauge on it and see if it is out of freon.
Then you didn't get lucky!
Go back to video, he mention a video he did to detect leaks. I'm no expert on AC, we just don't see issues on in this region. Leaks are so often found in rust belt rigs.
You may save time and money by having someone do detection and pinpoint for you. Then you can do repair and someone else evacuate system of air & moisture then fill for you. Otherwise you'll be tooling up for a one time job.
This one is empty:
Go back to video, he mention a video he did to detect leaks. I'm no expert on AC, we just don't see issues on in this region. Leaks are so often found in rust belt rigs.
You may save time and money by having someone do detection and pinpoint for you. Then you can do repair and someone else evacuate system of air & moisture then fill for you. Otherwise you'll be tooling up for a one time job.
This one is empty:
Last edited:
IF the system is not working because of a low refrigerant charge (trinary switch prevents this) and IF the leak(s) you have are not major, then you could add as much of a can as the system will take (under static pressure) and hope that it is sufficient to activate the trinary switch which would then allow the compressor clutch to engage.
^^^^^ All of this assumes there are no other issues.
At that point....you will have established several things:
1. The trinary switch is working.
2. The compressor clutch works.
3. The compressor itself works (to some degree).
4. The electrical components in the system are working.
On the other hand...IF you have a significant leak:
1. The refrigerant you introduced into the system will rush right out of it.
2. The leak(s) will need to be repaired.
3. The system will need a new desiccant bag.
4. The system will need to be pumped down.
5. The system will need to be properly charged (refrigerant weighed in).
Best to just take it to a shop and let them evaluate it.
Now...a few little tricks/tips that you DIDN' T hear from me.
You can remove the shrader valve cap from the LOW side charge port, exposing the shrader valve 'core' (looks just like an air valve core on your tire). You can CAREFULLY (and quickly) depress it for just an instant and see if you get a forceful discharge of refrigerant. DON'T get it in your eyes, DON'T let it contact your bare skin.
This would tell us whether or not you have a decent charge in the system. Of course... this releases a minute amount of refrigerant into the atmosphere (which you are not supposed to do). But lacking a set of gauges and knowing what the 'static' pressure should be, checking that way will work.
Bypassing your trinary switch (directly feeding your compressor clutch 12 volts) should activate the clutch (engine does not need to be running). This would tell you IF the clutch is physically capable of engaging (not in need of adjustment or replacement). Then with the engine running.....BRIEFLY engage the clutch to check and see if the compressor is free to turn.
But...my best advice is: Take it to a shop. Let them diagnose it. Then if you choose to do the work, we can walk you through it.
fooldall1
Handy Enthusiast
Best to bring it somewhere to leak check it. Best to find and replace any worn or broken leaking parts.
But, you could just grab one of those cheap refill cans of 134a with the guage (like 15 bucks), and fill it up. Open the hood. If the AC Compressor is engaged, you'll SEE the magnetic clutch spinning. Have someone rev the engine to 1500 RPM and fill it until it reaches 35lbs. Make sure you do this with the doors open and the front and rear on COLD/HIGH.
If it's a slow leak (like from o rings leaking over time) you could do like I did and try a can of the "red Angel" once it's low again (you must put that stuff in when it's low on pressure) and put some freon in as before. I did this 6 months ago after having to refill once a month and no more leak. AC works like a champ.
Again, if I had a lot of cash to throw at it, I would just take it to a shop and have them fix it properly. But, this has worked so far for me while I save up for a new evap core/lines/condensor/drier/etc (and labor).
If the above doesn;t work for you, then you're out less than 50 bucks, If it works... then you saved a lot until you can get it done properly- and don;t have to sweat your ass off in the process.
But, you could just grab one of those cheap refill cans of 134a with the guage (like 15 bucks), and fill it up. Open the hood. If the AC Compressor is engaged, you'll SEE the magnetic clutch spinning. Have someone rev the engine to 1500 RPM and fill it until it reaches 35lbs. Make sure you do this with the doors open and the front and rear on COLD/HIGH.
If it's a slow leak (like from o rings leaking over time) you could do like I did and try a can of the "red Angel" once it's low again (you must put that stuff in when it's low on pressure) and put some freon in as before. I did this 6 months ago after having to refill once a month and no more leak. AC works like a champ.
Again, if I had a lot of cash to throw at it, I would just take it to a shop and have them fix it properly. But, this has worked so far for me while I save up for a new evap core/lines/condensor/drier/etc (and labor).
If the above doesn;t work for you, then you're out less than 50 bucks, If it works... then you saved a lot until you can get it done properly- and don;t have to sweat your ass off in the process.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks a lot guys. Lots of great info here that will be searchable and help many in the future as well.
I will try to take it to a shop and show you my findings
I will try to take it to a shop and show you my findings
+1. At least it will show you if everything else is fine (which I suspect it is). Then there is a pretty good chance it is the rear lines, but no guarantee.
Without a visual confirmation of line problems, you don't really know where the problem is. I think I recall a small protective cover/plate over the lines right behind the passenger wheel well where there was significant pitting. The cover seems to do more harm than good as that the salt collects there and the insulating foam prevented the Krown from penetrating as well as trapping the salt.
I'm having this same issue now! (Boston here, but VERY minimal rust underneath due to an OCD owner
Previously, the AC Light would flash then clutch would disengage. Dealer recharged, found no leaks, and wanted $400 to investigate a relay underneath the fuse block in the engine bay. I hadn't had time to research everything myself so I declined that, bought a new relay (P/N 90987-02028) per 'Mud and other Lexus/Toyota site threads, and bingo, problem was solved.
Then, yesterday, same symptoms as OP. Fan blows, AC light stays on but no clutch engagement!
For New England, my truck is about as rust free as you can get so I'm doubting corroded lines but not ruling it out.
The line is covered in insulation at the bends, that insulations holds in corrosives, like salt. You will not see the corrosion without either removing the insulation or adding refrigerant with dye, which will then leak out and you will see the leak plain as day.
The lines are aluminum so you will not see rust, maybe a rough patch which will have a pin hole leak.
@Spike555 - Thanks for that. I figure the dealer would have used that method when they checked for leaks so fingers crossed that isn't the issue. I just did a more in-depth poke around under the hood at all the junctions/lines I could see there and found all to be in great shape with no signs of any corrosion at all, even on the lines that are more exposed to the elements.
Well, the inspection window looks bone dry which would indicate a leak. This is very odd because when the dealership checked it out about a month ago, they found no leaks and said all the lines look like they are in good shape and they even recharged the system as part of their diagnosis of the flashing A/C light.
Not to hijack a thread here, just updating for the greater knowledge base. Will keep everyone posted.
Not to hijack a thread here, just updating for the greater knowledge base. Will keep everyone posted.
- Thread starter
- #32
To update you guys, I got one of those AC recharge cans with the built-in guage. Cost $50 btw, kinda more than I expected to pay. BTW I checked the little glass viewport to see if there is any freon in the system and it looked bone dry. But anyway, here's what I did:
Started the car, turned the AC on and set fan speed to maximum, and temperature to MAX COLD.
Unscrewed the L port on the freon tubes under the hood, and hooked up my recharge can. Pressure said 0. I guess that may already say that I have a leak. I pressed the trigger and started transferring freon into the system. At no point did the AC compressor audibly kick on. I don't however still know where it is to confirm whether it's spinning or not. I stopped transferring then the pressure read just over 30psi. Keeping the guage on for a minute, the pressure didn't seem to go down. However, after driving for 2.5 hours and connecting the guage again, the pressure now reads ~20psi. Not sure if that's expected or if it's indicative of a leak.
What do you guys think? Where is the compressor anyway?
Started the car, turned the AC on and set fan speed to maximum, and temperature to MAX COLD.
Unscrewed the L port on the freon tubes under the hood, and hooked up my recharge can. Pressure said 0. I guess that may already say that I have a leak. I pressed the trigger and started transferring freon into the system. At no point did the AC compressor audibly kick on. I don't however still know where it is to confirm whether it's spinning or not. I stopped transferring then the pressure read just over 30psi. Keeping the guage on for a minute, the pressure didn't seem to go down. However, after driving for 2.5 hours and connecting the guage again, the pressure now reads ~20psi. Not sure if that's expected or if it's indicative of a leak.
What do you guys think? Where is the compressor anyway?
The compressor runs off of the engine belt. The L port is attached to a freon tube. That tube goes 2 ways. One way to the compressor and the other towards the firewall to the evaporator. Watch a youtube video so you can understand how the clutch engages the compressor. It sounds like you have a leak It sounds like you never got enough freon in there to start the compressor. To do this right you will need a vacuum pump. You may be better off taking it somewhere or finding someone who is knowledgeable .
Buy one of these. Then you can buy the cans of refridgerent for cheap. Those cans with the hose are a scam.
https://www.amazon.com/GBM-4-R-134a...d=1519512608&sr=8-6&keywords=a/c+gauges+hoses
Once you buy that hose buy this https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamic...d=1519512853&sr=1-15&keywords=r-134a+with+dye and you will find your leak, then you can have it fixed.
DO NOT buy stop leak, it WILL clog your a/c system.
https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamic...ie=UTF8&qid=1519513059&sr=1-6&keywords=r-134a
https://www.amazon.com/GBM-4-R-134a...d=1519512608&sr=8-6&keywords=a/c+gauges+hoses
Once you buy that hose buy this https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamic...d=1519512853&sr=1-15&keywords=r-134a+with+dye and you will find your leak, then you can have it fixed.
DO NOT buy stop leak, it WILL clog your a/c system.
https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamic...ie=UTF8&qid=1519513059&sr=1-6&keywords=r-134a
- Thread starter
- #36
Yeah. 10-4 Flintknapper. My only ac shop in my area is closed. Might be open only seasonally. I haven't seen them open in a while, and I was too itchy to get into it, so I had to try. BTW the sight glass didn't show anything even after I put the freon into my system, and I checked it when I had the AC button on, with fan blowing and all that. But I guess that could still be an indicator of not having had a vacuum before pumping into it.
I guess next stop is the AC shop. Would they even do something like the capping of the lines going to the rear? I live in NY so car repair places are notorious for selling you on the most expensive possible thing. They oftentimes just refuse to do work like that, insisting on doing the full replacement of the line, which is unnecessary for me and too expensive.
Thanks again for your help
I guess next stop is the AC shop. Would they even do something like the capping of the lines going to the rear? I live in NY so car repair places are notorious for selling you on the most expensive possible thing. They oftentimes just refuse to do work like that, insisting on doing the full replacement of the line, which is unnecessary for me and too expensive.
Thanks again for your help
This is why we do our own work.
You can easily cap the lines yourself, then have a shop refill the system.
You will need a cheap pipe cutter and the line caps, you're looking at like $25 and a hr of your time if you have no clue what you're doing.
- Thread starter
- #38
As soon as I confirm that my AC clutch and compressor work, I think I'll go that route. Which brings 2 questions:
1. What kind of pipe cutter would I be able to use since the lines are so close to everything that I won't be able to use the kind of cutter that clings onto the pipe and spins?
2. Where is a good place to cap the lines?
1. What kind of pipe cutter would I be able to use since the lines are so close to everything that I won't be able to use the kind of cutter that clings onto the pipe and spins?
2. Where is a good place to cap the lines?
https://www.amazon.com/GOCHANGE-Cut...F8&qid=1519580428&sr=1-6&keywords=Pipe+cutter
There are places where there is more space between the lines, just follow the lines until you find such a place, cut and cap there.
There are places where there is more space between the lines, just follow the lines until you find such a place, cut and cap there.
Yeah. 10-4 Flintknapper. My only ac shop in my area is closed. Might be open only seasonally.
Yes, quite possible.
I haven't seen them open in a while, and I was too itchy to get into it, so I had to try.
I understand. And we generally encourage folks here to try to do their own work (when/if in their scope of capabilities). Even if you did not yet need your A/C for 'cooling' it still needs to be operational when you use your heater (if the weather is humid) in order to defog your windows. A/C removes moisture from the cabin air as well.
BTW the sight glass didn't show anything even after I put the freon into my system, and I checked it when I had the AC button on, with fan blowing and all that.
Yes. It wouldn't since the compressor wasn't running to circulate the refrigerant and oil. The only other time you are likely to see anything in the sight-glass (compressor off) would be in sealed system (no leaks) right after you shut the unit down...as the high and low side 'equalize'. The sight-glass CAN be used as a remedial way to determine if the system is moving refrigerant properly, but IMO it should only be used if you don't have a set of gauges, can't get/borrow a set of gauges or are so far out in BFE...that you need to do the job right now and fix it correctly later.
But I guess that could still be an indicator of not having had a vacuum before pumping into it.
Not really. Under vacuum the refrigerant would be 'drawn' in. The only time you are 'pumping' it in would be at atmospheric pressure (system open) or under low static pressure (lower than the refrigerant container can supply). No matter, semantics...mostly. I'm pretty sure you have a significant leak someplace.
I guess next stop is the AC shop. Would they even do something like the capping of the lines going to the rear?
That's a good question. I suspect most shops would be hesitant to deviate from the original design of the system.
I live in NY
Yes, very sorry to hear that.
so car repair places are notorious for selling you on the most expensive possible thing.
Not uncommon, many places. Especially if they think you don't know anything about it.
They oftentimes just refuse to do work like that, insisting on doing the full replacement of the line, which is unnecessary for me and too expensive.
If you find that your rear lines are the issue and you don't require/want rear A/C I would definitely cap them off. It is something you can do yourself with a minimum of tools and know-how.
Thanks again for your help
Da Nada
^^^^^ Expand for reply
